CK5
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Tire size
- Thread starter C/K_kid
- Start date
I'd say a 255/85/16. stock would be 235/85 maybe?
yes the 255/85/16 but the side walls can be super close or possible rub depending on the style tread of the tire .
235/85/16 is stock + 31.4" or so
255/85/16 = 33.0" tall .
if you want to run wheel spacers you NEED the correct spacers that bolt on after the inner tire and then give you a HUB CENTER ring for the outer rim to center off of or the outer wheel can be off center and possible wobble around off center of the inner .
the only true correct spacers i have seen are made of steel and can be $250 to $350 range depending on the width needed .
235/85/16 is stock + 31.4" or so
255/85/16 = 33.0" tall .
if you want to run wheel spacers you NEED the correct spacers that bolt on after the inner tire and then give you a HUB CENTER ring for the outer rim to center off of or the outer wheel can be off center and possible wobble around off center of the inner .
the only true correct spacers i have seen are made of steel and can be $250 to $350 range depending on the width needed .
Bias are fine if don't mind flat spots in the morning or when sitting for awhile.
I wouldn't run bias ply on a street vehicle. My 66 C20 had bias ply on the front when I bought it. First couple of times I drove it, I thought the front end was in serious need of a rebuild. I put radials on and it was a night and improvement. Front end feels just fine now.
i use to run 38x12.50x16.5 bias ply super swampers at 25psi and under 1 mile at most each day flats were gone .
I think any larger tire will flat spot to some degree. I feel like my 37 and 40 inch radials both require a little warm up to smooth out.
Back when I put new 8:75x16.5 Cooper 6 ply bias ply snow tires on my '72 K5,it would just about shake the body off its mounts on cold mornings for 10+ miles,felt like they were square until the finally warmed up...they were nylon cord,which was likely why..you could run curbs over at speed and dent the rims and never hurt those tires,but they were super stiff..
I had other bias ply tires on it rated 4 ply that were not that way at all--but once I drove it with radial tires,I never put another bias ply on anything I drove after that..it was night & day difference..rode much smoother,no wobbling,steering wheel jitters,etc..better traction too..
I had a '67 Impala that had bias ply tires on 14" stock steel rims and the thing always pulled to the ditch side on certain roads,or would zig and zag if you hit a patch of new tar--I figured it needed an alignment or ball joints,etc,but everything checked out ok...
I bought for 15" steel rims with LR-78-15 radials off a 70's Monte Carlo from a salvage yard ,after I put those on it I was amazed,it rode and handled like a Coupe DeVille compared to before!..no more pulling,darting around,and it went over bumps like it had new springs & shocks..its amazing how much different tires can make,and brand to brand can act differently too..
That was the first car I had that didn't have any "mismatched" tires ,previously every car I had,had at least one tire that was a different brand,or ply rating,different belt construction,size (like 70 series,and the other 3 were 78 series),etc...putting a set of 4 new matched tires on can make a new vehicle out of it!..
Some of my trucks though,don't seem to care what tires I run,my '82 GMC has 4 different ones on it now--a BF Goodrich 8 ply TA up front,the other front tire is a Cooper 255/70-16,and the two rear ones came off salvage yard trucks,the spares that never touched the ground,one is a 4 ply and the other is a 6 ply..truck doesn't seem any different than when I had 4 tires all matching sizes,plys and brands on it..I think the heavier the vehicle the less it seems to show up somehow..
I had other bias ply tires on it rated 4 ply that were not that way at all--but once I drove it with radial tires,I never put another bias ply on anything I drove after that..it was night & day difference..rode much smoother,no wobbling,steering wheel jitters,etc..better traction too..
I had a '67 Impala that had bias ply tires on 14" stock steel rims and the thing always pulled to the ditch side on certain roads,or would zig and zag if you hit a patch of new tar--I figured it needed an alignment or ball joints,etc,but everything checked out ok...
