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Today on: The Chronicles of the newbie K5 owner

Nutro

1/2 ton status
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Location
Austin, TX
I haven't touched a SBC in probably 18 years so I've forgotten a lot but I still remember from my father drilling into my head 18436572. Anyway, my timing cover was leaking at the front when I would park backward on an incline AND I wanted to install a new water pump, oil pan gasket and power steering pump. The previous owner told me the motor was rebuilt recently but I don't really trust other people so...

I am surprised. My pops was excited when we dropped the pan and found a pretty much brand new looking engine. It's a 4 bolt main, all paint markings are fresh and it all looks clean. The timing chain is nice and tight and everything came apart easily.

Does this look like a stock timing chain? I'm used to seeing the old school single chain so I was surprised to find this.

Ok. So questions. Oil pan first finger tight, then timing cover snug then oil pan snug catching the bottom lip of timing cover? Or timing cover first snug then pan and snug? That little strip in the lip of the timing cover, does it get permatext Right Stuff? Or go in dry with it?

I am using a new Felpro blue rubber 1 piece pan gasket and will go dry with it. Where are these "Corners" that I need to apply the "Right Stuff" to?

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I can't see why they would install a double roller on a stock engine. They gutted the emissions stuff as well. I wonder if I need to have a chip burned for this TBI motor to help it run better
 
I am using a new Felpro blue rubber 1 piece pan gasket and will go dry with it. Where are these "Corners" that I need to apply the "Right Stuff" to?

The "corners" they are referring to is the block, oil pan, and timing cover all meet. Its the point in the gasket where the long, flat sides meet the u-shaped end portions.

After putting the timing cover on, we used to put a dab of rtv down in the corner of the channel where the cover meets the block. Then put on the gasket. Then a dab in the corner of the gasket. Then put on the oil pan.
 
A double roller timing chain is a good replacement ,then you'll be unlikely to ever need to look at it again..
I put several in engines,they were only about $20 more for a 3 piece set.

Anything is better than GM's original nylon coated mam gear and morse type timing chain..every one I replaced was so sloppy they were rubbing or slapping against the timing cover (one wore thru!),and the cam gears nylon teeth were all in the oil pan and oil pump screen,and the aluminum teeth were all worn down to nubs..

I also used timing setups listed for 1972 and older engines ,if the part numbers were different for the cam gear--most engines made after 72 had the cam timing retarded for emission purposes and I noticed a bit more pep after replacing the timing chain & gears..
 
Thanks guys! I just spent some time in the ER for some heart stuff so I haven't touched the K5 in a few days. I am going to slowly put it back together hopefully. I read that the front timing cover can leak because it's not fully welded in that lip area so I spooned in some "Right stuff" in that gap. Hopefully that was ok to do.

So, timing cover first, loosely bolt it on, slide balancer on to center everything then snug timing cover down then oil pan.

Do I use this black strip seal that came with the front gasket kit? or does the blue felpro gasket go here? I'm assuming RTV (Right stuff) in that channel regardless then gasket?

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That 1 pc pan gasket will take the separate place of the black end seal so toss it. RTV is like alcohol, it's ok in moderation.
 
They gutted the emissions stuff as well. I wonder if I need to have a chip burned for this TBI motor to help it run better

Do you know what the motor actually is? Is it an exact TBI replacement? Cam, heads, intake, exhaust, any changes to those will need tuning to get the most out of it. Not necessarily to run, just run as good as it should.

Without EGR you SHOULD be getting an error code, but that's not always the case apparently. Does the check engine light work properly when you turn the key to run, not start? Should flash once and stay on solid until the truck starts, then shut off.
 
If you haven't already put on the timing cover, check behind the cam gear at the oil galley plugs...double roller chains have been known to rub the block at that point as the cam walks...

I had to grind my block there to give it some gap... just an FYI..
 

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