Time for the 10b rear to go, but whats next?

[NEK5]

As some of you may know, I had a wobble in the DS shaft in my rear 10b. I`m not sure how it happened, but I thought for a while that it had went away. But, it has actually gotten quite worse, and I have now chosen not to use the 10b detroit I got, because if it has been wobbling like this for that long, I`m sure it has done some internal damage.

So, if I`m going to swap the rear axle I might as well swap to a better ratio. So I`ll go with 4.10s.

Localy, I can get a d44 and 12b, with 4.10s, for $300.
I can get an eaton rear (HO72) with 4.10s and factory detroit for $275 (obo)
I can also get a d60 rear from a ford with my current ration 373s, for $100

So, which is the better deal?

 

[pauly383]

Well , and its just my opinion :

# 1 while I like it is not worth it if YOU really get into your trucks skinny pedal to go wheeling , and d44's have less cheap factory shafts available used anymore .

# 2 is unbreakable but means you change the front gears , spending more money .

# 3 means some other changes including getting aftermarket shafts to fit your rims .

Also don't forget to smack the guy who installed your rearend stuff , no reason for the pinion to be loose already if he installed a new nut and did the gears right .

 

[NEK5]

I`d love to get the Eaton rear, mainly because the rep it has. I`m looking for something that isn`t going to break running 33s/35s. and, 10b fronts with 4.10s should be somewhat easy to find, and cheap.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The 12 bolt/dana 44 route that may be a pretty good way to go. Matching ratios, it uses the same wheels you already have, they will bolt in and if you ever decide to upgrade axles you should be able to resell them for what you bought them for. Make sure the balljoints etc. are in good shape, that cost/time can add up quick.

If the Eaton actually has a factory Detroit, it will be 19 spline IIRC. The shafts will be weaker and harder to find than 14 bolt shafts (which are a direct swap) but WAY stronger than the 10/12 bolt shafts. HO72's are strong but bearings/seals are expensive and are a little weaker than FF 14 bolts unless you swap to 14 bolt shafts/Detroit.

The 60 should be out of the question IMO. Too much time and effort (moving spring perches and shock mounts) to end up with an inferior axle (the FF shafts are the same size as 10 bolt shafts). Even if its a SF (with the 1.5" 35 spline shafts), its still isn't as easy to swap in as a FF 14 bolt and you should be able to find one with 4.10's in a similar price range.

IMO, the 12 bolt/44 swap seems the best.

 

[pauly383]

I`m looking for something that isn`t going to break running 33s/35s.

For what its worth , in real world wheeling , I don't believe 33's should break much at all . hell I never really broke until 35's , and never broke a shaft until the front locker , and that was while getting seat time with a locker up front

 

[NEK5]

For what its worth , in real world wheeling , I don't believe 33's should break much at all . hell I never really broke until 35's , and never broke a shaft until the front locker , and that was while getting seat time with a locker up front

That is most likely the case, but a little insurance would be nice.

AFAIK, the D44 only needs rotors. Has 6 in lift springs on the front axle I could also sell. After looking up the D60 rear, I now want nothing to do with it. I would love the eaton rear, but then I need to get an 8 lug front. I have 8 lug hubs for a 10b, with they work on the 44?

It may just be worth getting the D44/12b set. Seem pretty good for the price.

 

[NEK5]

I`ll also add I`m not exactly sure whats wrong with my 10b. All I know is my right rear tire wobbles, and upon further inspection, we came to the conclusion the axle shaft is wobbling. May have been dropped on it before I got it, but I`ll never know.

 

[bowtiepower00]

IF all your planning is 33's/ 35's, do the D44/12B and don't look back. Period. If you run into breakage issues- which I don't think you will- you can always add chromo shafts, or locate some spares. Pauly is proof that you can make the lighter stuff work well.

I've seen you go around in circles about this stuff. CK5 makes it sound like you'll be snapping stuff left and right with 35's unless you have 1-tons, that is not the case. Locked, and on the rocks, maybe. Leave the front open, lock the rear, and wheel the damn thing. You have an auto, that will help too. There are worse things than changing a broken axleshaft.

The Eaton isn't any stronger than a 14FF, and that thing is going to be big and HEAVY. If you keep your rig light it will wheel much better and not break as often.

If I were you, 35's with the 44/12B, and forget about it.

If you are seriously considering 33's, which are too small, IMO, then skip right past the boat anchor Eaton, or any large FF axle.

ORD's green blazer ran a (built) 12b/ 10b setup for quite awhile before the whole rig got turned into a tank.

You need to be realistic with what you're going to be doing with your rig. If you are going to be hitting mild to moderate trails and want to have fun, you don't need uber-beef.

Your current setup, with the 44/12b, and 35's, will be plenty capable. Sometimes, you have to take the go-around, or a strap, to avoid breaking stuff.

