Tightening studs, what's your preference?

[handloader90]

I know about the two nut trick and have used it successfully in the past. I personally like to put a washer between the two nuts and use anti-seize, seems to help when taking the nuts off.

I have also over-tightened studs this way, I ended up cracking the area around the hole the stud was being installed into on an aluminum intake manifold... kinda sucked.

I'm getting ready to install some ARP studs in a Dana 60 knuckle for crossover steering and did a little research. Installing the stud hand tight is what I've came up with. Install the stud hand tight, place whatever it is your installing over the studs and torque the nuts to spec.

This is also the procedure that ARP lists for their head studs so I'm assuming that it would not be an issue with other things.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Hand tight is all for studs, just make sure they thread down all the way.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

I thought the whole point of studs is they don't have to be cranked down. Just run down snug and then the nut does the pulling for tension.

 

[ktmoutfront]

Never tighten the stud itself.

 

[handloader90]

Thanks for the replies.

I installed the studs hand tight and everything is buttoned up now.

 

[mrk5]

For what's worth, I have instructions for installed APR main bearing cap studs in a motor. They say to put the studs HAND TIGHT ONLY. Emphasis copied from the instructions.

 

[Truckman4life]

Lots of studs such as on Cat engines have to be torqued down. Got to go with the manufacturer's recommendation whether to tighten or not. I prefer stud sockets like these when I need to torque them.

I have a metric and standard set from Cornwell. Or I also like Cobra pliers from Knipex. Super bad ass for pipe fittings and stuff you need to grip the crap out of.

 

[mrk5]

I love those Knipex!

 

[plyr2k]

The procedure for my head studs on my Cummins was hand tight, then out half a turn. In the instructions they specifically say not to let the stud bottom out in the bore.