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tie rod end inserts

metalneverdies

metalneverdies

1/2 ton status
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So the D44 knuckles I bought have messed up tie rod end tapers. Ones is wallowed visibly more the other. I want to put them on my 87 for cross over steering.

I don't want to flip my tie rod. Has any one used the tie rod taper sleeve kits like these?

www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=949

I would prefer to stay with my half ton tie rod ends so I can keep my steering damper. Any advice on what to order?
 
I have to ask. If its just a drill bit and sleeve difference between running over or under knuckle tie rod, why even bother buying old style tie rods and all that. Has to be more expensive than this route.

Do they cause looseness or anything?
 
Stomis said:
I never understood why anyone would keep the tierod mounting from the bottom...
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I already need to fix the holes, so I want to keep mine on the bottom because I don't want to purchase an old style tie rod. Also want to keep my factory steering damper setup.

The tie rod sits like 3 inches put from the axle. I would rather bump it than my axle on something.
 
metalneverdies said:
I already need to fix the holes, so I want to keep mine on the bottom because I don't want to purchase an old style tie rod. Also want to keep my factory steering damper setup.

The tie rod sits like 3 inches put from the axle. I would rather bump it than my axle on something.
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I dont understand what kind of tie rod you have has to do with it? And bumping the tie rod over the axle is ass backwards thinking. You dont bump a tie rod, you bend it and then its ruined.
 
if you run a tierod on top, normally you end up with the bent style ends to clear the leaf springs. I had this same issue. It took a zero rate to clear my ORD HD tierod.

Just drill out the hole, drop the insert in (not sure if welding is needed), and put it back together. Be happy :D
 
K85 Octane said:
Just drill out the hole, drop the insert in (not sure if welding is needed), and put it back together. Be happy :D
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Yes if you're using an insert like the one originally posted you need to weld it. There's no way joe blow at home with a drill bit is going to get that tight of a fit on the bushing so if you don't weld it in place it'll wiggle around in the hole and wear out fast.



That being said I'd be tempted to run some type of aftermarket rod end (take your pick there's a bunch out there) if I was in this situation and the tapers in my knuckles were shot. Then you can just drill the hole out and be done. Just something else to think about.
 
You're talking a Heim joint or something? That's an option though I might be more inclined to run the insert just to keep it a TRE.

Not sure how well that drilling would go over either. Hmmm, I guess welding would be better, though it's cast isn't it? Might look into someone drilling for you.
 
K85 Octane said:
You're talking a Heim joint or something? That's an option though I might be more inclined to run the insert just to keep it a TRE.

Not sure how well that drilling would go over either. Hmmm, I guess welding would be better, though it's cast isn't it? Might look into someone drilling for you.
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Yeah for a stock kinda truck I'd say stick to the TRE's so it's off the shelf stuff but I'm just saying in general if a guy has a knuckle with a messed up taper it's surely a proven and reliable route to go with an aftermarket joint (yes like you said a heim) which uses a bolt.

The knuckles are cast steel. Welding and drilling them isn't a problem. Pre-heat, weld, cool slowly and it's fine.
 
Weld top and bottom? What about the small gap (split if you will) in the adaptor?

Also, wouldn't the bolt for the heims cause issues with rounding or wallowing out the mounting holes?
 
weld were the lip is. You wouldn't want the weld on the nut side, just gets in the way. And yes, it is possible the bolt could do the same thing over time.
 
metalneverdies said:
Weld top and bottom? What about the small gap (split if you will) in the adaptor?

Also, wouldn't the bolt for the heims cause issues with rounding or wallowing out the mounting holes?
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I would if the sleeve is thick enough wall. I haven't seen one of those in person and haven't really looked into them.
I sleeve parts quite often at work and if it's in a position that makes it possible I always weld both sides of a bushing in place. Obviously "V" it out really well so you can grind it flat and not grind all of your weld off. Like I said though these little inserts might be really thin wall that makes doing that impossible.

Everything wears out eventually but if sucked down tight I don't see a guy having a problem with wearing out a straight hole with the bolt. If you have access to one you could drill and use a straight reamer to make sure it's as tight a fit as possible on the bolt.

I'm really just talking out loud here and giving suggestions on what you guys were chatting about. If it was me I'd be tempted to find another set of knuckles or repair the taper in the ones you have.
 
Avery4jc said:
I would if the sleeve is thick enough wall. I haven't seen one of those in person and haven't really looked into them.
I sleeve parts quite often at work and if it's in a position that makes it possible I always weld both sides of a bushing in place. Obviously "V" it out really well so you can grind it flat and not grind all of your weld off. Like I said though these little inserts might be really thin wall that makes doing that impossible.

Everything wears out eventually but if sucked down tight I don't see a guy having a problem with wearing out a straight hole with the bolt. If you have access to one you could drill and use a straight reamer to make sure it's as tight a fit as possible on the bolt.

I'm really just talking out loud here and giving suggestions on what you guys were chatting about. If it was me I'd be tempted to find another set of knuckles or repair the taper in the ones you have.
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Seems like the ford and jeep guys really like the sleeves. I guess I will go that route.
 
I have used those types of sleeves a ton. Alot in Jeep products.

Weld the top trim the bottom till flush bolt on and be done.

Super easy.
 
blazinzuk said:
I have used those types of sleeves a ton. Alot in Jeep products.

Weld the top trim the bottom till flush bolt on and be done.

Super easy.
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What kind of drill bit did you use?

Worth paying a machine shop to drill it out? I already will be having them machine and tap for cross-over
 
metalneverdies said:
What kind of drill bit did you use?

Worth paying a machine shop to drill it out? I already will be having them machine and tap for cross-over
Click to expand...

I doubt they would charge much more to drill em out.

I used a 1" drill bit pretty simple. I have done some in my drill press and some on the rig. Drill press is obviously easier to do
 
They do sell the split sleeves similar to the one's that go on the steering arm, no welding required. Take it to a machine shop (15 bucks) to drill a 7/8 hole drop it in and be done with it. Hell buy two and take both knuckles and get both drilled then drop your tie rods in from the top.
 
I feel obligated to post because I have been corrected on the subject.

The 1 ton TRE is not the same size as the 1/2 ton TRE. The taper is the same angle but the 1 ton TRE is bigger.

There is a tool 'The GM 1 ton Tie Rod End Reamer part number PPM-4011' that can be used to ream out both 1/2 ton and 1 ton TRE's as the angle of the taper is the same.

I wouldn't drill out the hole, I would ream it.


I'm don't know if we could ream the hole in the 1/2 ton steering arms from the top and use a 1 ton TRE but I thought about it.
 
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