 

[Chevy305]

IF all your planning is 33's/ 35's, do the D44/12B and don't look back. Period. If you run into breakage issues- which I don't think you will- you can always add chromo shafts, or locate some spares. Pauly is proof that you can make the lighter stuff work well.

I've seen you go around in circles about this stuff. CK5 makes it sound like you'll be snapping stuff left and right with 35's unless you have 1-tons, that is not the case. Locked, and on the rocks, maybe. Leave the front open, lock the rear, and wheel the damn thing. You have an auto, that will help too. There are worse things than changing a broken axleshaft.

The Eaton isn't any stronger than a 14FF, and that thing is going to be big and HEAVY. If you keep your rig light it will wheel much better and not break as often.

If I were you, 35's with the 44/12B, and forget about it.

If you are seriously considering 33's, which are too small, IMO, then skip right past the boat anchor Eaton, or any large FF axle.

ORD's green blazer ran a (built) 12b/ 10b setup for quite awhile before the whole rig got turned into a tank.

You need to be realistic with what you're going to be doing with your rig. If you are going to be hitting mild to moderate trails and want to have fun, you don't need uber-beef.

Your current setup, with the 44/12b, and 35's, will be plenty capable. Sometimes, you have to take the go-around, or a strap, to avoid breaking stuff.

I couldn't have said it better myself!

Ben look at me, I have 35"s on 10bolts with a locked rear and I only broke a shaft because I was an idiot.

Also why not just replace the shaft and make your life easier? If its as bad as you say then you may need to replace the wheel bearings too, but thats not hard at all. I could give you a hand with it one weekend sometime if you need it.

 

[tomford]

if you buy the d44/12b id be interested in the springs, they dont happen to have the rear ones?


Tom

 

[AZ79K5Project]

One other aspect often overlooked and quickly dismissed by some-->

The pumpkin of a 14bff is significantly bigger than a 12 bolt. You need 6" taller tires to keep the same ground clearance under the axles. You can grind the bottom of the pumpkin to gain some clearance back.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The pumpkin of a 14bff is significantly bigger than a 12 bolt. You need 6" taller tires to keep the same ground clearance under the axles. You can grind the bottom of the pumpkin to gain some clearance back.

That's WAY, WAY off.

A stock 14 bolt to a 12 bolt is probably a difference of 1.75" diff clearance (or 3.5" difference in tire height).

A shaved 14 bolt to a 12 bolt is ~.75" (only 1.5" difference in tire height).

 

[Bent77]

It will still hit everything, just more meat to wear thru bfore you see ring gear.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

It will still hit everything, just more meat to wear thru bfore you see ring gear.

 

[Bent77]

The good news is the extra ballast below your center of gravity to help keep the paws on the floor...

 

[AZ79K5Project]

That's WAY, WAY off.

A stock 14 bolt to a 12 bolt is probably a difference of 1.75" diff clearance (or 3.5" difference in tire height).

A shaved 14 bolt to a 12 bolt is ~.75" (only 1.5" difference in tire height).

You're right - your way way off.

14.875 vs 9.5 inches. 5.375 difference at the gasket. You have a greater bottom lip which brings it up to around 6 inches difference. Split the difference. 3 inches lower in the bottom. 6 inch taller tire to be the same.

And I said:

You can grind the bottom of the pumpkin to gain some clearance back.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

14.875 vs 9.5 inches. 5.375 difference at the gasket.

Where are you getting these numbers?

A 12 bolt has a 8.875" ring gear, a FF 14 bolt has a 10.5" ring gear. They both have very similar clearances between the ring gear and housing and the 14 bolt is at most 1/8" thicker at the cover mounting flange. That makes for a clearance difference of *at most* 1" (which is even smaller than what I first posted, my mistake I suppose).

I have had both a 12 bolt and a 14 bolt in my truck, for the record.

 

[NEK5]

I couldn't have said it better myself!

Ben look at me, I have 35"s on 10bolts with a locked rear and I only broke a shaft because I was an idiot.

Also why not just replace the shaft and make your life easier? If its as bad as you say then you may need to replace the wheel bearings too, but thats not hard at all. I could give you a hand with it one weekend sometime if you need it.

I could do that, but, that would mean tearing into that worn out posi thats in there. I have a detroit for it, and i have new bearings and races for the carrier. What are my chances that the only thing the wobbly shaft has caused is a bad wheel bearing? Should probably just replace them anyway. Glenn, I may take you up on that offer, since you have dones gears once yourself. Maybe I should try and find the backlash tool, and just put that detroit in there.

 

[tomford]

if you need some help, let me know, ill come and lend a hand

I dont have to work this weekend eather

Tom

 

[Chevy305]

Well perfect we'll replace the shafts bearings, outer seals, and intall the detroit!

Just make sure you give me a little notice of about a week or so...