Tires and Lift

[1bad2]

I would really like 35" tires on my Jimmy but I really dont want to jack my truck so far into the air that I can't get into it! My question is can I get 35" tires under my truck with a 4" lift? Will a 4" lift require me to lengthen the driveshafts? Will I have to get a dropped steering arm? I wont cut the sheetmetal so if this won't work I really need to know. Also what would my limitations be on width? Would I have to stay with a 35x12.50x15, or gould I get something larger on my truck? I don't really do much wheeling, mostly beaches, dunes, and ocassionally some mud (no rocks here in Jacksonville FL to crawl over so articulation isn't a big wory).

 

[BLzr4x4ngkid]

Yeah brutha, 35's will clear with 4" lift. On occasion you might have some rub, but it's not a big problem. Most of the time you don't need to do any drivetrain mods. Yes you will need a dropped steering arm. When you buy your lift you can ask for a steering arm. I'm going to put 6" Superlift on mine with 35's. I want some more room in the fenders. You shouldn't have any problems. Oh, another thing, until you lift it, you won't know if you need to do drive shaft mods. Lift it and then you will know. Good luck man.

"Crutch"

"What me get stuck? NEVER!!"(Famous last words)

 

[Corey-88K5]

Here is a option for you. If you are just interested in the "Looks" of it, and you don't need big articulation. Look into ??Superlift??'s Mudbogger Series springs. They are stuper stiff, and wouldn't offer much articulation. If you only do dunes and pavement, you shouldn't have a problem with the 35's under a 4" lift. I my self am a little bigger into articulation, so I am planning a 8" lift (with as soft a spring as I can find) to clear 35/14.5/15's. And I won't cut my metal so I feel your pain. As far as the arm, you should beable to live with out it. You may need longer brake lines though. Driveshafts should be fine. You may develope a slight vibration, but if that happens, either look back a few posts, or state your problem when it arises. The only other thing to take into consideration is the width of the tires/rims. If they are any wider than 12.5 that in its self could cause a hitting problem.

If you have any questions, repost, and we will answer. Best of luck, and keep us posted. PIC's are the best!

Corey
88K5

Not to add to your problem, but have you thought about gears and a trans cooler yet? 35's on stock gears are pretty hard on the ol' 700r4...

<font color=red>Girls Like Guys In Bow Ties
http://www.geocities.com/corey_perez

 

[Steve88]

That's exactly what I'm planning on too, and just about the same usage as well. As far as the arm I think you'll hear both opinions on it.

But, if you do in fact do the arm, there's a place called Harbor Freight Tools, which sells mostly imported junk, but anyway they have a pitman arm puller for $5. From all the previous posts I've read it seems the arm is the biggest pain in the arse to get off. Lotsa heat and pounding. Couldn't hurt to spend $5 if it'll save an hours work, and even if it breaks after the first time it was only $5.

(I'm sure there are other places to buy it too, but just happened to notice it while I was in the store the other day.)

Keep us posted and good luck. I hope to learn from your lessons and hopefully no mistakes!!!

<font color=red>Steve88</font color=red>

88K5 Silverado
[email protected]

 

[Corey 78K5]

If you want a good tool for removing the tapperd washers on the steering arm check with NAPA they carry a tool made by OTC their kinda like a pair of plyers. Hope this helps.
Corey 78K5

 

[6.2Blazer]

The pitman arm and the steering arm are two different things. The pitman arm attaches to the steering gear box (that's mounted on the frame) on one end and the draglink on the other. The steering arm attaches to the other end of the draglink and to the steering knuckle on the front axle. I have never seen a puller made for the steering arm and it doesn't look like there would be anyway to make one (though I could be wrong).

 

[shaggyk5]

just beat the piss out of the old arm. you dont need it anyway if you are putting on the new one. Just dont bend the studs.

shaggyk5

aint nuthin in the world like a heavy chevy!!