I've been wheeling an 8.5 10 bolt for years now with 35 inch tires. I would like to switch to 37 inch tires, I already know the 10 bolt will fail this mod. But I do have a nice, clean 9.5 14 bolt and I also have a 10.5 14 bolt. Both with 4.11 gears to match my front 10 bolt. I would normally choose the 10.5 for obvious reasons but it needs completely overhauled and after buying the 37's, my wife's going to cut me off. My question is, if I lock the 9.5 would it handle 37's in Moab on trails like Poison Spider, Golden Spike, etc.? I'm pretty easy on the throttle, so my truck doesn't get abused by any means.
CK5
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tire size vs. axle size
- Thread starter maxgforce
- Start date
From the guys on here running that setup, and the fact that you say you don't wheel with the skinny pedal.
Id bet you will be just fine with the 9.5
If you havnt blown the rear ten bolt on 35s wheeling it... That would only help my first statement.
I blew mine on 33s in a field the other weeknd
Id bet you will be just fine with the 9.5
If you havnt blown the rear ten bolt on 35s wheeling it... That would only help my first statement.
I blew mine on 33s in a field the other weeknd
unless the 35s are bald, stay with them while you build the 14bff. Do it right first time. Run the locker and keep the front open. (keep spare front shafts and joints) Being easy on the throttle will save the front as long as possible.
Since you actually wheel it, (instead of road queen) don't spend money on the 10b. Run it while you save for a D60. Hopefully you have some junkyards around to pick up some spare shafts for cheap. ( I can get full sets, 50% off days, for about $35)
Since you actually wheel it, (instead of road queen) don't spend money on the 10b. Run it while you save for a D60. Hopefully you have some junkyards around to pick up some spare shafts for cheap. ( I can get full sets, 50% off days, for about $35)
I would absolutely not be scared to use the 9.5" rear end for your use.
If you decide to step up to 40"+ tires, think about the 10.5".
If you decide to step up to 40"+ tires, think about the 10.5".
I'm sure someone, somewhere has destroyed a 9.5" from tire size + throttle, but I've yet to see mention of it.
xenomarine
1/2 ton status
I kill't one on 35's in less than a year, but I was a mean son of a bitch to that thing. I didn't actually put the final nail in the coffin though. Sold it to a friend dirt cheap and it would do posi burnouts (it was an open rear end) and it spit out the spiders less than a month later. You'll probably be fine though. I had mine bouncing on rocks, HARD.
I have a 9.5 that I put in a trail truck about 4 years ago and beat hard with everything from 35s-37s with welded spider gears. Even street driven at 60+mph. That truck is now gone and I have the rear end in another vehicle with 36s.
Its the only part of the original truck that never broke. to put it in perspective I blew up 3 engines, broke a th350 case, multiple 10 bolt front axles, several driveshafts front and rear and the final kicker was breaking the frame in half when it slammed down on a rock, I wasn't very nice to it.
Its the only part of the original truck that never broke. to put it in perspective I blew up 3 engines, broke a th350 case, multiple 10 bolt front axles, several driveshafts front and rear and the final kicker was breaking the frame in half when it slammed down on a rock, I wasn't very nice to it.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
The 14sf can handle up to 38s I've heard. Your front is what I'd be worried about. Without hardened shafts and a quality gearset it may not last long. Make sure as others have said have spare shafts for the ten bolt.
I'm pretty sure Russell runs a 9.5 in penny.... So if it can stay together with a duramax, and I think, 38 inch tires, you'll be fine. I blew one up, but it was the carrier. It was factory with the gov bomb, and the truck had 350,000 miles on it...
As others have stated, the 9.5 SF is plenty strong for all but the most severe duty. FF's are stronger, and do have the advantage of having more parts available for them. They seem to be more common also, but I can't say for sure.
The SF does have some advantages though:
Smaller ring gear means more ground clearance. This can be helpful if you aren't running huge tires (Mine is only on 33's).
Less weight. It's still a heavy SOB, but not on the order of a FF. And weight does matter.
If you are keeping drum brakes, it will be probably be easier to retain your parking brake than with a FF. If you want to upgrade to discs though, forget it, I think just about all the conversion kits are for the FF.
The SF does have some advantages though:
Smaller ring gear means more ground clearance. This can be helpful if you aren't running huge tires (Mine is only on 33's).
Less weight. It's still a heavy SOB, but not on the order of a FF. And weight does matter.
If you are keeping drum brakes, it will be probably be easier to retain your parking brake than with a FF. If you want to upgrade to discs though, forget it, I think just about all the conversion kits are for the FF.
FF also wont lose a wheel/shaft if ya snap it...
I think the telltale is rims, some are VERY intent on keeping their 6 lugs...
I think the telltale is rims, some are VERY intent on keeping their 6 lugs...
I never really understood that given the easy availability of decent 8 lug wheels, but I prefer simple, inexpensive wheels on these trucks, I guess I can see it if one has a lot invested in their original wheels.
I concur...
the big benefit in that regard imo, of going with the SF and retaining 6, is not having to do ANYTHING with the front.... FF forces you to do something..
the big benefit in that regard imo, of going with the SF and retaining 6, is not having to do ANYTHING with the front.... FF forces you to do something..
chicken joe
1/2 ton status
the main reason im keeping the 6 bolt rims is i just got a set of cyclone 6 bolt painted blue to match the truck. and i only have 6 bolt axles. if/when i need to replace an axle im going 8 bolt
The 9.5 that I have is an 8 lug, don't know if it's stronger than the 9.5 six lug. Anyway thanks to all for your input, think I'm going to use the 9.5 until I get the chance or money I should say to rebuild the 10.5
B.N.Z.MTNS
Elevation 8,500’
I ran a 9.5 SF open in my old truck rolling 38's with a built 400ci and never hurt it. Then I swapped the whole setup over to my current K5 and still held it all together. I was never worried about the rear, it was the front 10b that I knew would give up on me someday. I always wheeled in 2wd when possible to save stress on the front so I would say the rear took more abuse than necessary.
However, with some of the high, remote and desolate places that I take my family wheeling; I did finally step up to tons. It wasn't because of any issues with the previous axles but more for peace of mind when I was out playing a bit hard. I never want to have to hike my 3 yr old and wife down a mountain from 13,000 elevation.
So the short answer (IMO) is that it will work fine and you should be more concerned with the front axle.
Good luck
However, with some of the high, remote and desolate places that I take my family wheeling; I did finally step up to tons. It wasn't because of any issues with the previous axles but more for peace of mind when I was out playing a bit hard. I never want to have to hike my 3 yr old and wife down a mountain from 13,000 elevation.
So the short answer (IMO) is that it will work fine and you should be more concerned with the front axle.
Good luck
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