Time to get intimate w/ my IFS

[rx7gslse]

ok.. as I supected in a 190k mile truck, time to replace a bunch of steering/suspension parts... Anyone have some tech write-ups or instructions to point me to (outside of the shop manual) to replace;

1) pitman & idler arm (these look like a pain in the azz to get off, no space!)
2) outer tie rod ends - these look a lot more straight forward.
3) lower ball joints. Uppers look recent, lowers look shot.


Toe is way off.. took it in to attempt to get it aligned and they wouldn't do it due to worn parts.. ran thru the checklist I found on FSC and my replacement list looks to match the shops recommendations...

This is on a 99 K2500 suburban 4x4 w/ a 66" RCD lift...


Also, cheapest place for parts??
at Autozone
pitman arm = $21
Idler bracket assembly = $39
tie rod end = $21
ball joint = $34

 

[daleearnhardt01]

Moog parts only.. Trust me on that one, everything else is junk..

 

[rx7gslse]

Moog parts only.. Trust me on that one, everything else is junk..

So I'm reading...

Moog at o'reilly, check..

Idler/pitman seem straight forward enough, might have to tilt the steering gear to get the puller on there. (gotta buy a 32mm socket)

Tie rod ends, cake.. obvisouly need aligned afterwards.. Only one outer needs replaced, but probably do both while I'm in there..

Ball Joints = PITA. pressed in, I have the 'forged' control arms. Have to get a ball joint press, but that'll do the job..



Do I need to pull the CV shafts to get the lower ball joints off?? haven't found if theres a way to skip that on these trucks yet..



off to do more readin...

 

[daleearnhardt01]

Yes moving the steering box a bit will allow a puller. It can be a royal pain to get those off sometimes..

 

[AJMBLAZER]

www.rockauto.com


I've found their prices to usually be cheaper than the local guys...by a lot.

 

[rx7gslse]

www.rockauto.com


I've found their prices to usually be cheaper than the local guys...by a lot.

They're a bit cheaper for the MOOG parts than O'reilly ($210 total vs $238) but throw in shipping and the fact that I want to do it this weekend, and local shop wins again... Good site for future reference though...

Picking up teh parts after work tonight and off I go... Wish me luck!

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Yeah, if I'm ordering ahead of time they're usually cheaper than the locals, even with shipping.

Just did shocks and struts on my wife's DD a month or so ago and was able to get KYB's for it for the price the locals wanted for the generic crapmatic shocks.

 

[Masiony]

...This is on a 99 K2500 suburban 4x4 w/ a 66" RCD lift...

thats a lot of lift

 

[rx7gslse]

thats a lot of lift

at least it's not 666?

only 6" lift.. sorry..

ok, tie rodend done, idler & pitman eparated from center link... on lunch break before I head back out..

 

[rx7gslse]

at least it's not 666?

only 6" lift.. sorry..

ok, tie rodend done, idler & pitman eparated from center link... on lunch break before I head back out..

Feck this a pain in the azz.. press broke ball joint #1 on install, had to go back to the store for another..

Idler bracket spun freely when trying to get a nut on it, o had to go back and get another one..

so at the end of day 1, idler done, driver side tie rod & ball joint done.. Discovered that the pitman arm is harder than I hoped, pulling the steering gear and all..

 

[rx7gslse]

and in case anyone cares, it's done!

quick hints, to get to the lower ball joints (w/o separating the uppers) its easy to pull the LCA bolts..

ON a 4x4 2500, it *IS* possible to get the pitman arm off without pulling the steering gear. take the gear bolts out and shove it forward... had enough space to get both the impact wrech and the puller on the pitman arm between the front diff & the sway bar...

idler arms are easy... just get a magnet for the stupid bolts in the frame...

tie rod ends - also easy, but PB blaster is your friend... Mark the old ones before you pull them out to get the new ones back in prety close to the same spot..

Ball joint presses are cool.. but if it's not aligned right you can break the 'shoulder' of the ball joint if it's not aligned right.. $40 oops there.. And ball joint boots are a BIATCH to get seated.. Anyone have hints there??

 

[1982blazer]

I replaced my pitman arm and idler about a week ago it is kind of a pain i had to unbolt the steering box just like you said. I need to also replace my pass side outer tie rod end but it doesn't look nearly as hard.