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Tie Rod Flip Bushings

magik235

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I have searched the web and can only find tie rod flip bushings for a Dana 30 front axle. Does anyone know where I can find tie rod flip bushings for a GM Dana 44?
 
Tie rod flip bushings? :dunno:

There were some bushings that allow you to drill out the taper in the knuckle and then you use these bushings in order to flip the tie rod so it comes in from the opposite direction (the bushings are straight on the OD to fit the now drilled out knuckles and then tapered on the ID to accept the TRE'S.
 
It is a bushing that goes into a 3/4" hole (drill out stock knuckle) and has the correct taper for your factory tierod end already in it. Basically you would drill out your knuckle, weld in bushing with big end of taper up, and reinstall your tierod on top of the knuckle instead of the bottom. I haven't found any specifically for a 10bolt/44 yet... I'll keep searching for ya!

On another note, maybe I'm trippin' but I swore that early d44's already were tapered so that the tierod was above the knuckle, but the tre's were offset down putting the tierod essentially in the same place as if it was mounted on the underside of the knuckle?

Also, IIRC having the tierod on top (not histeer) would interfere with the leaf springs (that is unless you have converted to coil or maybe just a 1" zero rate would clear?) It's been a while since I've looked as I switched to histeer ~8 years ago.
 
'76 and older D44's have the tie rod up top, not over the leaf spring but on top of the arm on the factory knuckle. As mentioned, they use a special tie rod that has several bends in it.

You can use a straight tie rod with the tie rod over the factory knuckle setup (without high steer) depending on leaf spring configuration etc. Usually you have to install the tie rod before the leaf springs to make it work.
 
'76 and older D44's have the tie rod up top, not over the leaf spring but on top of the arm on the factory knuckle. As mentioned, they use a special tie rod that has several bends in it.

You can use a straight tie rod with the tie rod over the factory knuckle setup (without high steer) depending on leaf spring configuration etc. Usually you have to install the tie rod before the leaf springs to make it work.
Yes, these were the 1st Design years.

If you use a straight tie rod on a 1st Design axle, and with stock springs and possibly 2" springs, too, the tie rod will rub against the bottom of the spring.
Solution is to lift it higher or use a zero-rate. Another would be to use the stock type tie rod. Or swap out the knuckles to flip the tie rod upside down.
 
Perfect. Thank you for the link. This is exactly what I needed.

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