Tie rod end "spacers"

[anwat]

The previous owner had some hard plastic "spacers" between the tie rod end and the steering knuckle, presumably to lessen the friction. However, by putting them in, it keeps the taper from fully inserting into the knuckle. Wondering what is more important, getting the taper all the way inserted, or giving a smooth surface to rotate on. With the spacer in, it looks like about 1/8 of an inch of he taper is not in the hole.

 

[nvrenuf]

Ruff Stuff or someone similar sells spacers like that for Y type steering set ups, the idea is to prevent or limit the amount of roll in the tie rod while turning so the damper or ram mounts stay parallel.

 

[formercruiserhead]

I think that is supposed to be a boot. But if it is hard I guess it might help keep it from rolling and act as a boot?

 

[anwat]

I thought the same thing about the boot initially, but it's hard plastic. It may have been the bottom of a boot, but they have a finshed edge, so I don't think so. The anti-roll idea makes more sense, but it seems like having that taper fully inserted into the knuckle would be more important. I think if the TRE was a little longer on the taper, it would work great, but as it is it seems it's going to create a loose junction with the knuckle, which is going to lead to other problems. The ram has rod ends with play in them on both ends. It seems it should be able to withstand a little twisting. Or at least it would be the lesser of two evils?

 

[sweetk30]

we should NOT need these in our trucks . its more a Y-link steering thing for jeep and TTB ford stuff .

 

[shady]

There are 2 different taper sizes. If the TRE sinks far enough in the hole to go beyond the threads, then I'd say they are either wrong for the application, or someone seemed the holes to the larger size

 

[Wes Harden]

The taper firm and tight is way more important. The knuckle will oblong the taper if the ball stud is not tight. Then it is NFG

 

[anwat]

There are 2 different taper sizes. If the TRE sinks far enough in the hole to go beyond the threads, then I'd say they are either wrong for the application, or someone seemed the holes to the larger size

Nope, at torque spec from ORD, the taper just reaches the bottom of the knuckle. Putting those spacers in would prevent it from bottoming out. The ORD dust boot has a thinner material between the taper and the knuckle, both the spacer and the dust boot would definitely be too much.

 

[anwat]

Spacers are staying out...everything is back together and it fits correctly. There is a bit of roll front to rear in the tre, but it doesnt seem the ram is in danger of binding up or anything, even at full droop..I think the spacers were probably why the original TRE failed so early. Well, that and the wobble that the broken track bar created. Alignment scheduled on Wednesday and we'll see if it is back to normal.

 

[Blue85]

The taper firm and tight is way more important. The knuckle will oblong the taper if the ball stud is not tight. Then it is NFG

Yes, this. A tight nut is not enough, the taper has to be seated. Otherwise, the steering will wander and you will ruin the knuckle.

 

[Blue85]

The previous owner had some hard plastic "spacers" between the tie rod end and the steering knuckle, presumably to lessen the friction.

The friction in the joint is internal to the tie rod end. The ball is designed to rotate and pivot inside the housing. The stud should be basically fused to the knuckle.

 

[anwat]

Just learned something with that...I thought the taper rotated in the knuckle...I was having trouble understanding how the grease got in there with such a tight fit. Seemed like it would just sit on top, which is exactly what it's supposed to do...keep the upper portion of the TRE lubricated. The taper is not supposed to rotate, it grabs the knuckle and the whole assembly rotates at the ball...makes perfect sense now...Sometimes I miss the obvious stuff. Spacer clearly isn't needed, then, since there shouldn't really be any motion there, the shaft of the TRE just rotates.