CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Today’s stuck bolt project.

TC4x4

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Posts
888
Reaction score
22
Location
Michigan
This is the bolt for the passenger seat belt attachment point. Any ideas? The easy outs are not an option. My seat belt project wasn’t going to be easy or the previous owner would have done it I presume.

Tips?

4349F64C-85A5-4F50-85CC-3F100838811C.jpeg

93BE8A33-034A-4904-96DD-9634E115FF68.jpeg

3D652E97-C932-4756-AB71-8CEA7F3BE0F0.jpeg

42AA7A14-F479-402F-9593-5B5C278F0BF4.jpeg

1C00E994-06B7-42C1-A6DE-EEC3C9996336.jpeg
 
Looks like they ez out option failed?

Drill it out just enough to barely expose the threads. Might be able to get some movement at that point
 
What if I welded a nut to the bottom side and worked it out that way with a socket?
 
Looks like they ez out option failed?

Drill it out just enough to barely expose the threads. Might be able to get some movement at that point
And yes, the easy out wasn't so easy!
 
What if I welded a nut to the bottom side and worked it out that way with a socket?
It is an option

Just know if there is a burr on the top, it will chase that all the way through the rest of the threads


But try it and see how it feels. You also may be able to run it into the cab and cut the nut off after it is loose

Make sure you don’t flambé your carpet
 
Another option if cutting and welding is in the cards is to cut off the nut from the underside and weld a new one on. Like Bent said, care with the carpet.
 
Drill right thru it and put a longer bolt & new nut under the existing one..easiest way out..
 
Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1A--CbKVMG7MJ

This syle is the best extractor, other than a left hand drill bit. More penetrate, not wd40. Liquid wrench or Kroil oil. Rap it with a hammer after oiling. Use extractor. Maybe a little heat on nut. Are the threads damaged I can't see well in picture.
It looks close to center on drilled hole. You can enlarge that till you see the beginning of the nut threads. The work it out with a center punch and a hammer. Maybe grind off the head.
 
Last edited:
those bolts are a lock bolt as in squeezed to a triangle shape to make them pinch in like a stover lock nut . then they have lock-tight blue on them . and by now rust has set in them .

heat is your friend and a good welder and nut on the bottom side and pull it down threw the rest of the way is how i would go at it . i don't own easy out's as they tend to get used for the wrong level of stuck bolts and screw the job up worse .

with the heat and welder tho it would be best to roll the carpet and sound pad back out of the way .
 
So I ended up drilling out the stuck broken bolt. I drilled out the hole and threads through the welded threaded block on the bottom of the floor. I bought a grade 8 bolt to go through the floor, backed by a lock washer and nut on the bottom side of the floor.

Seems very sturdy and came out pretty clean. I think I’m going to try on size shorter bolt to make the the finished look better.

image.jpg

image.jpg
 
In my experience the seat bolts rarely come loose after a factory install,and I have never had one loosen up that I drilled out and used the second new nut method..the floor itself has cracked and torn loose first on a few trucks I had though,but the bolts stayed tight..
 
Top Bottom