franco802
1/2 ton status
Since its a 3/4 ton it should bolt right into my spring perches, but I think i need shock extension brackets welded on. I mabe wrong.
CK5
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Time to regear seriously
- Thread starter franco802
- Start date
Since its a 3/4 ton it should bolt right into my spring perches, but I think i need shock extension brackets welded on. I mabe wrong.
3/4 Ton Blazer
1/2 ton status
My 3/4T 14B FF axle was a direct bolt in with my '89 K5. The only issues were e-brake cables, and I needed the conversion u-joint ($30).
franco802
1/2 ton status
Well if the guy only wants $200 i am going for it and will do it myself, granting it still works well since its an 86'. Not sure what gears, but that thing's got have at least 4.10's in it! What did you do for ebrake cables? If i go for this, i am sticking with drum brakes. Will I be able to fit a 15" wheel on there since i have brand new 35x12.5 15's? If I can fit a 15" wheel, then what backspacing. Sorry for all the questions, just want to make this as painless as possible while gathering parts.
BigEasy
1/2 ton status
It doesn't have to be at least 4.10's. There were quite a few with 3.73's and some were even lower. I would definitely pull the cover and check the ratio before you hand over the money. If the guy isn't willing to pull the cover, keep shopping. It might not be a bad idea to keep shopping until you find a matched front & rear axle set anyways. I would RUN away from any shop that wants to charge $3k to rebuild & install a 14bff. Even if you can only find a 14bsf rear, it's still quite a bit stronger than the 10 bolt rear and the e-brake cables will hook right up (but you will still need the conversion joint). That's what I have under my rig and the swap was super easy. Have you asked the guy at 4 Wheel Parts how much they would charge to do the swap? You can still run 15" wheels on 3/4 ton axles, but you will have to use steel wheels since the added thickness of the aluminum ones usually do not clear. You may also have to grind a little on the front calipers but tons of guys do it and information on how to do it can easily be found on this site.
franco802
1/2 ton status
I don't have problems swapping axles, thats easy to do. If it bolts straight in, then no problems for me. I only run steel wheels anyway. True about the advice on the rear end. I will ask if I could pull that cover off.
If you don't mind waiting a bit, I have a set of 3/4 ton axles 3.73 and 4.10 your choice, I can deliver and help with the install too.
I just need to do a couple more trips before I can do this but you might be able to get this done as a christmas present to your truck.
I am looking for $350 for the axles and we can figure out the delivery and installation help.
It's a 14bsf rear and 10bolt front
IceMan
franco802
1/2 ton status
Ok, I think this one is a 4.10 axle. I will make sure when i see the guy tomorrow. Now, since this 86' 3/4 ton truck is a 2wd model, can I still take the front 8 lug hubs, rotors etc.. and convert my k5 6lug stuff over with the parts from the 2wd 8 lug truck? Guy pretty much said i can take what i want off the suspension for $200.00!
The front 2WD stuff won't work on a 4WD. The rear axle will bolt in but you may need to rework the shock mounts as they are lower on a 2WD axle versus a 4WD axle and the shock body will probably give you troubles on the driver side shock because of that.
franco802
1/2 ton status
So pretty much just wack off the shock mounts on the 14bff and buy some new ones from a sponser here and just weld them on?
I just cut the shock mounts off and welded them back to the axle in a better place.
I have 35"s and 10bolts and I have yet to seriously break anything. Ok I did break an axel shaft because I have a locker and I tried a brake stand... But I now know the limits of my axels.
I regeared both axels myself. A local shop quoted me $1K per axel. They are the ONLY ones in the area to do anything with diff gears so they can charge whatever they want.
I geared to 4.10s with my 35"s. I don't plan on going any bigger either. My truck has plenty of balls too with 4.10s. I don't have OD so I chose a good allaround ratio. And I can cruise at 85mph on the highway just fine with the engine spinning a little over 3000rpm.
