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Timing chain issues

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snotrocket71

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wading river new york
hey guys, long time no post, i've been working alot of hours at my new job (not that i'm complaining:D) and i've been screwing around with the 400 i picked up from one of our members.... i've got ALOT of stuff for it... rebuilt vortec heads with comp 1.52 roller tips and pushrods, comp xe262 (218/224 duration) edelbrock performer intake, MSD/streetfire distributor, flowtech shorty headers (for early IFS trucks) and a BUNCH of other goodies.... my question is this... i got a cloyes timing chain PN 9-1100 and the directions state to match the dots up as follows: crank sprocket 12 o'clock and cam sprocket 6 o'clock so the dots are "touching", is this right? i have pistons 1 and 6 at TDC and REALLY REALLY dont want to run into timing issues both cam and ignition... i've read that some guys do them both at 12 o'clock and dont have issues and some guys do as the directions stated, but thats the internet for ya i guess... if my explanation was too vague let me know, its much easier shown than explained...anyways any insight would be GREATLY appreciated, you guys are always good about this stuff so i have faith
 
You got it crank dot up cam dot down.If you want to get the most out of it degree it to the cam card specs.
 
Alot of people get confused because when the cam dot is at 6 o'clock position and the crank dot is at 12 o'clock position that is actually TDC for #6 cylinder BUT the reason you want to do it this way is because it is alot easier to line up the dots when they are so close together rather than both being at the 12 o'clock position and having to use some form of straight edge to make sure they are lined up properly. After the timing chain set is installed you turn the engine over one full revolution then both dots will be at the 12 o'clock position and you can then drop the distributor in correctly.
 
awesome, thank you guys so much and yes i plan on degreeing the cam... also on a strange note, the heads dont seem the sit on the block very well, like one of the dowel pins are holding it up. one pin goes in the head the other wont go in and it sits cockeyed... any thoughts on that one?
 
Th headbolts will draw it down no problem. You did drill the steam holes in the vortec heads before putting them on didn't you? If not it will overheat pretty quick.
 
snotrocket71 said:
awesome, thank you guys so much and yes i plan on degreeing the cam... also on a strange note, the heads dont seem the sit on the block very well, like one of the dowel pins are holding it up. one pin goes in the head the other wont go in and it sits cockeyed... any thoughts on that one?
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The head dowels are made to hold the head in the proper position for intake and valve alignment. The head bolts just hold it down. If the head won't sit flat figure out why before you just force it down with the bolts. I have never had a head not sit flat before I put a bolt in. It may be nothing but a tight dowel and it will go down OK, but you want to be sure you don't have a bent dowel pin or some old tricks were to use offset dowels to relocate the head (custom machining) and you could have a funny combination.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Th headbolts will draw it down no problem. You did drill the steam holes in the vortec heads before putting them on didn't you? If not it will overheat pretty quick.
Click to expand...
Yup i had the local machine shop do it.... i'll take another look at the dowel pins when i get a chance... i'm beat from work tonight
 
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