chevyuser74
1/2 ton status
anyone done it? tips tricks u would need to know? or best just to leave it to the pros?
CK5
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tinting windows?
- Thread starter chevyuser74
- Start date
I tried it once on a Camaro outdoors on a windy day... it all ended up in the dumpster 
Ever since then, I have paid to have it done somewhere. I might try it again, but only on a window that is removed from the vehicle.
Ever since then, I have paid to have it done somewhere. I might try it again, but only on a window that is removed from the vehicle.
Zmaster265
Registered Member
I've done it. I've tinted three vehicles. It is not anything you need any special skills for. Worthwhile to do it yourself in my opinion. That is, if you're the patient type. Because it can be very frustrating. Very frustrating.
My advice is to try it. You can buy a roll of tint from Pep Boys, Autozone or the like. That'll cost any where from $15-$30 dollars depending on what you get. Then all you need is a very sharp razor blade or utility knife, a good squeegee, and a good spray bottle with a very slightly soapy solution. The blade should be sharp as possible to cut the tint film with ease. The squeegee is not totally necessary, you could use a bondo applicator or such, but it much, much easier with a proper squeegee. I've got one that's designed for tint application, it's just a big hunk of rubber about 3/4" thick that tapers to an edge. Works great. Also, don't skimp on the spray bottle, you want a proper one. A full-sized one with a lever trigger. The little dinky index finger ones are crap for this. Don't be tempted to buy a kit that has tint along with a spray bottle and knife and such because they're usually junk. The right tools will make or break your experience.
Do it in a garage if you can. There cannot be any wind. You are working with a big piece of sticky plastic film. Like a sheet of packing tape. Very touchy. You don't want it sticking to itself or creasing. Creases will be visible if you crease it. Also any dust or dirt that gets on the glue will make it look like crap. You basically have to be indoors if you are doing a car door.
The temperature is also important. It should be warm and dry enough so that the soap solution won't freeze and will evaporate quickly. Too hot however, and the solution will evaporate too quick and you won't be able to move the tint around. Direct sunlight is bad, dries the stuff right up, plus if you're in the car you bake.
If you can, cut a cardboard template of your window and use that to roughly cut the tint before you even get to the car. This makes it much easier. Two pairs of hands make it easier to pull the two layers apart...Curved glass requires several horizontal strips...You can even buy pre-cut tint pieces for the windows of most vehicles...
If you decide to do it and want instruction and/or have any more questions let me know.
My advice is to try it. You can buy a roll of tint from Pep Boys, Autozone or the like. That'll cost any where from $15-$30 dollars depending on what you get. Then all you need is a very sharp razor blade or utility knife, a good squeegee, and a good spray bottle with a very slightly soapy solution. The blade should be sharp as possible to cut the tint film with ease. The squeegee is not totally necessary, you could use a bondo applicator or such, but it much, much easier with a proper squeegee. I've got one that's designed for tint application, it's just a big hunk of rubber about 3/4" thick that tapers to an edge. Works great. Also, don't skimp on the spray bottle, you want a proper one. A full-sized one with a lever trigger. The little dinky index finger ones are crap for this. Don't be tempted to buy a kit that has tint along with a spray bottle and knife and such because they're usually junk. The right tools will make or break your experience.
Do it in a garage if you can. There cannot be any wind. You are working with a big piece of sticky plastic film. Like a sheet of packing tape. Very touchy. You don't want it sticking to itself or creasing. Creases will be visible if you crease it. Also any dust or dirt that gets on the glue will make it look like crap. You basically have to be indoors if you are doing a car door.
The temperature is also important. It should be warm and dry enough so that the soap solution won't freeze and will evaporate quickly. Too hot however, and the solution will evaporate too quick and you won't be able to move the tint around. Direct sunlight is bad, dries the stuff right up, plus if you're in the car you bake.
If you can, cut a cardboard template of your window and use that to roughly cut the tint before you even get to the car. This makes it much easier. Two pairs of hands make it easier to pull the two layers apart...Curved glass requires several horizontal strips...You can even buy pre-cut tint pieces for the windows of most vehicles...
If you decide to do it and want instruction and/or have any more questions let me know.
h0wl0ngcanitbe
1/2 ton status
I think you about covered it i was plannin on retinting my windows soon and this thread covered it! thanks for the post up!!!
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
interesting that someone that has tinted up 3 vehicles using extremely inferior window film from an auto parts store is giving advise on how to tint windows.
Yeah, you can do this, but its pretty much a guarantee it's gonna turn out pretty bad, and even worse it definately will not last as long as the actual professional quality films.
There is actuall a ton more to it than just cutting, cleaning and slapping it on. i know, i do it for a living, yeah, i guess i don't have any skills either
.
basically the info given is very basic info, and an actual procedure is learned and required for a professional quality application.
it would take me too long to type it all out on here, so not goin to.