I bought for 15" steel rims with LR-78-15 radials off a 70's Monte Carlo from a salvage yard ,after I put those on it I was amazed,it rode and handled like a Coupe DeVille compared to before!..no more pulling,darting around,and it went over bumps like it had new springs & shocks..its amazing how much different tires can make,and brand to brand can act differently too..
That was the first car I had that didn't have any "mismatched" tires ,previously every car I had,had at least one tire that was a different brand,or ply rating,different belt construction,size (like 70 series,and the other 3 were 78 series),etc...putting a set of 4 new matched tires on can make a new vehicle out of it!..
Some of my trucks though,don't seem to care what tires I run,my '82 GMC has 4 different ones on it now--a BF Goodrich 8 ply TA up front,the other front tire is a Cooper 255/70-16,and the two rear ones came off salvage yard trucks,the spares that never touched the ground,one is a 4 ply and the other is a 6 ply..truck doesn't seem any different than when I had 4 tires all matching sizes,plys and brands on it..I think the heavier the vehicle the less it seems to show up somehow..
Can't imagine why anyone would run bias ply tire on a street vehicle, radial tire are single greatest improvement to steering and handling ever. One of my 70 vintage vans came with bias ply tires, horrible driving it home, 1st thing done new set of a/s radial tires was like a new car. Thou I knocked $300 off the price because of loose front end.
Nitto's Cooper's. Put Cooper ast 3 on the motor home 235 85r16 just under 1k for 6
Nitto's Cooper's. Put Cooper ast 3 on the motor home 235 85r16 just under 1k for 6
Some of us are old enough to remember when bias plys were all there was...and they had 16.5's as a common rim size..
Bias plys were sold up here well into the late 1980's and there was still a lot of old stock ones in warehouses and tire ship racks that would go on sale for like $25 each mounted & balanced,with new valve stems back then...radials came around 1976 or so,but it took 5+ years for them to gain popularity,most folks on a budget stuck with the cheap "on sale" bias plys for their daily drivers..
Me,I ran tires from any source I could get them from when I was a teen,often there were big piles of tires dumped illegally in state forests and reservations we'd come across while dirt bike riding or snowmobiling,and we'd dig out the ones that still had decent tread and no sidewall cuts or slashes,and used them on our vehicles..
Back when Firestone recalled the "721" radials,there was hundreds of them dumped,probably tire shops paid off someone to get rid of them--my truck had 2 sets of 4 of those I ran with tubes that were like new I got from one of the piles--to get credit for the "defective" tires,the shops were supposed to cut the sidwalls,but many just ice picked a few holes in the tread area..rather than trust tire plugs,I opted to use tire patches on the inside and use radial tubes..I never had one fly apart or fail either..
Bias plys were sold up here well into the late 1980's and there was still a lot of old stock ones in warehouses and tire ship racks that would go on sale for like $25 each mounted & balanced,with new valve stems back then...radials came around 1976 or so,but it took 5+ years for them to gain popularity,most folks on a budget stuck with the cheap "on sale" bias plys for their daily drivers..
Me,I ran tires from any source I could get them from when I was a teen,often there were big piles of tires dumped illegally in state forests and reservations we'd come across while dirt bike riding or snowmobiling,and we'd dig out the ones that still had decent tread and no sidewall cuts or slashes,and used them on our vehicles..
Back when Firestone recalled the "721" radials,there was hundreds of them dumped,probably tire shops paid off someone to get rid of them--my truck had 2 sets of 4 of those I ran with tubes that were like new I got from one of the piles--to get credit for the "defective" tires,the shops were supposed to cut the sidwalls,but many just ice picked a few holes in the tread area..rather than trust tire plugs,I opted to use tire patches on the inside and use radial tubes..I never had one fly apart or fail either..
Been hearing a lot about Milestar Patagonia tires but they are technically m/t. I've used several sets of Hercules Terra Trac AT II and I like them. I'm not sure if those are the cheapest, but I know they aren't the most expensive either.
