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Tie Rod End Question..

k5 krawler 50

k5 krawler 50

1/2 ton status
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Jan 26, 2004
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Gardnerville, NV
I have been thinking about building my own drag link and tie rods because my dad can get some tubing and some stock for next to nothing. He also has the right size tap to accomodate for the right hand thread tie rod end. However, we dont have a left hand thread tap to accomodate for the left hand tie rod end. My question is, would it be a bad idea to run two right hand tie rod ends on a tie rod..?? I appreciate all the time and help. Thanks.
 
Ok.. I see now.. Thanks I appreciate the help.. Hopefully we can find some one in town who has a left handed tap that big.. Thanks for all the help.
 
Good one Mr. Smith :)

FWIW, run both R. hand threads, It will save quite a few dollars. How often will you be adjusting anything, really?
 
That makes sense.. now.. my next question, i was wondering if it would be a bad idea to run a piece of solid stock as a tie rod? My diff cover will only allow me to run a max dia of 1.25" for the tie rod, and i've read that hydro rams bend 1.25 dia .250 wall tubing, thus my though of running solid stock and milling the ends out. Would this be a bad idea, do you think running a regular piece of tube would be all right..?? Thanks again.. all help is appreciated..
 
Solid bar stock will bend long before a piece of DOM tubing. What diff cover are you running that won't allow you to run anything larger than 1.25" diameter? I'm running a 1.5" diameter with a ruff stuff specialties cover and it clears no problem.
 
I'm running the GLO Cover.. the cover is not really the problem.. its were the fill plug is located..here is a pic to show what i'm talking about.. Do you think 1.25" dom tubing would bend with a 2" ram? I guess i could also grind down the drain plug area on the cover, but that would be a last resort deal..
2073856_31_full.jpg
 
I highly doubt you'll bend a 1.25" diameter DOM tie rod even with a hydro ram.
 
Another way to deal with the RH only threads thing is to use threads of different pitches.
An example would be to tap a piece of bar stock for a TRE, then thread the OD of the barstock in a larger thread of a different pitch. Thread the tie rod on one end to accept this larger thread. This works best when one pitch is NC and the other is NF to get the greatest difference in pitches.

To adjust you loosen the jam nut on the TRE and the jam nut on the bar stock. Turn the bar stock to adjust.
 
What is that going to accomplish? If they are both RH threads the tie rod WILL need to be removed on one end to adjust. If you have RH threads on each end even with one being male and the other end female the ends will both move in the same direction when the tie rod is turned. :crazy:
 
The key is that the thread counts can not be the same and the further apart they are the better this works.

What happens is that the difference in pitch means that there is a relative movement. Say one turn of the bar stock moves it into the tie rod .100", but the fine pitch of the TRE only moves the TRE into the bar stock .060" netting a length change of .040" for one revolution of the bar stock.

As you can see, the further apart the pitches are the greater the length will change in one revolution.
 
I see what you're saying now. They're both going to move in the same direction but one will move farther than the other. It would work that way but that also means having an odd ball part that if it were to break might be harder to find.
 
That is a downside for sure. Would be up to the person making it to Engineer it so that it's not the weak link. I don't think that would be too hard, but engineering the link tube itself to not be the next weak link may not be so easy. All depends on the diameters involved.
 
Solid rod the same diameter as DOM will be stiffer and stronger. The DOM will have a higher stiffness to weight ratio though. So a solid 1.5in bar will have higher stiffness and strength than your 1.5in DOM tube, but much heavier.

4X4HIGH said:
Solid bar stock will bend long before a piece of DOM tubing. What diff cover are you running that won't allow you to run anything larger than 1.25" diameter? I'm running a 1.5" diameter with a ruff stuff specialties cover and it clears no problem.
Click to expand...
 
loafer said:
Solid rod the same diameter as DOM will be stiffer and stronger. The DOM will have a higher stiffness to weight ratio though. So a solid 1.5in bar will have higher stiffness and strength than your 1.5in DOM tube, but much heavier.
Click to expand...
The general Rule of Thumb is that the middle third of a solid bar does nothing for bending strength and adds weight. So a 1.5" tube w/ 1/2" walls has very close to the same bending strength as 1.5" solid bar.
 
What's wrong with tube inserts. Sky manufacturing, as well as others have them rht and lht and come with jam nuts.
 
tube inserts are fine too.. i was just looking at some other options.. I mean.. i have the tap for the rh tie rods.. might as well save a little money and use what tools i have..i guess..but i dont see anything wrong with the tube inserts..
 
onetonbb74 said:
What's wrong with tube inserts. Sky manufacturing, as well as others have them rht and lht and come with jam nuts.
Click to expand...
I'm not fond of the two more welds in the steering that they cause to exist. I'd rather size the tube so that I can tap it directly and have a thicker walled tube. Were this al inkage part for a road racer I'd feel much differently about it.
 
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