I recently got in an argument with the local oreilleys here. The computer-operator there told me that GMs didn't have drag links. When I asked him how they were able to steer if there was no mechanical linkage between the axle and pitman arm, he changed the subject and told me that if I actually knew what I was talking about, I would just use hiems on my steering links...mental giants they have working there...
Your drag link ends as previously stated are ES2026R and ES2027L. Don't remember the number for the adjusting sleeve.
Your tie rod ends are ES2234R and ES2233L. These are the moog numbers that are used when you buy in a store, online, etc. They are stock 1/2-3/4 ton pickup, k5, and sub TREs, not "1-tons" like so many jeep steering companies call them. All GM DLEs are the same, but D60 TREs are 1" shank, and the drivers side end is 52" long (it's actually the whole tie rod).
The drivers side k5 TRE (I think it's the left hand thread one) is long and has a hole for a steering stabilizer. A lot of companies sell this with the hole tapered out for use with inverted-t steering on fords and jeeps (and it isn't strong enough for this application). It is common for a dodge w-series end (ES2011, I believe, but I'm also thinking this might be a D60 end) to be used in lieu of this in custom applications, but if were talking about you reusing your stock tie rod, the dodge end isn't going to be long enough and you will no longer have provisions for a steering stabilizer.
I've been buying ends at oreillys because they're the cheapest lifetime warranty ones in my area. They are crappy quality, but I can have 2 spares for each end for the price of a lifetime warranty NAPA end. If you go to a parts store and they say they don't carry them anymore, I'd be careful that you don't catch the stupid emminating from the guy behind the counter. I've had to ask to look behind the counter myself before because the "computer says we don't carry that". Low and behold, there are 2 pairs right at eye level on the shelf.
Hope this helps! The companies selling 7/8" diameter TREs as "GM 1-ton TREs" , and the parts stores selling DLEs as TREs (there's a BIG difference between the two!) have really contributed to a lot of confusion and have done the community a large disservice. It's a big pet peeve of mine
Forgot to add:
I've been having better luck lately by finding what I need on the Oreilly's/autozone/etc. website and bringing a printout or at least writing down their own SKU/part number thingy. Even with a picture, brand, several cross-reference part numbers, and showing that their specific store has multiple items in stock, I've still had them search for several minutes before they tell me that they don't carry it. But, at least this method eliminates the 15 minutes they spend searching their computer, asking you "what color carpet does it have?".
My local Autozone and Oreilly's carry Master Pro and Duralast as the cheap ends. They're about $15-$20 a piece for the DLEs and have lifetime warranties. They're both about the same quality, garbage compared to Dana ends, but they work just fine and seem to hold up to plenty of abuse. I'm running 40"x17" tires on my wheeler with no assist and mine aren't giving me any issues.
right-hand-thread DLE
cheap
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPH0/ES2026R.oap?keyword=es2026r
Moog
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/ES2026R.oap?keyword=es2026r
left-hand-thread DLE
cheap
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPH0/ES2027L.oap?keyword=es2027l
Moog
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/ES2027L.oap?keyword=es2027l
passenger-side TRE
cheap
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPH0/ES2234R.oap?keyword=es2234r
Moog
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/ES2234R.oap?keyword=es2234r
drivers-side TRE
cheap
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPH0/ES2233L.oap?keyword=es2233l
Moog
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/ES2233L.oap?keyword=es2233l
A lot of guys use this Dodge end when running custom tie rods because it is a bit stronger than the stock driver-side one, but I doubt it will work with the stock tie rod, and I wouldn't say the stock one is "weak". The only time I had a catastrophic failures when I was running them was from driving by braille in boulder fields
.
Dodge (shorter) end (ES2010L):
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/ES2010L.oap?keyword=es2010l
VS. stock GM end (ES2233L) with hole for the stabilizer:
As I said, the drag link ends are the same for all light-duty GMs regardless of GVWR, but the TREs on D60s are different. This is the passenger side end I believe. It is the same thing as ES2234R, except that the shank is 1"x18tpi (ES2011R) VS. 7/8"x18tpi (ES2234R).
ES2011R:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...rolet&model=K30&vi=1053098&pt=03448&ppt=C0203
I'm pretty sure this is the 1-ton drivers-side TRE, but without a picture or good description I can't really make sure. It's something like 52" long and it's pretty much special order everywhere I've talked to about it. The part number is DS905.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...rolet&model=K30&vi=1053098&pt=03448&ppt=C0203
Being as rebuilding a D60 tie rod is a pain to source the parts and retardedly expensive, I'm just going to run ES2234R and ES2010L on a piece of DOM tube with welded inserts once I finally get around to doing it.
