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Time to replace gas tank - need suggestions please

andyblack

andyblack

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Saturday morning I noticed a puddle under my gas tank. This is an '85 SWB pickup (carburated) with the driver's side saddle tank. 16 gallon tank. I removed the stock plastic "skid plate" to find an unbelievable amount of wet, nasty mud stuck in it. This no doubt contributed to the rust that I saw on the bottom of the tank. I could see where the gas was seeping out at, so I wiped the area with a paper towel to see if I could pinpoint exactly where the leak was. I must have wiped away the mud that was keeping the gas in because it really started leaking out then. I finally managed to get it to stop with some of that gas tank putty stuff. I could see another blob of the stuff that someone else had stuck on there some time in the past. I was going to sand the bottom of the tank down and paint it so it couldn't rust anymore, but it's so rusty that I was scared I would bust more holes in it if I even touched it.

So I need a new tank. What should I do - get a replacement tank from LMC? get an old tank from the junkyard? swap over to a Blazer or Suburban tank? :dunno: How much trouble would it be to do that? I know it's been done and I get tired of having to fill up the little 16 gallon tank every 160 miles or so. What do yall suggest I do? I had just filled up the day before it started leaking, but it won't take long to burn all that up.
 
andyblack said:
Saturday morning I noticed a puddle under my gas tank. This is an '85 SWB pickup (carburated) with the driver's side saddle tank. 16 gallon tank. I removed the stock plastic "skid plate" to find an unbelievable amount of wet, nasty mud stuck in it. This no doubt contributed to the rust that I saw on the bottom of the tank. I could see where the gas was seeping out at, so I wiped the area with a paper towel to see if I could pinpoint exactly where the leak was. I must have wiped away the mud that was keeping the gas in because it really started leaking out then. I finally managed to get it to stop with some of that gas tank putty stuff. I could see another blob of the stuff that someone else had stuck on there some time in the past. I was going to sand the bottom of the tank down and paint it so it couldn't rust anymore, but it's so rusty that I was scared I would bust more holes in it if I even touched it.

So I need a new tank. What should I do - get a replacement tank from LMC? get an old tank from the junkyard? swap over to a Blazer or Suburban tank? :dunno: How much trouble would it be to do that? I know it's been done and I get tired of having to fill up the little 16 gallon tank every 160 miles or so. What do yall suggest I do? I had just filled up the day before it started leaking, but it won't take long to burn all that up.
Click to expand...

You can get a tank from the parts store too, usually nice canadian units. If you were closer I have a shortbed tank I just took out. If you want more fuel, your cheapest options are to get a blazer tank, or put in dual tanks from a donor truck.
 
I wonder which would be better, a stock replacement tank or a Blazer tank? How much does a Blazer tank hold? I'd like to hear from someone who's done this swap. Where would the filler neck go? I guess I would just run a long hose over to where it's at now.

How much do the ones from the parts store cost?
 
andyblack said:
I wonder which would be better, a stock replacement tank or a Blazer tank? How much does a Blazer tank hold? I'd like to hear from someone who's done this swap. Where would the filler neck go? I guess I would just run a long hose over to where it's at now.

How much do the ones from the parts store cost?
Click to expand...

The filler hose would probably be the largest obstacle, I think they hold anywhere from 25 up to 40 gallons for a burb tank.

The parts store saddle tanks range from $95 - $120.
 
small sb tank = 16 gal
large lb tank = 20 gal
small blazer tank = 25 gal
large blazer tank = 31 gal
largest burb tank = 40 gal

need custom fab brackets to swap blazer tank in the truck. but super easy to do.

hard part will be the filler is on the pass side for blazer. and any filler tube hose needs to be a decent drop per inch or fill up will be pita as it will kick the safty on the filler nozle at the pump cause the fuel dosnt flow down the hose fast .
 
I dealt with this last year and Big Ugly. The problem we ran into with the Blazer tank is that the filler has to go up into the bed. No big deal if your truck is a wheeler only but if you want to actually still use it as a pickup then it's hard to get around having a filler neck sticking up in the bed.

I looked into the plastic tanks. Guys on here have run them but no one had fantabulous reviews. All kinda "meh".

Looked at a new tank. You can order them from RockAuto and any parts store. Problem I ran into is they're not rustproofed and a lot of folks mentioned them rusting fast.

What we ended up doing was using a company/process called GastankRenu that basically fixes your stock tank if it can be fixed and then puts this ceramic coating around it inside and out. Basically rust proof then. Funny part was it only cost about $100 more than a whole new tank from the parts store assuming I went with the cheapest tank possible.
http://www.gastankrenu.com/

Looks like they have nothing local to you but you might try to find something similar local. Lots of radiator and fuel tank places around still.
 
