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Threw a rod last night... got me to thinking... swap!

BillyTungsten

BillyTungsten

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Allright guys, I am either really screwed or opportunity is staring me in the face... my DD is an '83 silverado c10 2wd w/ a 305. Last night it threw a rod (I think), sounds like a box of rocks and an angry herd of badgers when I start it up. Really bad.

My '73 K5 is safely tucked in the garage, where she will stay until spring. She has a stock 350 with headers and HEI.

Buddy of mine just called from work (I can't be there, my truck is broke!) and may have talked me into the following:

He brings his cherry-picker and tranny-stand and what-not...

We use my heated garage (this is Minnesota, it's about 10 degrees right now) and my tools...

Pull the 305 and put aside. Pull the 350 out of the K5 (leaving the headers, probably), and install into the C10.

This winter, I research & buy a crate engine and plunk it in the K5.

Result: The wimpy C10 comes back to life with a significant power upgrade, the K5 gets... something...

Here is the rub: I have never done a swap. I have a little $ to work with but not a lot, and I have no wheels 'cause I am NOT subjecting the K5 to MN salt.

My friend makes the whole thing sound easy... says we could do it in about a day and a half.

I need advice! Help!
 
go for it...

as long as one of you knows what you're doing, it can easily be done that fast.

last swap I was part of, two mormon missionary kids showed up and we managed to put em to work. they didn't have a clue as to what they were doing, but they were really helpful and had no problems cleaning up the bolts and incidentals... took the four of us about 4 1/2 hours, and everybody had a pretty good time with it...
 
Back when I turned wrenches for a living, I probably did several hundred Chevrolet truck V8 engine R&R's, and I can tell you right now the reality is that if you have little experiance doing an engine install, it will probably take you several days to get it completly done. I am talking engine running, and adjusted properly to drive. It took me an average of 14 to 15 book-hours to do a complete engine R&R, and I had all the tools, equipment, and little incidental parts available that you could possibly imagine. The biggest thing that always gets a rookie is installing the distributer correctly. There has been so many posts on this web-site from people crying...HELLLLP after attempting an engine install because they could not figure out how to get their distributer in correctly.
 
I say do it.

Taking your time, it should be a day project to pull the C10 motor, pull the K5 motor and install the K5 motor in the C10. The only caveat might be emissions if you have to pass them depending on what the 350 is. If you have alot of wires and vacuum tubing....a roll of masking tape and a mark-a-lot can be a huge time saver if you label everything (what it is and where it goes for reassembly).

Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Taking your time
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I agree. This is the difference between enjoying putting a new engine in your truck, or having it become your worst nighmare come true.
 
Thanks for all the input!

A couple of considerations, in no particular order:

My friend has swapped motors many times (15 or 20 he claims, so call it 10). He just finished a re-build on a chevelle and I can attest to the strength of that motor.

Regarding emissions, here in MN we no longer have to test. Recent law change.

The C10 I bought 2 years ago, had just 70,000 original miles. The truck is really in good shape if you ignore standard chevy fenderwell rust, a missing headliner, and one very busted motor. I am liking the idea of all those ponies under her hood...

I have never attempted anything like this, and am thinking I could learn a lot, and be more able to troubleshoot on the trail or wherever...

I have been looking online, and for $3k-$4k I could drop a ready-to-go, brand new, 330+ HP TBI 350 into the K5.

Regarding time. The rush will be on the C10, so I have wheels. In the meantime I will rent or borrow for a couple weeks... the engine in the K5 can take all winter...

I dunno. I admit I am a little intimidated, but it would be good for me (and both trucks) to do it.

Any further advice, either on the process or on a crate motor?

You guys rock.
 
Hop right on that :D you have nothing to lose and everything to gain, experience. Its not hard just unbolt and swap
 
15 hours? Good lord man! lol... :doah: :D

Engine swaps can be simple if the "Keep It Simple Stupid" thing is followed. If ya do it smart, you can drive your truck into the garage and have the engine out in an hour and a half. Undo the 6 small motor mount bolts, don't bother with the two big ones- if you just remove those, it's harder to get the motor to clear the mount brackets. Remove the bellhousing bolts, 6 of those too. Remove the hood. Unhook all the electrical, oil pressure sending unit, temp sending unit, power brake vacumn line, fuel, radiator hoses, heater hoses, power steering, grounds and exhaust. Remove the radiator. AC stuff if you have it. Tranny cooler lines if you have an auto. Thats all you need to remove. Don't bother with the distributor, plug wires or carb. Hook up your engine hoist and lift it out. Since you have to pull two motors, I'd figure 4 hours to get both motors pulled. Then another 4 hours maybe to install the new one. Prolly wanna have some rtv on hand. Pick up some RTV, power steering fluid and a couple gallons of anit-freeeze.

Just this last, my best friend and I pulled a motor out of my sub and stuck it back into my truggy and had it running in 6 hours or so. And we weren't rushing. Just be methodical, pay attention to detail and you'll be fine.
 
