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To drop or not to drop...the tcase that is

Transfer Case Drop

  • I did it, and it worked for me

    Votes: 10 52.6%
  • I did it, and it DID NOT work for me

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I would never do this

    Votes: 5 26.3%
  • I would do this if needed

    Votes: 4 21.1%

  • Total voters
    19

dieselndixie

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Posts
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Location
austin, tx
There is a ton of info good and bad out there...what I want to know is this.

How many have done it AND solved their driveline issues. How many of done it and CAUSED issues.

Please dont post up if you dont have real experience with this, at this point im not really wanting recomendations as much as I am wanting testimonies (if that makes sense) . I think we would benefit from real world examples. I recognize that its not the best option, but its not sounding like the worst. Some people say it worked, some say it doesnt.

in my particular case...I have a 4" lift kit that gave me over 6 inches of lift...and was on course to try the cv driveshaft and spring perch location. but the locals are telling me that a tcase drop may solve all my vibration issues. (plus, even the install instructions for my lift kit told me to drop the tcase) Im just trying to get all the info I can. I am only talking about the standard 1.5" drop with square tubing like most of the kits offer (skyjacker)

Just seeing how many of us have actually done this.
 
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1) Where's the nekked option?


2) I'd run a rear CV shaft and get the angle right, before dropping my T-case. Which is what I'm going to do, pointing the pinion at the T-case.

I had a T-case drop on my Blazer. I don't know why, it only had 2.5" lift. It was done with the stock spacers, which is bad. I returned it back to normal and found nothing weird after driving it. Up to 80mph.
 
The right way:
- Get a CV driveshaft.
----------------------------------

I did a T-case drop kit, it solved my vibe issue.
That was back when I was on 10b's, and a 6" lift.

I got rid of it when I went CV, and slapped a 14b in there. :thumb:
 
Any issues with distributors hitting firewall? Motor mounts wearing iut? Exhaust hitting or bending? Issues I'm not thinking of? What negatives have you guys experienced?
 
Mines been that way for damn near three years and there's really no issues that I've had. I did it because it was free and I was on a budget... I know people here may think its halfass, and it kindsa is, but it works for me.
 
Any issues with distributors hitting firewall? Motor mounts wearing iut? Exhaust hitting or bending? Issues I'm not thinking of? What negatives have you guys experienced?

What about the fact you're increasing the angle on the front shaft... :popcorn:
 
4" lift on mine...had vibes and too much slip sticking out of the T-case. Dropped the T-case down. Vibes gone, and slip joint is back where it should be. Yes, A CV and bling shaft would be the best way to fix the issue, but dropping the t-case got the same result for free. Dist to firewall is fine, but mine is TBI so the cap is smaller than regular HEI.

With Superlift's up front I don't worry about the front shaft, it'll never flex enough to be an issue.
 
What nvrenuf said, that's why I didn't do it to mine. I got the double cardan joint.
 
My 1987 Jimmy has a 6" lift. When I got it there was a 1" spacer drop on it. I replaced the spacer drop with plates that give it a 1" transfer case drop. I have no problems with vibration at any speed. The picture below shows the spacers and the plates.

DSC01411.jpg
 
I guess I should take my hat out of the ring. I will be clocking my T-case, so a drop for me wouldn't make sense at this point. :) If the 1" body lift and some pounding isn't enough to clear the clocked case, than the rest may be taken up by a custom T-case crossmember with the mount dropped some.
 
Box the Crossmember

Rather than drop the whole crossmember, I cut and boxed the crossmember at the mounting point and welded a new mounting plate on the bottom, creating a recessed mounting point, rather than top of the crossmember channel. Lowered the case over about 1.5" and seemed to help.
 
My big Blazer had the spacers between the frame rail and he crossmember from the previous owner. He said it vibrated with out it. I drove it from Lancaster California to Eastern Nebraska that way with a one day stop in Moab for some light wheeling with absolutely no issues. We also hit 90mph at a couple points in that trip, and were generally running 70-75 depending upon the speed limits of the interstates. When I got home I made some actual spacers out of 1" bar stock to replace the factory spacers.

Martin
 
my kit from skyjacker should be here any day...im gonna go for it and see if its a good enough bandaid to get me buy until i come across some cash.
 
I dropped my T-case with 1 1/4" spacers when I put my 4" lift on and kept the stock shaft. Been running strong going on 4 years. I've ran 85mph and more on the highway with no vibrations, and abused the heck out of the truck off road too.
 
Man that's good to hear! My kit is here and I will be installing it very soon. Can I drop one side at a time? What y'all think about using my floor jack and a piece of 4x4 to lower it down?
 
Yes you can do it that way, but don't tighten the bolts completely till you have both sides in.

Martin
 
It's easy to do... I dropped mine after my lift install about 6 years ago. It fixed the vibration issues, but I had to do some doctoring on my fan shroud. The biggest problem I have is with the dizzy hitting the fire wall now.. I went through 2 and had to work in the firewall a little. Now I'm running an external coil, but it's still really close.... I want to take it out, but it was the cheapest and easiest way to get rid of the vibration. Maybe if I ever have any extra cash I can fix it a better way... As far as it fixing the problem YES!!! And it's cheap and easy!
 
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