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Timing help PLEASE (im stressing lol) edit:stillneed help

outlawtorn

outlawtorn

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Well i just got done tearing my intake off to replace the leaking gasket. Well im down to the last step, which is getting it running :P but... i cant figure out my distributor. I set my timing to 0 or so my #1 piston was TDC and then i dropped my distrubtor on so that the rotor was facing the number one plug wire and set the cap on. I went to try and fire it up and it shot a fireball out the carb... tried again same thing. So im guessing im 180 off or something... i dont understand how though i did everything i needed to do i think ? Im young yet (16) so take it easy on me lol... i learn my stuff from trial and error.
 
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Did you try it 180 the other way yet ? It possibly is out . Remember the cam turns twice for every time the crank turns once .
 
Well i guess i dont understand the concept of turning it 180 like i thought i did.... When i first pulled the cap to look the rotor was facing 180 from the #1 wire... so i moved it 180 so it was pointing at the #1 wire again... nothing just smoke shooting out of the carb this time no fire. So then i pulled it moved it 180 from facing the #1 wire so it was back where it started and it does the same thing?
 
Make sure the plug wires are on in the correct order. It seems like no matter how careful I am, I get the order wrong 2 out of 3 times.
 
Timing at 0' is for TBI trucks, you want your base timing to be around 8' for carbed, HEI, non computer models.
 
I like this thread already. I don't know how to change the timing. Mine seems just a little off though. It runs, but I think the valve is opening up a little to early for the exhaust. (I only think I make sense, I really don't know) Could this have anything to do with the oversized RV cam the guy I bought it from says it has? It just feels like it's losing compression a little too soon.

P.S. Sorry if this is what is considered hijacking
 
high jackers...call the feds! j/k

Ignition timing has nothing to do with cam timing. You can adjust the ign timing to help a cam (like if it pinking (knocking) and you need to retard the ign a bit. On your year truck you can run a pretty big cam, it's TBI trucks that have problems with big cams. Often cam timing gears allow for a 4' advanced or retarded setting. One helps with low end grunt sacraficing top end power...the other is the opposite. Most people just set it straight up which is generally the best way. It could be that someone has offset yours.
Big cams can feel 'odd' at lower revs, often not coming on song 'till higher up the rev range. This is fine as long as your heads and manifold,exhaust etc is set up for it and ofcourse, if that's where you want your power!
 
So how do I set it straight up in the middle?

PS thanks for responding
 
Not a nice job when it's in the truck. You have to drop the oil pan, take everthing off the front of the motor that'll be in the way (like water pump etc) and take off the balancer (with the proper tools!) and pull the timing cover. Then rotate the motor till the marks line up and see where they're sitting.
Better to check first by pulling the rocker cover on the drivers side and degree the cam (if you have the specs?? Do you know/can you find out what cam it is?). If you can get the cam specs you check when the valve is starting to open with a degree wheel on the crank.
(or go by reputable speed shop and ask a mechanic "does this sound right to you?") :grin:
Seriously though...a lot of big cam have a real 'lope' to them at idle, almost like the choke is on all the time.
 
finding 1 tdc

Clynders #1 and #6 are paired. They both are at top of there stroke at the same time up 1 on the compression stroke and the other is on end of exhust/begining of intake. So you need #1 at tdc compression to stick your dist.
remove #1 spark plug stick your finger in the hole and bump the motor over, till you feel compression blowing past your thumb. Use a bar and socket you line up your timing marks to 0, should only be about 1 quater turn or so. #1 on the dist cap on chev motor can point at #2 the thermostat or #1 depends on your wires and
the amount of room you have to turn the dist for timing adjustments.
But go w/ pointing at #1. lock it down semi snugg, so you can turn it by hand but won't turn by itself w/ motor running. recheck the firing order on stock chev is 18436572. some new after market cams swap 4 and 7 now.
Give it a go
Wes
 
google said:
So how do I set it straight up in the middle?
Click to expand...

quote is refering to a cam timing gear set some after market crank gears come w/ 3 to 8 slots so you can retard or advance the cam. Degree'ing your cam is must and understanding the results is must if you don't want to take it apart agian. so most people set the cam at 0, ie straight up.
If your runs good and you have installed new timing gears in while your ok.
Wes
 
If it was running okay before you repaired the leak, then it's something you've done during the repair. Might help to know what engine are you trying to get running again?
 
its a small block 400... Everything is hooked up, ive ran over it atleast 6 times and i numbered the wires before i pulled them.
 
Is it possible you put the wires on the wrong direction? I get Mopar and Chevy confused, but one is clockwise and the other counter-clockwise. Make sure that is correct.
 
The firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 find the #1 distributor wire and go clockwise and trace each wire to its plug according to the firing order above.

If the wires are correct rotate the engine until the timing mark lines up on TDC or 0 degrees check the position of the rotor button, it should be pointing to either #6 plug wire or #1 wire if the position of the rotor button looks okay try and start the engine, if it backfires you will need to pull the distributor cap and note where the metal end of the rotor button is pointing.

Loosen the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor up until you can rotate the rotor button. Rotate the rotor button until it points in the opposite direction of where it was.

Reinstall the distributor making sure the rotor button doesn't move from where you moved it to tighten down the distributor enough that you can move it by hand, replace the cap and try to start it again.

If it tries to start turn the distributor counter clockwise about a half an inch, try to start the engine, keep doing this until the engine hopefully starts.

Whew!
 
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