Tips needed on buying a suburban

[77crewcab]

I am thinking of buying a 96 Sub for my wife and for vactions, and am wondering what are some things I should look out for or check before buying. I am not familiar with this body style at all really. Any tips are usefull
Equiped as follows:
1996 c1500
116k
5.7 Vortec 250hp/330tq?
4l60e
leather
rear air
cd
reese class III receiver
3rd seat
barn doors
tinted windows
Navy/Navy

Thanks for educating me!

 

[bigred81]

Some of the common problems with the newer style chevys is at about 120,000 miles the fuel pump starts to give trouble, intake gaskets start to leak, ande alternators are very poor. Other than that these are some really dependent subs. I have had several come in the shop with 200,000 to 300,000 miles but they were well taken care of. Some questions to ask them is how old is the fuel pump because they are very expensive(about $400), if it has ever had intake gaskets, and smell the trans oil to see if it is burn or discolored, ask if it has ever had an alternator, and start it up to listen for a rod knock or main knock on startup because of an oil cooler. I am not trying to stop you from buying it but this is some of the common problems I have had with the newer chevy's that have come through the shop. Fix those common problems and they will last almost for ever. Hope this helps you out some.

bigred81

 

[77crewcab]

Am I correct in thinking they are about as easy to work on as the 73-91 body style? So like the gaskets and such can be done easily in a driveway is what I am wondering. Parts availibility about the same? Mileage around 15-17 combined driving. The price on the fuel pump is that parts price or labor included? How well does the a/c work to cool off the inside with the dual air?Any use in looking at one of the superchips or hypertech style tuners to get some more power or fuel economy?

 

[bigred81]

The A/C cools real good on those models but I forgot to list the compressor as one more weak link and it normally quits about 150,000 miles. Listen to the compressor to see if it sounds like it is knocking or clicking real good this is a sign that the compressor is on its last foot and it likes to leak around the two case halfs of the compressor. The cost I told you about early is the cost of the fuel pump only because it is an all in one fuel pump. Parts are easy to get and the intake gaskets are not to bad to change but you need a tech 2 to set the timing. On the newer chevy's the timing has to be plus or minus 2 degrees or it will set a check engine light and there are no timing marks on the timing cover or balancer. If you get it put new plugs in it because the factory plugs are good to 100,000 and will go longer. Put a new set of A/C Delcos because you will get very good service out of them but they cost a little more than normal plugs because the are platuim tipped. You can try a programer but I have had more power gains by putting in a K&N airfilter, knocking the honey cone screen out of MAF but do not touch the fine wires that run across on the inside of the MAF thats what it uses to sense air temp, take the air silencer off the back side of the airpleum/ plug the hole with a cap, and if memory services me right there is a baffle in the fender you can take out to help it get more air flow. With these few mods to my s-10 and my parents sub I noticed a big difference with a little more air noise from under the hood. Hope this helps out some. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

bigred81

 

[77crewcab]

I think that about all I was wondering. Hopefully come the first of the year she will be mine...Er I mean the wife's