Like title says what are your tips and tricks for setting up 12 bolt with new ring and pinion with new posi unit?
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CK5
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tips/tricks 12 bolt set up help
- Thread starter brans87
- Start date
whoa shocked no input!
Bout the same as any. Try and run a pattern with stock shims. Try to make setup bearings. I tend to add shims to both sides of the carrier and beat it in ( brass hammer) to obtain some type of carrier bearing preload. Been many years since I have done a 12 bolt.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I'd be willing to bet most of the guys/people on this board haven't really dealt with setting up new gears in a 10/12 bolt. They're about that same and most usually end up just swapping out with a new used one or replace it for a 14 bolt full float.
Some of us have other rides besides K5 etc. Wife has a 67 C10 short bed and I also have a 72 Chevelle. Looking for any tips is all been about 8 yrs since done a set and have it all apart and cleaned up.
Get a crush sleeve eliminator. No real 12 bolt specific tips or tricks I have ever found
like this Ratech solid spacer idea!!!!!
Also going to clean new gears with brake clean and go over ring gear with sand paper on piece of glass, clean again and blow gears off with compressed air. Wondering if I can get away with old pinion shim size for new pinion? Though of honing out old bearing to slide on and off pinion just in case. Have seal drivers, and dial indicator etc.
Trying to find out how to rear the old stamped depth code. Do know in top of old pinon have 4 - makes on the gears of pinon. Any clue on reading depth code?
Trying to find out how to rear the old stamped depth code. Do know in top of old pinon have 4 - makes on the gears of pinon. Any clue on reading depth code?
Have been reading it 
good info there but seems some steers toward bigger axles then my 12 bolt for the 67. Best Link found so far and had it pulled up for a day now.
good info there but seems some steers toward bigger axles then my 12 bolt for the 67. Best Link found so far and had it pulled up for a day now.
its all basicly the same . the ideas don't change just the way they do it some times. IE : shims or threaded collers . shims under bearing race for pinion depth or under bolt in housing .
Looking for little help maybe advice that I have over looked something while trying to get pinion part set up. I installed inner and outer races,original shim that was under the original pinion,new bearings and ratech solid spacer with 3 shims like directions say and I get this
first pic is as far as bearing will sit in. second pic shows pinion out and on bench with that shame bearing sitting as far down as it goes like a lip on it for bearing to stop. third is how it should all go together but the yoke is missing from it. So can I get little help? Yes built few rear axles before but have not seen this. All parts are NEW but housing itself.
some setups are slight press fit . might have to tap it on . if I recall I think I had to on my 12 bolt when I refreshed it with solid spacer and true trac swap in .
you should try 14ff the yoke is pressed on .
you should try 14ff the yoke is pressed on .
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Indeed. While that does seem higher on the splines than normal the outer bearing will have a slight press fit. Make sure theres no burrs on the spline just to be safe.
Often times I've had to get the bearing going down with a non locking but and no washer before.
Often times I've had to get the bearing going down with a non locking but and no washer before.
I have only built 3 of these, but they all took some hammer work to get the bearing onto the pinion far enough to use the yoke to pull it on. We used a solid spacer in my son's axle, and that made it easier. Getting a crush sleeve started is a pain! Like was already posted, setup bearings can make things easier. I made my own with good used ones. I used a brake hone to make them less of a press fit.
The outer bearing is a "tight" fit. Not a press fit per say. I just slide the yoke on, put a piece of pipe in with one of the u joint straps to hold the yoke, and tighten the nut.
You just want it snug for setting up, reading pattern, getting backlash.
Then when you are in the specs you want, use an in lb bar type torque wrench to get the correct pinion bearing preload.
I think people make too big a deal over crush sleeves. Im a twig and have managed to set up 6 of them now in different axle setups over the last year.
You just want it snug for setting up, reading pattern, getting backlash.
Then when you are in the specs you want, use an in lb bar type torque wrench to get the correct pinion bearing preload.
I think people make too big a deal over crush sleeves. Im a twig and have managed to set up 6 of them now in different axle setups over the last year.
Back on track as I talked to a buddy today at work in the top shop who use to own a 4x4 shop and did a lot of setups, he said normal I have just been lucky on others I have done that the yoke went on easy. So yes I have a new yoke on order and tool to hold yoke while tightening pinion now to specs before checking preload (also a tax write off ). So you guy's where right have to use nice flat thick piece of metal and tap yoke on to get washer and nut started. Thanks for all input and starting to feel more at home here. 
). So you guy's where right have to use nice flat thick piece of metal and tap yoke on to get washer and nut started. Thanks for all input and starting to feel more at home here.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I agree, but it only takes one oddball ridiculous crush collar to change a persons feelings...
I did my buddys dana 35 for his cherokee with him. I made a tool to hold the yoke, it was a 4 foot bar welded to a piece of box tube that bolted to the ubolt straps and a hole in the middle for the socket. My other friend brought over a 24in snap on breaker bar that was THICK. Like it should have been a 1in drive kinda thick. I was nervous as I watched my very strong friend bend that snap on breaker bar into a banana trying to get that friggin crush collar started...