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15 hours? Good lord man! lol...
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Engine swaps can be simple if the "Keep It Simple Stupid" thing is followed. If ya do it smart, you can drive your truck into the garage and have the engine out in an hour and a half. Undo the 6 small motor mount bolts, don't bother with the two big ones- if you just remove those, it's harder to get the motor to clear the mount brackets. Remove the bellhousing bolts, 6 of those too. Remove the hood. Unhook all the electrical, oil pressure sending unit, temp sending unit, power brake vacumn line, fuel, radiator hoses, heater hoses, power steering, grounds and exhaust. Remove the radiator. AC stuff if you have it. Tranny cooler lines if you have an auto. Thats all you need to remove. Don't bother with the distributor, plug wires or carb. Hook up your engine hoist and lift it out. Since you have to pull two motors, I'd figure 4 hours to get both motors pulled. Then another 4 hours maybe to install the new one. Prolly wanna have some rtv on hand. Pick up some RTV, power steering fluid and a couple gallons of anit-freeeze.
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NO! YOU GET REAL! Yea right, don't bother pulling the distributor out...just smash it against the firewall while your at it. Dummy shade tree mechanic. I guess there is a reason you call yourself "Jethro".
 
This is exactly what happened to me. Now I have a 454! :D

If you want to get it done faster have a few buddies over (offer pizza and beer). Having several hands turning wrenches makes the work go much quicker. I did it all by myself and it took like 4 weeks.
 
That four weeks was working about 4-5 hours a day, about 5 days a week.

I am very anal and do things very precise. I don't like screwups. So that definately adds to my time.

But other things I've done got done very fast because of friends helping.
 
1-ton said:
NO! YOU GET REAL! Yea right, don't bother pulling the distributor out...just smash it against the firewall while your at it. Dummy shade tree mechanic. I guess there is a reason you call yourself "Jethro".
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dude, lay off. just because you cant accomplish it in short order like some of us can, doesnt mean its bull****. i have swapped engines with 2 buddies. pulled 2 cars in the driveway, worked just a little 2 hours, drove 2 cars back out of the driveway, with different engines in them. ehxaust manifolds were still warm when we refired them. did we break a distributor? NOPE, an engine leveler does wonderous things, along with removing the cap and replacing it with a junk one to protect the dizzy shaft. 3 fuel lines, 6 belhousing bolts, 6 exhaust bolts, 3 TC bolts, radiator and heater hoses, 2 motor mount bolts, out and back in. wiring made it a little tricky, but not too bad.

ever dumped one in between rounds at any sort of motorsports competition? did it in a derby car in about 25-30 mins (1 heat) using a tow truck boom.
 
I just finished talking with my buddy on the phone... we're gonna do it. Friday and Saturday (after Thanksgiving). Before then I will pick up RTV, Anti-freeze, steering fluid, & Exhaust manifold gaskets. I will definitely have a sharpie and some masking tape and my digital camera.

Now I am already geeked about a crate motor...

what about this one?

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/sto...-HO-with-Iron-Vortec-Heads-12496968-P5C2.aspx

Not TOO expensive, but I will have to save my pennies through the winter...

What do you guys think?
 
Check to see that both engines have the same length water pumps. Otherwise, the accessory pulleys will not line up. Also check harmonic balancer mounting distances to ensure all the pulleys will line up. I figure 2 days working by myself to do an engine swap. I don't get in a hurry and take lots of breaks. Are both motors manual tranny? If the C10 is a manual and the K5 an auto, you will probably have to drill the K5 crank for a pilot bushing and install it.
 
good luck with it...

don't attempt any speed records with it... it's not that big of a deal...


the crate motors are all pretty nice, and most of them are worth the money... check out all the parts that are included in each kit, plus the parts you'll have to supply.... sometimes the manufacturers will get pretty sketchy on what is "included" to make their prices look a little more competitive. if they're not including the intake/carb/distributor be sure to ask what they based their hp/torque settings on if you want similar power. Also make sure in that situation that the parts you put on fit your driving application.

I think I've been most impressed with the full on GM crate motors. come with pretty much everything, are super reliable, and easy to come by... a lot of times they're in stock at the chevy dealer and you don't have to pay shipping of any kind. this is a really big bonus if for some unknown reason the new motor is defective, or got damaged in shipping. paying for shipping a motor 3 times may cost ya more than the original savings over the local engine. I like the Scoggin-Dickey crates myself.
 
1-ton said:
NO! YOU GET REAL! Yea right, don't bother pulling the distributor out...just smash it against the firewall while your at it. Dummy shade tree mechanic. I guess there is a reason you call yourself "Jethro".
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Are you for real dickhead? Are you 8 years old too? :eek1:

You're so clumsy with your hoist that you have to pull the distributor to keep it off the firewall eh? :haha: These are big ass engine compartments with alot of room. If you need to pull a distributor to keep it off the firewall, then maybe you should re-evaluate yourself when you choose to call others "shade-tree mechanics." Jackass. You have NO justification what-so-ever to make assumptions about anyone on this board like you have in this post. I don't give a damn if you call yourself a "professional" or do it for money. That does NOT make you right or make you an authority on the subject. Everyones an expert these days it seems. Even the self-righteous twits with a chip on thier shoulders. :eek1: How dare you call me a hack...I don't know you- I'd never call you a hack unless I saw you being a hack. For once, I agree with beaterk20. You Mr. 1-Ton are probably the type of guy to have a tool box with 40 different phillips screwdrivers, when you only ever need 10. Keep It Simple Stupid.... :rolleyes:
 
Scoggin-Dickey crates... the one I found: $10,000+

I love my K5, but maybe not that much - besides, with 600 HP, I would be introduced to the back seat of a squad-car in about 30 minutes... a man has to know his weaknesses!

Oy!
 
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