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To block or not to block?

Copasetic

Copasetic

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
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Location
Martinez, GA
I have a D60 front with crossover. Would I benefit from a raised steering block? I tightened the nuts down on both sides of the drag link to install the cotter pins where the bolt part of the TREs go into the steering arm and the pitman arm and I cannot get either nut to tighten down enough to get the pins in the holes. Suggestions? I'm thinking a block would help the angle out enough for me to be able to get a few more threads in the bolts for the pin holes to show. Let me know what y'all think, thanks! If pics will help let me know and I'll get some up when I get home today.
 
Is the body of each TRE touching each arm? The only reason I can think of for not getting enough thread would be binding against the body preventing it from seating properly. That said, if the bodies are not touching I wouldn't think a block would help that problem (fix a bad drag link angle mabe but not the thread issue).
 
nvrenuf said:
Is the body of each TRE touching each arm? The only reason I can think of for not getting enough thread would be binding against the body preventing it from seating properly. That said, if the bodies are not touching I wouldn't think a block would help that problem (fix a bad drag link angle mabe but not the thread issue).
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I don't think they are BUT after reading this I had a brainstorm. Maybe the shaft of the tie rod end is actually binding up on the inside of the steering arm and the drag link. Maybe also if I were to take a round or 2 of thread out of the drag link itself, it may give a little more slack for the threads of the TRE's to come on through. I'm trying that time I get home. Thanks John !
 
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here is a way to check. hook up the steering arm end of the draglink. tighten the nut all the way. did the nut thread on far enough? if so the next thing you need to worry about is the TRE's operating angle.

raise the other end to hook it up to the pitman arm, it will either reach or you will run out of angle in the TRE that is hooked to the steering arm.

when you are hooking all of this up you should have the axle supported by jackstands so that it is easy to turn the tires if you need to.
 
Well I was able to play with the adjustment of the TRE's and I got the cotter pins to go into the holes. I was also able to get my steering wheel straight with the tires pointing straight. I think the angle of the drag link is a bit much on the steering arm and will probably wear out pretty fast. I cycled the steering and it isn't binding anywhere so I should be good on that for a while. It looks like the steering arm was made from flat stock and doesn't have the bevel like the arm from ORD. Instead of having a new drag link made I may just get a new steering arm from ORD and maybe a longer pitman arm. What do you guys think?

attachment-1194641.jpg


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the right steering arm will make a big difference. also a bent draglink like what ORD sells will take some angle off the TRE.

you should call and talk to them, you should be able to reuse the pitman arm and TRE. Or you could get a complete kit and pass that junk along to the next guy.
 
Before buying anything check out NorthWestFab's arms. I'm not knocking ORD's stuff but NWF's has a rise in the arm that the other doesn't. I have an NWF setup and the quality is really nice.

Also, Off Road Unlimited has crossover arms with a dramatic rise to them but I have never read any feedback on their product.
 
I see three problems with what you have. The steering arm should have a angle cut so the TRE has more angularity, with the amount of lift you have you need a dropped drank link, and also those TRE's are going to bend or break as they aren't nearly as strong as the ES2010L/R's with the short shank and 7/8" threads.
 
350ish for a full crossover setup with all the right parts machined and fit to your specs, i run 9" lift with no problems, 650ish for full hi steer like i have

sky-manufacturing.com

im happy
 
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