to take it down to metal...or not?

[supersize75k5]

I am getting ready to dig in on my 68 plymouth fury project sometime in January if I get my 71 chevy done on time...


so, I have a car with some really old chiped up paint, in the past I have just replaced sheet metal and have had a fresh canvas, or the paint was not in this bad of shape. The whole car is spotted with chiped up spots so I imagin this leaves me to alot of time on the DA and alot of blocking......

so any ideas?


bite the bullet and get it blasted? saves ME time, just I risk warpage and that is a concern,

chemicals?....no idea on this one

or good old sanding....long hours would go into that, any idea on the time involded? I could be chipper for up to a week, but to long after that and I will start talking to my self..


just looking for ideas on this, this is alot fifferent then just fixing up another blazer....ALOT different!

I have from about 5-6 hours a day for this, 5 days a week so I would hope a solid month is a good time frame to get the body stipped, prepped, and painted? Sounds reasonable anyways!

any info, ideas or pointers are welcome,

thanks...shawn

 

[pauly383]

Not too many c-body panels to be had like we do on our trucks . Your young , sand that baby down son . Use your hands and feel her . Use some paint peiodically then sand to reveal high and low spots

 

[dodgedude99]

get yourself a nice 10" d/a and start sanding with 40 til you get to about the primer, switch to 80 til bare metal, switch to the 6" d/a and hit it with 180 and 220.

 

[77blazin]

Your best bet is the chemical call paint stripper, If your baby has more than 7 layers of paint on it, then sanding it would be a waste of time, take it from me, back 10 years I had a 1972 Buick Gran Sport Stage II, that had chips and cracks of all kind on that baby, I tried sanding it with a disk sander and all I got was a shaking arm and a headache and all I got down to was the 4th level of paint.
With the Paint Stripper, I just brush it on since it was like jello, but this gunk eats through anything and if in contact with skin, it burns like fire.
Make sure you wear the proper clothing cause after it does its work, get the water hose and shoot it down, thats what it says in the instuctions on the can.
Try not to breath it either, you got to be in a well ventilated area when using this stuff.
Like sanding it takes hours but this stuff is fast within 10 minutes the paint has cracked and peel off.
Then you can get down to the metal and start doing your business.
But if you want to just sand of the paint, thats up to you just make sure you have your first aid kit handy, you're going to need it to treat your blisters after you're done.
Mike

 

[85mudblazin]

I agree with the paint stripper but then again I dont have much patience, the best stuff I have ever used is called aircraft stripper, they have it auto parts store and it works awesome, the paint just melts off.

 

[supersize75k5]

I wonder why I dont hear of many people going with the chemical strippers


???????


the paint is not seven layers thick, just thick. I cant imagin what it would cost to pay to have this done....I have the patience, I dont know if I have the time right now though.

I think I will try some chemical stipper to start and see where that gets me!

 

[rubbinz raczn]

chemical strippers can come back to haunt you later. say you get it in a body seam and don't see it. you paint it and later, bubble-peel? if you can afford it get it media blasted no warpage.

 

[dodgedude99]

chemical strippers can come back to haunt you later. say you get it in a body seam and don't see it. you paint it and later, bubble-peel? if you can afford it get it media blasted no warpage.

exactly, been there done that.
you might think you had gotten every little bit neutralized but there will be some still stuck in a crack that will get rehydrated (for lack of better words) by the thinners in the primer and paint.

 

[supersize75k5]

exactly, been there done that.
you might think you had gotten every little bit neutralized but there will be some still stuck in a crack that will get rehydrated (for lack of better words) by the thinners in the primer and paint.

you guys have me worried on that, now I think I might be better off to get the DA out and just go to town, it will take a while, but eventually it will be done! There is so much fun to be had with body work!

 

[dodgedude99]

my dads been doing bodywork for 30+ years and he still does it the old D/A way.
but i guess if money wasnt an object we would be media blasting it.

 

[michaeltouche]

Strip it baby...

just finished stripping my 83 K5... I used a chemical stripping product I bought at home depot... worked pretty good

 

[tiger9297]

I agree with the paint stripper but then again I dont have much patience, the best stuff I have ever used is called aircraft stripper, they have it auto parts store and it works awesome, the paint just melts off.

I agree. I'm a pilot and can attest that the aircraft stripper is a good option. It's not quite as harsh as some b/c it is intended to be safe for aircraft aluminum. However, it should have no problem curling up the paint on your project with ease. You just scrape it off and your done. When I paint my K5 in another year or so I WILL strip it first. It's the best way to do it no doubt. I say use the aircraft stripper.

 

[dodgedude99]

i agree the Aircraft Paint stripper works great but its messy, it burns, and your run the risk of ruining that nice paint job if you did neutralize it all.

 

[ryoken]

in the old days before hydroblasting if we needed to restore a boat bottom back to shiny gel after someone had bottom painted it, thats what i'd use.. spray gallons of it on thru a rocker shutz gun starting from the keel out.. come back 1/2 hr later and powerwash it...