Thrust bearing destruction and engine/trans rebuild - the solution finally - at end

[mouse]

I really don't feel as confident having machine work done around here...I guess they can check a crank.

The trans cooler lines and cooler were good to go, no blockage anywhere.

I now have to procede to clean up my spare trand/TC combo, and get the seals, fluid, new TC, etc to have it ready to go in.

I'll be in the doghouse for a bit whenever the wife sees how much this is setting me back!

 

[mouse]

Trans is at a shop getting rebuilt. Machine shop got my credit card today. New eagle crank (its very nice), bearings, gaskets, head bolts, etc.

Hopefully this weekend I'll have the engine together and when I get the trans back next week, I can start the install.

 

[mouse]

Got the new crank installed, and went to install the oil pump. It felt a little weird, so I pulled it apart. I guess it digested part of the lift that was destroyed because there were some grooves in the impellers and the top of the one shaft. It also binds every once in a while...out goes another bad part.

The parts guy is liking me this week.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Never reuse the heart of the engine, especially after having some internal damage. Oil pumps are cheap and if it fails so does the rest of your engine.

 

[diesel4me]

agreed!..

I put a new oil pump in my 305 in the 79 C10 when I put it in..along with a steel driveshaft drive collar for it instead of the wimpy nylon sleeve used originally,and a new screen pickup tube assembly...I'd taken the rusted oil pan off,and saw it needed a timing chain bad--nylon cam gear was down to aluminum!--the old pump had a tight spot in it..
....I took the cover off the oem oil pump, and saw a mushed timing gear nylon tooth in the gears..since this motor had 45-60 psi even with its original pump,I wanted to keep it that way..could have been cheap and just cleaned it out..but for 12.99 at AutoZone for a new stock Melling pump,and 5 bucks for a drive collar,I feel it was well worth it..

Motor also got a new oil pan,gasket,timing gears and chain,all came to 50-60 bucks total....motor has great oil pressure,60 psi at any speed past idle with 10-30 oil..

 

[mouse]

New high-volume melling and steel drive collar installed yesterday.

Checked the new crank thrust last night, comes in at 3 thousands...much better than the 40 the old one was at. I had to pry pretty hard to get it to move, but I probably should have checked before I installed the rods...

I'm hoping to finish assembling today and get it painted. Then Tuesday the trans should be ready, and I can start putting everything in.

 

[4X4HIGH]

.003" is a little tight, ideal is .005-.008"

 

[mouse]

.003" is a little tight, ideal is .005-.008"

My manual shows .002 - .006 as the limits.

 

[FWP]

My manual shows .002 - .006 as the limits.

This is a great thread. to the top , thanks for all the info guys! I had no idea about the balooning tq converter issue with the 400's, among other things brought up here. Keep us updated mouse

 

[mouse]

I would guess that any thrust bearing damage with an automatic is fairly rare. I really feel that my trans is a good unit, as is the torque converter. Still, after investing in this semi-engine rebuild, I got my spare trans rebuilt and bought a new TC.

I'm itching to go out wheeling before gas prices get too high. I should have it back together in the next week or so.

 

[mouse]

Update. Engine assembly is complete. Finished over the weekend. New paint makes it look better too. Note, this pic is before the pan/paint etc. Notice a tiny bit of rust on the new timing cover. I sanded it off before paint. I better snap some pics of the clean engine before it goes in!

The new 12-point head bolts I used are sweet. They are super easy to get at between the valve springs as they are only a 1/2 inch size versus the 5/8 that are stock.

I bought a new pan gasket - those one-piece felpros are the best.

 

[mouse]

Called the trans guy on Monday to request a shift kit in the trans. He tells me "its too late." Then states, "your transmission is finished and I already put a heavy duty shift kit in it. He told me to buy a new dipstick tube from the dealer to work with the "tophat" seal he installed.

I thought the tube would be $50ish...you know how stealership prices are. When the parts guy told me on the phone it was $14.80, and they have one, I had to ask him to repeat it! Hopefully this works as good as he claims for sealing ip the dipstick tube.

Then Monday the long process of cleaning everything started. My spare transfer case seems a bit tighter, but was severely low on oil. I bought all new seals to install this week. I will have to wait to remove the old output yokes until its up in the truck. I can't manage enough leverage to break them loose on the floor, even with the impact. And I need to install the HAD flange too.

I had to buy a 1 5/16 socket for the rear output yoke. Of course that was only available in a 3/4 inch drive. Thank goodness for adapters. That thing is big!

 

[gmcburb1965]

This is a great thread! Sucks about the lifter; I hear that sometimes if the cam hole is off center in the block it can cause a lifter to not spin very well. Did you notice if the hole was dead center on your block?

What was that motor in the background?

 

[mouse]

Trans and TC are back joined together after a week or so apart. I think they missed each other. I pulled the transfer case away from the transmission and it started to leak oil....

Finally got the rear output seal changed and the drive flange back on. I just have the front output seal to go and I can put the trans back in the blazer.

 

[mouse]

This is a great thread! Sucks about the lifter; I hear that sometimes if the cam hole is off center in the block it can cause a lifter to not spin very well. Did you notice if the hole was dead center on your block?

What was that motor in the background?

You need that engine...go back to a chevy engine in your sub. That 400 SBC would be easier to convert to fuel injection, and you can buy off the shelf headers for it. (And I can find a new home for that wimpy caddy engine!)

The cam bores looked fine to me, as far as being lined up correctly, but I didn't used anything to measure it other than my calibrated eye!

 

[mouse]

After 45 minutes of run time (no trans) the new eagle crank had almost eaten through the new thrust bearing. So much for the converter ballooning and causing the problem.

Off to a new machinist. He asked if the thrust bearing cap had the locating dowel in it. Sure enough it did. With the lower cap on I could squeeze out 1 or 2 thous clearance by really pulling on the crank. Without the cap the crank moved easily and had 5 thous clearance.

An hour or more of drilling, vide-gripping, and chiseling, I finally removed the dowel. With another new thrust bearing installed (upper and lower) I could now get a consistent 4.5 thous thrust play.

What a small piece to make a big problem...