Got everything off the Frame, Cleaned up the Frame, and now i want to box the frame to make it stronger, what should i be looking for now to do this, what kind of thickness metal and what kind of weldings should i be doing. I noticed i have a small crack where the Trans/Transfer case cross member bolt is, which is the best way to go about fixing the crack, i dont want to weld a plate on it, cause i plan on making my 86 K5 a show and go truck, and little things like this problem people will take notice thats a huge NO NO to me
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Time to Box the Frame
- Thread starter Ambro'sK5
- Start date
trailblazr81
1/2 ton status
To fix the crack I would say to drill a hole at either end, grind in a "V" notch and weld 'er up. 
I would suggest using a good powerful MIG welder to do the boxing. Do a Search its been talked about a few times. I remember seeing some pics of other people doing it. I plan to...someday.
I would suggest using a good powerful MIG welder to do the boxing. Do a Search its been talked about a few times. I remember seeing some pics of other people doing it. I plan to...someday.
SCOOBYDANNN
1/2 ton status
If you are gonna do it, do it from front to back. I used the same thickness metal as the frame--3/16. i welded it inside of the frame. a little more work but i know it is stronger than just welding it on the outside. If you are going to use the column shifter you are going to have a weak spot where the shift rod pivots off the frame (because the shackle is right there too) aftermarket shifter would be a better choice. I also welded to the factory crossmembers. and make sure to cut holes where bolts go. it is easier to do it BEFORE you weld the box in (don't ask me how I know
) ie. shocks, trans crossmember, etc. fuel lines should be placed outside the box.
here are some pics
first 2 are of one truck i did and second is my truck
) ie. shocks, trans crossmember, etc. fuel lines should be placed outside the box.here are some pics
first 2 are of one truck i did and second is my truck
SCOOBYDANNN
1/2 ton status
oh yea, and stitch weld it. weld one in skip 2 on the top and weld 2 skip one on the bottom, you can see it in the first two pics.
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
You do this after you cracked the frame behind the cab?
sled_dog
1 ton status
I'm interested why you feel welding inside of the frame is stronger and welding every few inches versus solid?SCOOBYDANNN said:
I box just to the outside of the inner c. Makes it a true box. Weld it solid and you can't get mud into it. your way I see a good chance for rust and rusting out(though in the case of an offroad truck, how long will it last?). Also provides the best way for penetration, I'm looking for a picture I have of it around here somewhere...
sled_dog
1 ton status
can't find it so I made a new picture...
That is the way I set it up. The slight space is a good way to setup a corner weld. Easy pentration. This is exagerated. I usually do it so you can see 3/4 of the thickness of the framerail approximately. Mind you, I've only boxed 2 frames and neither fully. My S10's frame is nice and solid, between the frame mounted cage and boxing from the factory boxing back to the 4 link crossmember. I don't see why it is people say you need fully box the frame from end to end. Yes its strong, but heavy too. My cage stiffened up the rear frame very well in my opinion. Factory boxed frames stop just passed the trans crossmember...
oh and to touch the main subject(since I mildly got off... a little), to fix the crack, I'd drill a hole at the end of it, grind with a die grinder a little further along the path of the crack(you can rarely really see the end of the crack), then grind the crack, then I would place a piece of plate with a hole the same size of the crossmember hole and place it inside the frame rail. Weld the plate in, weld the crack up.
That is the way I set it up. The slight space is a good way to setup a corner weld. Easy pentration. This is exagerated. I usually do it so you can see 3/4 of the thickness of the framerail approximately. Mind you, I've only boxed 2 frames and neither fully. My S10's frame is nice and solid, between the frame mounted cage and boxing from the factory boxing back to the 4 link crossmember. I don't see why it is people say you need fully box the frame from end to end. Yes its strong, but heavy too. My cage stiffened up the rear frame very well in my opinion. Factory boxed frames stop just passed the trans crossmember...
oh and to touch the main subject(since I mildly got off... a little), to fix the crack, I'd drill a hole at the end of it, grind with a die grinder a little further along the path of the crack(you can rarely really see the end of the crack), then grind the crack, then I would place a piece of plate with a hole the same size of the crossmember hole and place it inside the frame rail. Weld the plate in, weld the crack up.
SCOOBYDANNN
1/2 ton status
ryan, i had to get rid of the scooby so upon reincarnating it into scoobydee i decided to do it right the first time. oh yea and congrats on the promotion.
i'll say that both methods are strong enough for anything we put to our truck, but with a plate inside the frame with a tight fit if the frame were to try to move it would be move against plate and the weld. where as the outside it would be forcing on just the weld area. as for the stitch if a crack were to form it would theoretically stop where the weld stops--if it were a solid weld it might be a pain to follow.
i see your point on the rust but honestly in my neck of the woods it never rains so it dosnt concern me, but i would think about it if i were somewhere else.
i'll say that both methods are strong enough for anything we put to our truck, but with a plate inside the frame with a tight fit if the frame were to try to move it would be move against plate and the weld. where as the outside it would be forcing on just the weld area. as for the stitch if a crack were to form it would theoretically stop where the weld stops--if it were a solid weld it might be a pain to follow.
i see your point on the rust but honestly in my neck of the woods it never rains so it dosnt concern me, but i would think about it if i were somewhere else.