Alot of people forget that there is ALWAYS more to a 14bff swap than just the cost of the axel, don't forget that its 8 lug, so you need new wheels, and then you need the front to match as well. It just adds up and realistically the cost of regearing is about the same as swapping in a 14bff and a matching front end. Sure a 14bolt is way stronger, but unless you wheel locked 10bolts in the rocks, you won't break anything unless you're stupid. The whole point is to know the limits of your rig and stay within those limits. Then throw a set of chromo axel shafts in your 10bolt, I dare you to break it!
Another option that might be to get a 6 lug 14bsf from an 88 and up truck and move the perches then regear you're front to match. That way you keep your wheels if you want to.
Take it from me, you're 10bolts will suffice.
I regeared both axels myself. A local shop quoted me $1K per axel. They are the ONLY ones in the area to do anything with diff gears so they can charge whatever they want.
I geared to 4.10s with my 35"s. I don't plan on going any bigger either. My truck has plenty of balls too with 4.10s. I don't have OD so I chose a good allaround ratio. And I can cruise at 85mph on the highway just fine with the engine spinning a little over 3000rpm.
Alot of people forget that there is ALWAYS more to a 14bff swap than just the cost of the axel, don't forget that its 8 lug, so you need new wheels, and then you need the front to match as well. It just adds up and realistically the cost of regearing is about the same as swapping in a 14bff and a matching front end. Sure a 14bolt is way stronger, but unless you wheel locked 10bolts in the rocks, you won't break anything unless you're stupid. The whole point is to know the limits of your rig and stay within those limits. Then throw a set of chromo axel shafts in your 10bolt, I dare you to break it!
Another option that might be to get a 6 lug 14bsf from an 88 and up truck and move the perches then regear you're front to match. That way you keep your wheels if you want to.
Take it from me, you're 10bolts will suffice.
franco802
1/2 ton status
Well, I kind of did the math already and the 14bff takes the win. here is the breakdown:
Regearing 10 bolts = $1k
14bff= $200.00 for the rear end w/4.10's
$40.00 u-joint conversion
$80.00 for two 8 lug wheels new w/free mounting and balancing tires
$500.00 to regear front 10 bolt to 4.10 labor and parts complete.
Total= $820.00
Looks like i saved $180.00 going the 14bff route and have newly geared front 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and a rebuid kit w/install included.
I would spend 180.00 more to regear the ****ty 10 bolts and then i would still have to worry about breaking something in the future. then my 1k that i spent on the weak 10 bolts would be pissed down the tubes. I think i might just stick with the 14bff. then if i run into a Dana 60 in the future I will be set
I do appreciate the motivation on the 10 bolts, keeps me thinking about it. Big props to you for regearing yourself. if I knew how to do it, I wouldn't even of started this thread, I wish I knew how. But I will leave that one to the pros.
Well, I kind of did the math already and the 14bff takes the win. here is the breakdown:
Regearing 10 bolts = $1k
14bff= $200.00 for the rear end w/4.10's
$40.00 u-joint conversion
$80.00 for two 8 lug wheels new w/free mounting and balancing tires
$500.00 to regear front 10 bolt to 4.10 labor and parts complete.
Total= $820.00
Looks like i saved $180.00 going the 14bff route and have newly geared front 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and a rebuid kit w/install included.
I would spend 180.00 more to regear the ****ty 10 bolts and then i would still have to worry about breaking something in the future. then my 1k that i spent on the weak 10 bolts would be pissed down the tubes. I think i might just stick with the 14bff. then if i run into a Dana 60 in the future I will be set
Big props to you for regearing yourself. if I knew how to do it, I wouldn't even of started this thread, I wish I knew how. But I will leave that one to the pros.
You forgot to mention doing the 8 lug conversion up front unless of course you're going to carry two spare tires.
I read the write up about it on pirate and I bought the instalation video from Richmond gear. The video was a big help; it has all the torque specs and it goes through step by step on how to install it. When I started my install I went in kinda blind and figured it out myself. The only mistake I made was that i screwed up the threads on the pinion by hitting it with a hammer. I should have used a block of wood... I didn't use any fancy tools either, I set everything up through the contact pattern. The gears included a handy dandy chart of contact pattern and which way to adjust to correct it. In total it was about $500 in parts.
If you have access to a press and depending on how fast you're hands work you could do it in a weekend.
