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Torque Converter help

sweetk30

sweetk30

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o.k. its all greak to me on the stall speeds and such . :zombie15:

looking at upgrading my 4l60-e from a o4 2wd truck thats in my 2wd build with 03 5.3 ls motor swap stock for now and mabye cam & springs at some point .

its a 2wd truck for dd and fun time . no heavy haulin i for see. 4.11 rear and 29.1 tire .

2150 rpm at 65mph aspr calc .

going to be mostly around town and country roads . some high way trips from time to time.

i hear lots of talk about upgrading on other forums but no real info i can understand .
 
at that hiway rpm I would keep it low, like 16-1800 max...otherwise you'll be slipping and generating a lot of heat.
I run a Coan 2600 in the Vette with 3.90's and going down the hiway 3700rpm @ 65
How much weight are we talking Brett?
 
I got a 2500 Hughes in the blazer and I'm bored of it :whistle:


3000 next :D
 
No. Always had 3.73s


I'll prolly like it better when I get 4.10s
 
Best thing to do IMO is call a good converter company, tell em exactly what you have and will be doing and tell them what you need. The motors power will effect what it's "stall speed" is. Power and weight will affect what it actually flashes to when you nail it. All this affects how tight it feels. Also deferent built converters will feel like they tighten up or ramp up quick, some just feel squishy all over.

You have a lock up so rolling down the highway stall speed of the converter won't mean crap

I'd personally call precision. www.converter.com
 
paratrooper307 said:
That's a pretty high stall for a 4x4, although I guess if it sees mostly street duty and no towing that should make for a fun drive :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Ahh good point, im thinkinf for at the dunes. The stalls prolly just fine for street. I dont feel it very much compared to the stock. Except in reverse from a stop, especially on an incline. But i dont trust the ten bolts for many quick takeoffs on he road lol.
 
I went up to a Corvette converter for a while - they said it was only 2000rpm stall, but it felt much different than the stock one. IMO it sucked in a truck. Seemed like the low end grunt was gone. Then when the TCC failed, it would overheat the tranny in like 1 mile in OD. I went back to a stock stall speed after that and it felt much better. If it was all sand or mud it would be good, but for city driving the higher stall was only a hassle.

The short answer on stall speed is that it should match the rpm range of your cam and intake. The idea is that the engine goes right up to where it makes power on launch and the looser converter gives you a little more torque multiplication. For towing, higher stall speeds suck. For freeway driving the Engine RPM is independent of stall speed because the TCC will be locked. Of course the higher the stall speed, the more slip through the TCC when it does lock and the sooner it will be dead.
 
Best stall speed selection will be determined by your cam specs and intended usage. If you aren't going to tow, a little more stall can mean a great deal for off the line performance. Being that the 4L60E uses a lockup converter you can run all the stall you want without penalty on the highway as the converter is locked and therefore has no slippage at all and generates no excessive heat. A really nice little street converter for LS based engines with mild cam upgrades is the TrailBlazer I-6 converter. In a short wide Truck with a 5.3 you can expect a stall speed in the 2600+ rpm range. This is "flash stall" and the converter actually drives pretty tight at low speeds and lower throttle input. Make sure your builder "knows" these converters, an upgraded clutch is a must have and these converters are a little short in the hub from the factory and that should be adressed as well.
 
Greg, I'm curious how you address the shorter hub. Shims?
 
No, you will need to put the correct hub on the converter when it is built. Most converter builders are aware of the problem and put new hubs on as a matter of course.
 
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