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Tips on replacing body mount bushings

dasanii19

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Oct 11, 2006
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How do I get the bolts out of my body mount bushings? I can see the bolt and but on the front body mounts but what about the rest? How would I get to the nuts?
 
the nuts are captured up in the cab supports... 50/50 shot whether they come out, or spin in the cage... not uncommon to have to cut a window in the flor to get at em if spinning....

the bed ones are carriage bolts, the ones in the rad support are regular bolts..

that kit looks like the right one.. I'd plan on new bolts.. you'll also need to reuse the factory cup washers on the 4 under the cab..

perfect time to go 1' body, comes with bolts too.
 
If I Put a 1" body lift on will I have to modify or extend anything like you would have to with a 3"?
 
you'll have to ditch your tailgate springs.. shroud needs a minor trim.. i have a cable shifter so i can't tell ya there, but that should be ok...
 
I will definitly take the 1" into consideration.

Can you give me a quick run down on the whole install if it isnt too complicated? Do I install one bushing at a time? I was thinking one at a time so I dont shift the body too much on accident if I were to take everything loose at once. Ive never done this so any tips will be great, I cant find any info on it in my manual :confused:
 
Soak the snot out of them with liquid wrench or PBB panther piss before you try and break them loose.
 
best way to do it is one side at a time... crack em loose on one side, then undo the otherside completely. floorjack it up as needed.. install, tighten to snug.. do other side... tighten all...
 
Ok, thanks. Sounds easy enough ( or did I speak too soon?)

Can you tell me how many mounts are on my 76'?

Also, if I put that 1" body lift on will my rear bumper be dropped down and look funny? if so, how would I go about tucking it back up to the body?
 
oh, it can be a real b*tch... depending on the rust... can definitely test your tool resources..

not sure on 76, iirc my 77 had 10...

your bumpers will be dropped an inch... doesn't look too bad, barely noticable.. i've been running around like that till i do tube bumpers...

i would think you could redrill/mod factory bumper brackets easy enough to move it up...
 
Alright sounds good. So If I do a 1" ill have to get longer bolts right. Can I match these bolt at a specialty hardware shop or do I have to buy them from an auto sorce via, LMC/summit ect. ect. ?
 
they come with the 1" kit... check out ORD...
 
ryoken said:
the nuts are captured up in the cab supports... 50/50 shot whether they come out, or spin in the cage... not uncommon to have to cut a window in the flor to get at em if spinning....

the bed ones are carriage bolts, the ones in the rad support are regular bolts..

that kit looks like the right one.. I'd plan on new bolts.. you'll also need to reuse the factory cup washers on the 4 under the cab..

perfect time to go 1' body, comes with bolts too.

So your saying the nuts are welded to the body in the cab support area? (makes sense) Your saying they can bust and then thats when ill have to cut a "window" right?

Also, how do I get liquid wrench up in there, isnt the bolt covered by the bushing? I mean I cant spray it from the top, how do I get this stuff soaked on the bolt?

Ive been spraying my leaf spring bushing bolts every day with WD40 ( im going to be replacing those as well) Do you think thats doing any good? or do I need to get some liquid wrench?
 
yup. they're inside, you can't soak those 4.. the back 4 nuts can be soaked tho. rad support too.. and yeah, if the caged nuts spin, you can cut a window in the floor...

wd-40 is pretty much useless.. go get some PB Blaster, Sea Foams "deep creep", kroil or some other rust buster...
 
I think you answered all my questions, thanks for taking the time to answer them for me.
 
I ended up having to cut & grind 2 or 3 of the bolts. One of them the bolt broke and only rust was holding it in:eek1::eek1: It was still hard to break loose with a punch and BFH!

The bolts in the bed have a bead of weld to the body as well you'll need to grind off as well.

I decided I'm just going to use grade 8 hex heads as replacements:rolleyes:
 
Well where the body mounts are under the cab, I see some rust on the floor so im going to have to replace that anyways.

What gauge sheet metal do I use? Do I just cut the rot out and weld new sheet metal in there then hit it with some primer?
 
Where I work we have 24 gauge, wil that be thick enough? Or do I need something thicker like 20?
 
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