My opinion, is if you want a long lasting, professional quality job, pay for it to be done right.
Yeah, you can do this, but its pretty much a guarantee it's gonna turn out pretty bad, and even worse it definately will not last as long as the actual professional quality films.
There is actuall a ton more to it than just cutting, cleaning and slapping it on. i know, i do it for a living, yeah, i guess i don't have any skills either
.basically the info given is very basic info, and an actual procedure is learned and required for a professional quality application.
it would take me too long to type it all out on here, so not goin to.
My opinion, is if you want a long lasting, professional quality job, pay for it to be done right.
Zmaster265
Registered Member
I didn't intend to demean your experience or your job, man. The guy asked for information, I tried to provide. Of course you are correct that there are different qualities of tint available, and that a professional installation will be generally of a higher quality than a layman's. However, everything I wrote is true and accurate.
chevyuser74
1/2 ton status
interesting that someone that has tinted up 3 vehicles using extremely inferior window film from an auto parts store is giving advise on how to tint windows.
Yeah, you can do this, but its pretty much a guarantee it's gonna turn out pretty bad, and even worse it definately will not last as long as the actual professional quality films.
There is actuall a ton more to it than just cutting, cleaning and slapping it on. i know, i do it for a living, yeah, i guess i don't have any skills either
basically the info given is very basic info, and an actual procedure is learned and required for a professional quality application.
it would take me too long to type it all out on here, so not goin to.
My opinion, is if you want a long lasting, professional quality job, pay for it to be done right.
how much does your shop charge a window or how ever u do that?
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
no biggie, it was too late/early when i wrote that, i understand what you were trying to say and get at, but the information is kinda vague and very basic, and cardboard templates? 
anyhoo,
i don't work in a shop, i am doing this on my own, was trained by a 20 year veteran, and although i haven't been doing it for as many years, or even close to that, i have already done enough vehicles to lose count, and STILL have issues now and then with dirt particles getting under the tint, it's annoying, but there are still things i learn on every tint job.
if you'are asking about a truck, like ours, for thw two front doors, the rates vary from person to person, i usually get $50-70, some actual shops may charge around $75, i wouldn't pay much more than that though for just the two doors.
anyhoo,i don't work in a shop, i am doing this on my own, was trained by a 20 year veteran, and although i haven't been doing it for as many years, or even close to that, i have already done enough vehicles to lose count, and STILL have issues now and then with dirt particles getting under the tint, it's annoying, but there are still things i learn on every tint job.
if you'are asking about a truck, like ours, for thw two front doors, the rates vary from person to person, i usually get $50-70, some actual shops may charge around $75, i wouldn't pay much more than that though for just the two doors.
You get what you "pay" for. The window films sold at the auto parts place are inferior. So are tools at HF, but we still use them.
I've used the inferior crap on several cars. It scratches and changes color after a while. I'm getting ready to pull it off my DD that I did 8 years ago. It needs to be redone.
The stuff is cheap, it's fairly easy to get the film on. It's hard to get it to look like a pro installation. Windy or even slight breezes make installation impossible.
Our windows are straight with no curves = easy
If you can tolerate what it looks like - go for it. If you want an absolute prefect installation - you won't get that the first time out of the gate.
Here's a pretty good link:
http://www.thesunshieldpros.us/do_it_yourself.html#2
I've used the inferior crap on several cars. It scratches and changes color after a while. I'm getting ready to pull it off my DD that I did 8 years ago. It needs to be redone.
The stuff is cheap, it's fairly easy to get the film on. It's hard to get it to look like a pro installation. Windy or even slight breezes make installation impossible.
Our windows are straight with no curves = easy
If you can tolerate what it looks like - go for it. If you want an absolute prefect installation - you won't get that the first time out of the gate.
Here's a pretty good link:
http://www.thesunshieldpros.us/do_it_yourself.html#2
I need to do this on my rear window. I opened the tailgate, closed the latches, and rolled the window out. Supported it on a work bench.
Actually was doing pretty good on the isntall, and go impatient and didnt' keep it wet enough, and it creased. It was a BIG surface to do for my first time.
I think i'll probably get it done. Any good mobile guys in the south bay?
Actually was doing pretty good on the isntall, and go impatient and didnt' keep it wet enough, and it creased. It was a BIG surface to do for my first time.
I think i'll probably get it done. Any good mobile guys in the south bay?
Zmaster265 nailed it. The only thing i can add is that for windows with a large curve to them a heat gun is your friend, just have to be careful to be far enough away to not melt the tint. I have a friend who has been tinting windows for about 25 years now. He started out as a hobby in his garage then opened a shop and now he is mobile and mainly does commercial building stuff.
I'm thinking after the first try, if i try again i'll do this. THere was some creases/bubbles that wouldnt' go away.....i think from teh curvature.