Thanks. I wonder why the plastic tanks aren't any more popular. :dunno: Seems like they would be preferred over the steel ones because they can't rust out. I did drill some small holes in the plastic skid plate before I put it back on so that hopefully any water that gets in it will drain out before it becomes a problem.
 
Go find a steel skid plate.

The plastic tanks weren't as "bolt in" as they claimed. One guy mentioned the way the pickup mounted was pretty cheeze whiz stuff. Worked but not OEM quality. It was enough stuff overall to make me think it wasn't worth the added cost.

I figured the gas tank coating wouldn't rust either and would end up with a tank that bolted in like stock so I went that way.
 
If you frequent the more street orientated forums having to do with square Chevys alot of guys take the whole blazer setup and use it.

There is a cover piece that covers the filler neck that goes right next to the wheelwell. I don't think it takes up that much usable space.

Problem is you have to weld in the filler neck and associated cover.

I have seen it done and its slick. Alot of work overall though.
 
I am in the same boat I need to replace both tanks! At least you could unbolt your cover ,I just cut it out with a sawz all!! I really thought the fuel return lines were leaking but I too wiped it down and I believe my leak is under the strap. So I guess misery loves company!!
 
If you do the jimmy/blazer tank the cover mentioned above that would be in the bed is still available from the dealer.I got mine new from gm and the original was held in with screws so I did the same with the replacement.You may have to remove one bed brace also because it will hit the filler pipe on the tank.I replaced the floor in my jimmy with a 6ft PU bed floor and had to remove one brace that was hitting.Another thing you could do is cut a fuel door section from a jimmy and weld it to your bed so the door is in the correct spot and opens the right direction.
 
Swapping over to the Blazer tank seems to be a lot of trouble. If I had a complete setup lying around, I might try to rig something up, but I think for now I'll just go with a stock style replacement. Every time it drips, it's like a dime hitting the ground ($3.85 per gallon :eek1:).

Maybe someone could post some pics of a conversion for me to look at...:popcorn:
 
i found this when i was searching for some info on that swap. i ended up putting new saddle tanks back in for the time being, later down the road i will be doing this swap, probably around the same time i tube frame the back half of my truck. (it's gonna be a while!)
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/blazertank.html
 
i made my own crossmebers for rear and front . :whistle:

thay still let wires past with notches in the sides. but are a lot stronger than stock and hold the 31 gal tank good.

just got to finish this truck . :whistle::whistle::whistle:

gas tank mounts 001.jpg

gas tank mounts 002.jpg

gas tank mounts 003.jpg

gas tank mounts 004.jpg

gas tank mounts 005.jpg
 
This does not bear directly on your problem, but its something to think about.

I had to pull the bed off my Ford about 3 years ago and replace it. While I had it off, I had to replace the back tank because mud and stuff had built up on top and rusted it it up pretty bad.

I also dropped the front tank to check it and replaced both pump/sending units.

The straps that hold the tanks on have a canvas type cover on them to help prevent wear.
Both tanks were shiny where that rubbed, and most of the coating was gone with slight amounts of rust starting to show up.

So, I did like I do when I install a tool box.

I painted the rusty places, then glued a strip of material to the tank where the strap touched.
Then, glued another strip to the strap.
Put a generous amount of grease on between the pieces.

This way, all the movement will be between the two pieces of material instead of rubbing either the strap or tank.

On toolboxes, I usually glue two pieces of tire tread with grease between. I have pulled boxes off after 10 years of high vibration use, and not found a speck of rust on either the box or body.
Other folks use just one piece of rubber with no glue, and when they pull it off, all the paint has been worn off both box and body with lots of rust along the edges and the metal is thin.

For the straps, you cannot use tire tread, its too thick.

I used the stuff they sell to go under bathtubs. Its called shower pan liner.
They sell it by the foot at Lowes and Home Depot.

This stuff. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100343454&R=100343454
 
Great ideas guys. Thanks. I picked up the new tank yesterday. It's just a parts store tank (made in Canada) that cost me $119 after tax. I'm just going to wait until the old tank is empty so I can put the new one on. I want the old one to be as light as possible and I don't want to waste any gas with the high prices now days. I wonder if I could put some kind of barrier between the skid plate and the tank like Fordum put under the straps. Ideas?
 
i have used bicycle inner tubes before in similar situations with good success. make sure they are thick, or double them up. i never thought of glueing them on and greasing them though, great idea!!
 
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