Also the install video can be ordered from Jegs or Summit for like $15
I definitely wouldn't say that regearing 10-bolts is cheaper than swapping to a 14-bolt FF....sure, you can make it more expensive but it definitely doesn't have to be.
In my case:
14FF with new brakes = $100
conversion u-joint = $30
new u-bolts = $50
parts need to convert front 10-bolt to 8-lug = $50
- was already 4.10 geared to match the 14FF, but could have bought a complete 4.10 geared 8-lug front axle for $100
new set of 15" 8-lug wheels = $200
Total = $430 (or under $500 for a complete front axle if it needs regeared)
You would have a hard time just buying all of the parts to regear a pair of 10-bolts for that price, and then you would still have to pay for labor if you can't do it yourself. Even if you can do the gears, it's much quicker and easier to so a complete axle swap.
And say what you want about the 10-bolts holding up to abuse, but they can and will break eventually if used with larger tires...and if the rear axle breaks it can be a real PITA. With a 14FF in the rear you definitely get a feeling of confidence, even if you still have a 10-bolt front. Short of breaking the housing or ripping a knuckle off there isn't much you can do to the front axle and not be able to shift into 2wd, unlock the hubs, and get off the trail or drive home with no issues.
In my case:
14FF with new brakes = $100
conversion u-joint = $30
new u-bolts = $50
parts need to convert front 10-bolt to 8-lug = $50
- was already 4.10 geared to match the 14FF, but could have bought a complete 4.10 geared 8-lug front axle for $100
new set of 15" 8-lug wheels = $200
Total = $430 (or under $500 for a complete front axle if it needs regeared)
You would have a hard time just buying all of the parts to regear a pair of 10-bolts for that price, and then you would still have to pay for labor if you can't do it yourself. Even if you can do the gears, it's much quicker and easier to so a complete axle swap.
And say what you want about the 10-bolts holding up to abuse, but they can and will break eventually if used with larger tires...and if the rear axle breaks it can be a real PITA. With a 14FF in the rear you definitely get a feeling of confidence, even if you still have a 10-bolt front. Short of breaking the housing or ripping a knuckle off there isn't much you can do to the front axle and not be able to shift into 2wd, unlock the hubs, and get off the trail or drive home with no issues.
BigEasy
1/2 ton status
Here's some better math:
14bsf+10b from Iceman (already has 4.10 gears)= $350
Conversion u-joint = $40
New U-bolts = $50
Full set of wheels based on your prices = $160
Total = $600
Yes the rear will be a semifloat but it's still much, much stronger than 10 bolt and it will handle 35"s easily. Plus the ebrake cables should hook right up and the shock mounts will not need to be relocated. With 2 guys this swap can be done in a day.
3/4 Ton Blazer
1/2 ton status
What do you mean? His total does add up to $430.
I am going 3.73 w TH400 and 35's......
van width 3.73 14b FF - $50
perches - $20
shock mounts - $20 (you could reuse)
detroit - $340 (shipped-pirate)
install kit - $108 (4wps)
brake brackets - $50 (ruffstuff)
diff cover - $80 (solid)
2 rotors - $40 (autozone)
2 calipers - $50 (autozone)
pads - $15 (autozone)
= $773
- recap - disked, locked, one ton rear end to replace open 2.42 10 bolt
next move...
buy 4 new tires/wheels from 4 wheel parts and sell old 6 luggers, then rebuild front 10 bolt or find a 44 with flattops
van width 3.73 14b FF - $50
perches - $20
shock mounts - $20 (you could reuse)
detroit - $340 (shipped-pirate)
install kit - $108 (4wps)
brake brackets - $50 (ruffstuff)
diff cover - $80 (solid)
2 rotors - $40 (autozone)
2 calipers - $50 (autozone)
pads - $15 (autozone)
= $773
- recap - disked, locked, one ton rear end to replace open 2.42 10 bolt
next move...
buy 4 new tires/wheels from 4 wheel parts and sell old 6 luggers, then rebuild front 10 bolt or find a 44 with flattops
BigEasy
1/2 ton status
My mistake, I looked at the "...could have bought a complete 4.10 geared 8 lug front axle for $100" and added that in.
Nevermind, carry on. 
