Tie Rod End removal tools

[Blue85]

What have you had success with for pulling the TRE off of the tie rod or DLE off the drag link? I'm not talking about a puller or pickle fork to get the stud out of the steering arm, pitman arm, etc. I'm taking about threading it out after it's separated. They make a large socket with a slot in it for the stud to pass through. Will these mess up the stud if you hammer it with an impact?

I have a drag link end super frozen into the drag link. It's the short bodied ORD DLE that has no wrench flat on it. It's had ATF/Acetone applied repeatedly for about 4 days. I've had the torch on it a few times and have beat it with the 8lb. I made a holder for the DLE with two 18" pipe wrenches side by side and C-clamped together (one on each side of the stud). The wrench handles get shoved under a jackstand the truck is sitting on. I welded angle iron onto the drag link for wrench flats. This has a 15" crescent wrench on it with a pipe handle. So far jumping on that pipe has not freed it up. At night the tie rod has had ATF/acetone poured in from the other end to hit the threads.

Yes, I'm turning the right way. The left-hand threaded side is off already and I was able to back the nut off from the right-hand threaded side that is frozen on.

 

[Blue85]

I finally got the other DLE off. It required a 3' pipe for almost the whole length of the threads, squeaking with every movement. The threads look a little flatter in places now.

 

[FAB454]

Glad it let go

I've used those tools before. Never had luck freeing a really stuck end with them. They were good for getting ends off quickly, but that's about it.

 

[Deuling]

Never seize

 

[diesel4me]

If the drag link ends thread into a slotted sleeve like a stock one,I usually use a tool like a brake spoon or large screwdriver in the slot,to force the slot open some,after soaking it well with penetrating oil...usually that breaks them free--if not,the torches come out and I heat things up until they say "uncle"..

Those tools pictured for tie rods do work,but on an air impact they are scary...once the tie rod comes free ,it can spin it out at high speed,and the tie rod can be flung out of the tool like a missile....they do put a lot of side loads on the ball socket too,I've seen the ball stud get ripped out of old tie rods before,and go flying when used with an air gun..

 

[Blue85]

Yeah, maybe It's too hard on the TRE with the impact cranked up. I thought the impact hammering would help break it free. These ORD TREs have nothing to put a wrench on and now the body is chewed up with pipe wrench marks. This drag link is thick-walled tubing with the threads tapped onto the inside. I agree that the sleeve style is easier to break free.

 

[diesel4me]

If its a solid threaded tube,yeah,I can see that rusting up inside badly and seizing up--lots of never seize or grease would be wise in it--maybe completely full, so no air or moisture can get in it wouldn't be a bad idea..

 

[Blue85]

It's a long piece of 0.25 wall tubing - I won't be able to fill it completely with grease. I was not sparing with the anti-seize once I got the ends out, though.