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to bed line or not and how to clean floors

metalneverdies

metalneverdies

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Well I did some work on the truck yesterday. Stripped out almost the whole cab to check mounting bolts for cracks. I found a crack on the passenger rear seat mount bolt. So after I get that welded and have the other mounts reinforced I was debating on weather or not I should bedline the truck. The carpet looks ok. can't tell if it's mold on the bottom or what. the pad looks ok too. However, the plastic noise damper is majority dry rotted.

I like the convenience of herculiner, but I think al's liner may be a better lasting product. Can I re-roll on herculiner in a few years? Or do I have to totally strip it?

How do I clean all the insulation and crap off my floor with out destroying the paint?

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Also what is this wire for going to the drivers seat belt?
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I don't have any secrets for stripping the floor.

The wire is probably for a seat belt sensor so Big Brother can make sure you're buckling up. But mine is an 88 and I don't think I have one.

If you're considering DIY bedlining the floor, I would just scrub the floor w/ a red scotch-brite. This would clean the insulation off the floor and also prep it for the bedliner. You can still put carpet back over it. I did this just because I liked the rust protection and sound/heat barrier that a little bedliner coat provided. I also don't see any reason why you just can't roll over it again in the future. Bedliner should be able to stick to itself w/o much additional prep.

Also, I had the dreaded cracks too.

.
 
My interior is Line X'd. I did the prep work myself. I used one of those paint stripper wheels in a cordless drill, it takes time but works. I would then use green scratch pad to scuff up any surface you want the liner to stick to and then wipe the entire area down with acetone or alcohol.

before;

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after;


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Thanks, I was pleasantly surprised.

How bad is it if I take off a bit of paint while scuffing? The floor Paint is quite thin in a few areas.

With out buying throw away bolts to plug the holes how do I keep them clean? I am afraid if I use table the area where the tape is / was will cause it to peel later on.

Also, how is your tail gate panel done. From what I have seen with just pain it's a snug fit. I imagine if they were Painted individually they would not slip back into place on the gate.
 
metalneverdies said:
With out buying throw away bolts to plug the holes how do I keep them clean?.
Click to expand...

i think someone on here suggested using the foam ear plugs (for shooting)for the bolt holes. it's what i was going to try when i did my floor
 
metalneverdies said:
What about the screw holes
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ummm, a spare screw? ;)

make sure all the shine is off the paint.... a palm sander with some 220 on it does a nice job of dulling everything out and giving a good bite... if the sander goes thru to bare metal here or there, rattlecan some primer on the bare spots.. than scuffpad after that for the shiney stuff the sander can't hit...

blow out.. clean with denatured alcohol and paper towels..

the catalyzed liners are going to be a much better resin than an air-dried Herc.. Line-x, Al's, etc, anything with a hardener is a more durable route...
 
ryoken said:
ummm, a spare screw? ;)

make sure all the shine is off the paint.... a palm sander with some 220 on it does a nice job of dulling everything out and giving a good bite... if the sander goes thru to bare metal here or there, rattlecan some primer on the bare spots.. than scuffpad after that for the shiney stuff the sander can't hit...

blow out.. clean with denatured alcohol and paper towels..

the catalyzed liners are going to be a much better resin than an air-dried Herc.. Line-x, Al's, etc, anything with a hardener is a more durable route...
Click to expand...

If I was to use rattle can primer would that be ok? Or do I need time use 2 part like with automotive paint?
 
I put the original screws/bolts in the holes I wanted to keep and they just taped up the top of the bolt/screws. I didnt use any throw away bolts/screws and didnt do the ear plug suggetion, but that would work.

I dont know if I would primer bare metal, that is the best thing for the Liner to stick to. I ended up with bare metal on the wheel arches because I had to dig deep with the paint stripper wheel

They removed the rear access panel and did it as a seperate piece.

If I had to do over again, I wouldve taken the entire interior apart and had them do up the "A" and "B" pillars and headliner area.
 
Wire wheel , paint stripper wheel or you can try some heat and a scrapper. Some people have used chemicals, like Strip-Ez that you can get at walmart.
 
Wire wheel to the big crap, flap disk to the rest. I used liner extreeme, it has a hardener. 3 gallons for $150. Go to www.sprayonbedliners.info And if you check my thread in my sig, my floor project starts around post 450. I sandblasted, patched, rust converter, cleaned and sprayed the liner in. Looks awesome imo.
 
This is great! Exactly the project I want to take on soon...

A few questions....

I was thinking of just doing the upper deck (bed) only....any thoughts on that after completing your project?

Also, what about some sort of drainage? I think the advantage would be the ease of cleaning, but these trucks aren't Jeeps and don't have the holes for draining. Did you add a plug somewhere or how would you evacuate any water, mud?

Thanks!
 
yeah, I know, it'll probably be fine for decades...

that's the thing about any coating processes, bodywork, etc, it's a percentage game, not definitives..

bondo over rust paint job? more than likely, you'll be seeing it come out in 2, 3 yrs.. but he!! you get a few here and there that may be good for 10... it's all a cr@pshoot, all you can do is try to give yourself the best chance for success..
 
All I can say is spend the time on the prep work, and do it right. I kind of got sick of the prep work, and figured it was good enough. 3 years later- no, it wasn't. I've had a lot of liner peel up in that time. I only did the cargo area, and I've thrown a lot of crap in there, but a lot of times if it's something particularly heavy, it just peels the liner right up.

I used durabak. My dad used that stuff to paint the whole floor of his Wagoneer and never had any issues, so I'm pretty sure it was my crappy prep work and not the product that was to blame. I don't know if it's hardened or air dry or whatever- whenever I get around to redoing it I'll be doing a little more research into that stuff. The nice thing about durabak is they have a lot of color options.
 
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