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Tie-Rod damage. Need help

Mikey von

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Burney, CA
Some idiot tow truck driver did damaged my tie-rod on my '89 burb (taking him to smalls claims court). It is currently down with a head gasket problem, but I would like to get this fixed so I can easily roll it around and into my garage.

I do not have a lot of money, but also do not mind investing in my burb as I plan on it being my DD for a long time. Right now it has the stock 10 bolt front and 35's. I probably will not go much bigger as it is tows and works. It does see a lot of 4x4 action, but mostly forest trails, mud, and snow.

Here are a few pics of the damage;

miketruck5.jpg


mikestruck4-1.jpg


How should I proceed? Is this a pretty easy fix? I see there a few aftermarket options.
 
Get a straight one from a junkyard or somebody that is parting one out nearby. Then straighten the bent one for a trail spare. :waytogo:

Many moons ago a tow truck driver tried pulling my wife's '88 Mercury Sable up on his flatbed by the plastic valence under the front bumper. Needless to say the plastic disintegrated before the car even thought about moving. Idiots are everywhere. :(

BTW, if you have a Taurus/Sable - you'll be seeing a lot of time on the back of a tow truck. :doah:
 
Maybe the best thing to do would be to just buy a new one. kindof a kick in the sack but, in the end the d-bag towtruck driver should get the bill for it. maybe it could have been time for a new one anyways?
 
Maybe the best thing to do would be to just buy a new one. kindof a kick in the sack but, in the end the d-bag towtruck driver should get the bill for it. maybe it could have been time for a new one anyways?

agreed. So what do I look for when buying one? Do i need to get new tie rod ends also?
 
I would try to find a good name brand one from the parts store, and get the tie rod end as well, I dont see why the adjusting sleeve would need to be replaced unless you want to keep the entire used assembly for a spare.
 
TRE's are better for a street biased truck...they'll last longer. Cross over is cool, but it adds up quickly. With a 10 bolt or D44 you'll need a flat top or aftermarket knuckle for the passenger side, plus the tie rod, Drag link, TRE's, DLE's, 2WD steering box, and passenger side steering arm...quite a bit more cash than just upgrading the bent Tie Rod you currently have.

Unless the tow truck driver is feeling horrible guilt and willing to throw money at you...;)

Rene
 
It should be really easy to find another 10 bolt tie rod with ends, I tried to sell my front axle for $40 for almost 6 months before someone finally came and got it.

There are TONS and TONS of 10 bolts out there and they aren't worth anything, which is nice if you have to repair or replace stuff on them.
 
It shouldn't be too hard to get a used one as Chris said above. If you do want a new one, I'd get a stronger one from ORD or someplace. As long as you aren't going high steer, you can use the same tie rod if you choose to go crossover later.
 
I got the ORD with ends and it is beefy! Came to about $175 or so with shipping. I think going beefier is always better. Either that or go to a junk yard and get a stock one again.
 
I plan on getting some with ends from ORD. 1.25" or 1.5" is the question now. I run 35's and probably always will with this truck.
 
Is it possible to just straighten out the existing TR. If so, what is a good method? 20 ton press? BFH?
 
Just put it in a vise and pull on it. :dunno: I use a BFH for pretty much everything, but I wouldn't use it for that. :D If you do straighten it - I would only use it as a trail spare.
 

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