Thoughts on replacing head gaskets?

[76k5blazerr]

My driver side head gasket leaks a little, that side of the motor around the front outer corner of the head is black with oil, sludge etc. There's no coolant in the oil but the truck does use a little coolant. What's are yalls thoughts on pulling the heads and replacing just the head gaskets, and obviously intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets... I have head gaskets in my garage that I haven't used and I could get this job done in a day I'd think. My engine is still running pretty good for what it is, I just need this truck as my daily driver till August and really would like to have this 300 $ Craigslist 350 run until then. Thoughts?

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

As much of a PIA doing head gaskets is, it will be worth it. A friend of mine with a drag truck had the same issue and blew it off for a month and now hes starting with a new block instead of doing the head gaskets in the first place. I've done it in a day before, just make sure to get real head and intake gaskets instead of the plastic junk. Using permatex also helps big time with making sure you get a good seal.

 

[diesel4me]

I've done a few head gaskets ONLY,and had good results..other engines I decided to do a "valve job" on didn't fare so well,tightening up the valves ended up making the rings blow by and I had a smoking POS I couldn't even drive without getting pulled over!..

If the engine runs decent now and isn't smoking or using oil,replacing the head gaskets shouldn't change anything expect for stopping the leakage..

I'd have the heads checked for warping at least too,also look for cracks between the valve seats ,they often fail there,and resurfaced the heads if needed..check the block for flatness too...might not be a bad idea to put new valve stem seals on while the heads are off too...they dont cost much..

 

[76k5blazerr]

Which brand head gaskets should I buy if mine are "the plastic junk" they came in a 35 dollar gasket and seal overhaul kit from jegs.

 

[ryoken]

Fel-pro

 

[76k5blazerr]

Ok, and anything else I should replace while I'm in there besides head gaskets, intake and valve cover gaskets?

 

[76k5blazerr]

Should I replace the head bolts when I do it? And do the head bolts need sealant on them before you bolt the heads in place?

 

[diesel4me]

I would say yes on both questions..

I've re-used head bolts before with no issues,but back then,they were not as readily available either,and new ones aren't costly,it's best to have then new than already stretched out and possibly weakened...some of the ones I re-used had the hex worn away from corrosion ,that made it harder to torque them properly..

Some of the head bolts pass right into the water jackets,so sealer is needed..I used Indian Head Gasket Shellac,but non-hardening Permatex works equally well,along with several others..clean out the threads in the block with a tap and blow them out good with compressed air so you'll get accurate torque readings and a good seal around the threads..

I like the "Perma-Torq" Fel-Pro head gaskets the best...others like Mccord and Victor composition gaskets I never cared for much..

 

[76k5blazerr]

So I should put sealant on all the head bolts, and do you buy head bolts by the set or just go to the hardware store and get bolts? If they are specific I should get them at like summit racing or something? Sorry for the ignorance, never done a head gasket and do not want to F anything up. Like I said this truck is my daily driver. Also, I know the pushrods and rocker arms have to come off. How do I go about getting them back in excatly as they were? Or do you have to readjust them. If so how do you go about that? I need this thing to run when I put it back together lol.

 

[diesel4me]

Head bolts can now be found at most any parts store,in fact,I think Fel-Pro has them available...other sources like Jegs or Summit also have them..they are "special" shouldered bolts,so you cant just use any old bolt..get the correct ones..I think they are less than 20 bucks for a set..

You need to use sealant on the bolt threads..otherwise coolant might seep past the threads and get into the crankcase..or leak..don't want that..

If your not going to do any valve work,like put new stem seals or reface them,etc,you could leave most of the rockers in place,just a few have to be removed, to get at the head bolts under them...that way you can get away with only having to re-adjust the valves on the ones you disturbed..

If you do remove the rockers,keep them in order,or number or mark them with something like a magic marker ,so they can be put back where they were--ditto for the push rods,keep the "up" end facing up,you can poke them thru a cardboard box to hold them in the proper order..those parts have "worn in" together and mixing them up could create excessive wear and troubles later on...I like using the cardboard box trick to keep things in order,but you can use muffin pans or similar things,just as long as you dont mix things up..

If any push rods look bent,roll them on a pane of glass,if they dont roll smoothly,they are cheap to replace..clean out the hollow centers in them with a piece of wire and some carb cleaner so oil can pass thru them correctly,that is all that lubes the rockers and valve stems..

If you do remove all the rockers you will have to re-adjust all the valves--its not a real difficult process,but can perplex a newbie...
There are several ways to do that,and most involve turning the engine over until each piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke,and then tightening the rocker arm nuts until there is no free play in the push rods,then another 1/2 a turn or so depending on the specs...you'll need to read up on that procedure ,google "chevy V8 valve adjustment" and you'll likely find several threads on how to do it..or look on Youtube..its easier to do,than explain HOW too,really..

My Motor's manual shows how to adjust all the valves by only turning the engine to two positions at TDC ,and it tells you which valves to adjust..once you get that procedure down pat,you can adjust the valves and put the valve covers on,and not have to try adjusting them after you get it running,with the covers off,which is a messy job...most newbies find adjusting the valves the hardest part of the head removal and replacement...I know it took me some time to get the procedure down pat...a lot of guys have trouble installing the distributor correctly and getting the firing order right too...