Tie Rod clearance issues

[brian052484]

I was hoping that someone might be able to point me in the right direction, or give me some advice on what to do!

Im running a 10b front axle, with sky's crossover/hi-steer kit.
I got everything installed fine, but I ran into problems with clearance between the tie rod and the drag link. I am running 52" springs up front, so the axle is moved forward slightly, making the tie rod run directly under the drag link where it connects to the pitman arm. That doesn't allow for much flex

I called Sky, and they told me that it's common to move the steering box forward (and down) for this application. That doesn't seem like a reasonable alternative, as the steering box doesn't mount flush against the frame (flat, I mean... it has curves to match the box), and as I have already welded on my ORD frame reinforcement plates.

So, for the time being, I moved my tie rod back to the original location. But of course, ran into more problems: the tie rod rubs against the leaf springs, because it mounts on top of the knuckle's TRE hole, rather than the bottom where it was on the original knuckles. Can I just add a shim under the springs that's 1/4-1/2" thick, with a slight angle, to give me more clearance? That seems the easiest solution, for the time being.

Any ideas? Sorry for the ridiculously long post.

 

[gmc4cw]

does your draglink have a bend in it? I have seen guys flip their draglink on its side so that the bend goes towards the front instead of down. that way it clears the tierod. PM vtblazer, he runs his that way, maybe he can send you a pic.

yes you can shim the axle. it will gain you clearance for the tierod in the stock location and help your pinion angle depending on how much lift you have. are they stock 52's or lifted?

Or you could get some reverse steering arms and run the tierod in the back. but you already but sky's arms. so thats probably out.

 

[brian052484]

I've never seen reverse arms for 44s, just 60s. I might have to look into that! Sky is usually really good about returning parts, etc.

My drag link does have a bend in it, but... the tie rod runs directly underneath the TRE of the drag link, right where it attaches to the pitman. I've got a pic of it at home, I'll have to post it later.

My front 52s are stock, not lifted. I think they gave me 3.5" of lift, or something close to that. How much angle can you put into shims before you screw up your steering? (caster?) It seems like i could do very short shims, but give them an angle to help rotate the Tie rod away from the springs.

 

[brian052484]

well here's my shim idea:

take two 1/4" thick plates (since i have lots of it laying around), weld them together on top of each other, grind a straight angle so that one side is only 1/4" thick, and the other is still 1/2" thick. This will give me just under 3 degrees angle on my shim, which should put the top of my tie rod 1.5 inches below the leaf (If I still remember my geometry correctly). here's a pic:

 

[gmc4cw]

do you need the angle? because a cut down overload/zero rate/ or a straight piece of the 1/4 plate you have would give you clearance.

but if you need the angle and are lazy like me I would just buy shims from jkwoffroad.

http://jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php

 

[brian052484]

Well, you are correct... 1/4" or 1/2" flat plate would give me clearance, but I'm worried about when the suspension compresses on one side, and the spring flattens out or even arcs negatively (if that's possible with these springs), then it will bend the tie rod.
This solution should give me just about an inch between the tie rod and spring, which oughta be plenty.

Or am I just completely wrong?

Oh and... I'm feeling pretty motivated about it, not wanting to pay $40 for shims and having to wait 5 days for them, when I could probably have the whole project done in 2 evenings

 

[gmc4cw]

Or am I just completely wrong?

Oh and... I'm feeling pretty motivated about it, not wanting to pay $40 for shims and having to wait 5 days for them, when I could probably have the whole project done in 2 evenings

the 3 degree shims are only $30. and the last time I ordered from Jkwofforad I had my parts 2 days afterwards. You are right that shims will give you more room. I would only buy them because for $30 it would save me a few hours and they would be one piece. If you have easy access to a mill then getting the angle cut is nothing. But you mentioned earlier that you were going to grind the angle in. thats sucks.

 

[brian052484]

haha yes, grinding an angle might suck, but it won't take too much time. 1/4" isn't all that much when you put a little elbow grease into it! My motto is, build it don't buy it

 

[brian052484]

Dropped the axle and made my shims this afternoon after work. They came out pretty nice, for the little time spent on them. I welded them on and lifted the axle back up to the leaves, and I've got just a hair over 1" now between the tie rod and bottom leaf. I'll take some pics in the morning and post em up!

Oh and... now 2 of my U-bolts aren't long enough. Anyone know where I can get longer ones in singles, rather than a whole kit?

 

[brian052484]

I should have gotten a pic from straigh on, but oh well.