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Tire size for M1008

rivermtnman

rivermtnman

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
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Location
Lebanon, VA
I just picked up a '85 M1008 and was wondering if I could fit some 34x10.50-17 LTB's on 17x8 rims under the thing. Anybody got a clue? Just saw 4W&OR put 37x13.50-17 Pro Comps under one with a 4" lift and dont believe they trimmed fenders at all.
 
I run Q78-15 TSL's on just a 2" BL with no trimming. The tires measure out to about a 36x10.5. It depends on your BS, but im gonna say they will be kissing the fenders with a rim that wide. You may have to trim the corners.
 
What width wheel and bs are you running joez? I wouldnt have problem trimming, thought I may have to get back corners of the front fenders. I could also go 34x10.50-16's on 8" rim, Interco says overall height is .2-.3" smaller on 16's than the 17's. Just thought get 17's(only few bucks difference) incase needed bigger wheel for later mod's(what I dont know, rear disc brakes??).
 
I run 5.5" wide mystery steelies with about 3.5-3.75" backspacing. Most people think they look like they would rub, but are suprised that they dont.

This pic wont be here long, but will give you an idea of how close they look like they are to the fender.

15725Pb200024_resize.jpg
 
rivermtnman said:
What width wheel and bs are you running joez? I wouldnt have problem trimming, thought I may have to get back corners of the front fenders. I could also go 34x10.50-16's on 8" rim, Interco says overall height is .2-.3" smaller on 16's than the 17's. Just thought get 17's(only few bucks difference) incase needed bigger wheel for later mod's(what I dont know, rear disc brakes??).
Click to expand...
No reason to run 17's...16's will clear any brakes you choose to run. I run 15" rims on my one ton stuff with rear disc's. The rear is not a problem at all, however the front needs a fair bit of caliper reshaping to run 15's. You will likely have to trim the bottom corners off the fenders no matter what...

Rene
 
I ran 34x10.5-16 LTB's on 8" wide wheels with minor fender trimming with no lift and no rubbing.
 
Thanks y'all for the helpful info, am getting ready to buy new set, but went out this morning and wouldnt start. Never had diesel before, dont know where to start to troubleshoot, was worried might have problems with diesel before I had a chance to learn about them. Had been surging when I let off from WOT(or close to @60mph) ever since I bought it. Kinda miss my blazer now, but wanted D60/14b 4.56 gears and the detroit locker. Ah I get it running, hope it aint injector pump.
 
Surging is usually air in the lines. Look for a leaky fuel line or loose fitting somewhere. The no-start means it's likely air-locked now.


Rene
 
rivermtnman said:
Thanks y'all for the helpful info, am getting ready to buy new set, but went out this morning and wouldnt start. Never had diesel before, dont know where to start to troubleshoot, was worried might have problems with diesel before I had a chance to learn about them. Had been surging when I let off from WOT(or close to @60mph) ever since I bought it. Kinda miss my blazer now, but wanted D60/14b 4.56 gears and the detroit locker. Ah I get it running, hope it aint injector pump.
Click to expand...
Check this post for some good info.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69490

Casey explains how to bleed the fuel system about halfway down.

Also might want to check your glow plugs just for good measure. Use a test light. One end on the pos batt terminal, then tough the probe to the tang on the end of each glow plug. If the light lights up the glow plug is good, if not the glow plug is bad. Also at lower temps you might need to plug the truck in to help it start in the morning. Lastly, at temps below freezing you should have the throttle between halfway and all the way to the floor at start up.

Rene
 
Thanks tRustyK5! Have read here how to check glow plugs, does it matter if I leave wire on glow plug or not? It's been so cold here lately, but I started it last week at 8 degrees on forth try(thought I was starting to get hang of it).

Ordered a military manual offline on a cd-rom, was waiting on it and maybe to warm up some this week.

Was looking for a block heater, but looks like the plug in the grille is just what military used jumper cables. Something I'm missing?
 
Follow the plug in the grill and see where it goes. If it is your standard 3-prong 110V house plug, it should be the block heater, but you will want to trace it anyway to make sure it is hooked up properly. If you dont have one, you can pick one up at the local auto parts store for arround $15.

If you are just getting the hang of it and got it started in 8*, id say you are off to a bright start.
 
Nah Joez, it's a military waterproof plug, female, single hole bout finger size, and has two(I think) wires going back to firewall where the battery cabling is. Thought I read here somewhere that military used to jump start. Could be wrong though(still learning).

Yeah I thought I was getting the hang of it too, till it wouldnt start today, lol. It's got instructions on visor on how to start(found after a week, pumping like carb style, haha)
 
rivermtnman said:
Thanks tRustyK5! Have read here how to check glow plugs, does it matter if I leave wire on glow plug or not? It's been so cold here lately, but I started it last week at 8 degrees on forth try(thought I was starting to get hang of it).

Ordered a military manual offline on a cd-rom, was waiting on it and maybe to warm up some this week.

Was looking for a block heater, but looks like the plug in the grille is just what military used jumper cables. Something I'm missing?
Click to expand...
You should be able to back probe the plug on each glow plug...or just unclip it, then test and reclip it.

Rene
 
LOL, I know this post has wandered from tire size to hard starts, like a new ford's steering, but just to update y'all on my start problem. I put batteries on charge this evening, and checked glow plugs with test light. 3 glow plugs showed no good. Is that enough to keep from starting in 20-30* weather? What's the lifespan of these things? Could I have done something to ruin them? Best or favorite replacements? Am going to Napa tomorrow evening.
 
I think the new SSdiesel and Kennedy Diesel quick heats are looking like the best. I thought AC60G's were, until i burned 4 out. Yes, 3 bad glow plugs is enough to make it a PITA to start in the cold. Thats 3 less cylinders firing on startup. They can and do burn out over time, kinof like a light bulb. They eventually burn out and need to be replaced.

If it were me, i would be ordering a set of quick heats from Kennedy Diesel.
 
Thanks Joez, Do you replace all at once, or just the bad ones? Do you replace every 10 or 20k miles? Sorry for all the questions, not got my manual yet.
 
I'd replace all 8 with the quick heats. If you burn any of those out in the future you could replace them one at a time...but as far as I know they have a 2 year warranty.

As Joez already stated 3 dead will make it a pain to start in colder temps. I have 3 or 4 dead myself and at 35 degrees it'll start, but it runs rough for a while and is kinda smoky. If I plug it in for an hour or two before starting it it's fine.

I will be ordering the quick heats myself, and chucking my AC60G's in the garbage.

Rene
 
Yup, they have the 2 year warantee. When i get back from my vacation ill be ordering up a set of the Quick Heats myself as well, these AC60G's are junk. I dont care what everyone else says about them.
 
Bought 3 Autolite glow plugs today and and new fuel filter. Bled the fuel system, and it fired almost instantly. Shew!!!, thats a load off(just a little worried). Now that its running, I can plan on getting tires and wheels maybe next weekend, yahoo! It's still got that surge, I'll keep checking for leaks. Oh yeah, I got the quick heats in the mail later this evening(couldnt wait, figures). Will change them all out in a couple of days. Can you believe they charged $10 apiece for the autolite's, (dang). Hopefully post a picture with tires and wheels shortly.
 
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