Tie Rod End Help...

[broncoman6524]

I bought a WFO crossover kit, spring-less cap arms and upon arrival my TRE's had play. Not enough that shaking the tires caused movement, but while steering you could see the "shaft" move up and down inside the TRE.

I ordered a set of MOOG drag-link ends (82 K30 was vehicle chose), thinking that since they use "stock" D60 TRE they'll crossover.. one side does however the other is considerably longer. I attempted to thread them in enough to make it work in an effort to use readily available parts, but I made my tube too long.

So, The part number for the correct sized TRE is ES2027L, in theory I need a ES2027R for the other side. Yet I can't find a MOOG brand..

Suggestions? I'd really prefer to keep the MOOG brand, and not have to order another (crap) TRE from WFO..

Research has shown that this is the specs I need, however I need a right hand thread.
ES2027L .875x18tpi 2.50” .690 .791 x .772 6.50

I'm half tempted to cut my link, order another insert and run the longer factory draglink end.

 

[FastMaxx]

First of all we need to establish the difference between a drag link end vs a tie rod end. The part numbers you are referring to are drag link ends. Are you making a drag-link that goes between the steering box and the knuckle or a tie rod that ties the two knuckles together?

 

[owenst7]

ES2026R - RH thread DLE for K5, Sub, K10-K30; 7/8"-18tpi
ES2027L - LH thread DLE for K5, Sub, K10-K30; 7/8"-18tpi

ES2010L/R - L/RH threaded TREs for Dodge W-series trucks; 7/8"-18tpi
Same taper/min/maj diam. as a GM TRE. This is commonly used on aftermarket tie rods and is nearly identical to ES2234R, but also has a LH thread counterpart

ES2234R - RH thread TRE for K5, Sub, K10-K20; 7/8"-18tpi; passenger side

ES2233L - LH thread TRE for K5, Sub, K10-K20; 7/8"-18tpi; drivers side
This has a longer shank with a hole for the steering stabilizer. Many aftermarket and homemade inverted-t systems use this to attach the lower draglink end to.

Vendors are absolutely fu**ing retarded about this and advertise ES2234R, ES2233L, and ES2010L/R as "GM 1-ton Tie Rod Ends!". Those are absolutely NOT from a K30, as you have recently discovered. K30s came with a solid 1" OD bar about 50" long for the passenger side TRE, and a 1"-18tpi (might be off on the thread count) drivers side TRE. The tapered stud that actually pins in to the knuckle is the same dimensions between the K30 TREs, ES2234R, ES2233L, and ES2010L/R, so if you were building a tie rod to work with unmodified stock knuckles, you could in that sense use any of those.

I personally run ES2234R on both side of my tie rod (I have hydro assist, so I have to remove a TRE to adjust toe no matter what). ES2010L/R would work just as well, but in my experience, are not as commonly stocked at parts stores as the GM ends (hence my choice to run ES2234R). My drag link uses ES2026R and ES2027L, which are the stock drag link ends for all 4x4 fullsize GM square-bodies, including K30s. BTW, the taper (1.5 inch/ft, which is close, but NOT the same as the Snap-On reamer) is the same between GM DLEs and TREs, but the diameters of the DLEs are bigger (essentially, the reamer is run deeper).

Run DLEs on your drag link. They are a different style of joint capable of more angle than a TRE. ES2027L and ES2026R are slightly different in length, about an inch or so IIRC.

 

[diesel4me]

I'm going by memory but I thought the draglink ends were ES2026R and ES2027L ??...

 

[owenst7]

I'm going by memory but I thought the draglink ends were ES2026R and ES2027L ??...

Too slow!

 

[broncoman6524]

My apologies.. Any time I said TRE I'm still referring to my drag link ends.

This is 100% on my draglink, not the tierod

I think my best bet as I thought last night it to order another sleeve, cut my current draglink down another 2.5" and weld it in. This being able to use the pair of stock K30 drag link ends.

 

[sweetk30]

if me the first thing I would do is call up the original place of purchase and complain about the crappy quality parts that were shipped to you .

way to much china crap being sold these days .

I had a guy give me 4 ball joints to install when I was doing his lift kit . went and pressed in 2 on left side . installed knuckle and hand tightened the upper b/j nut with the wrench and RIPPED THE THREADS OFFTHE B/J SHAFT

I am very specific if at all possible on were I get my parts from on brakes / steering / suspension these days .

 

[Stomis]

Call WFO. Theyre awesome guys. Maybe they got a bad batch of parts and need to be warned before they ship more...

 

[diesel4me]

Too slow!

Yeah,I was typing when your post was being posted I guess-it wasn't there when I started typing!..

Never realized so many different tie rod ends were useable on these trucks..good to know there are other options for custom applications..