Torque questions? Bolt not engine

[70jimmy]

Ok I am finally putting the cherry bomb back together after running Old Chinaman's Gulch way back on April 8th.

1. Torque specs on hub nuts. The ones you need a special socket for.

2. Torque specs for steering arms. I upgraded to 5/8 studs and still using conical washers. Also question on this. I can't seem to find 5/8 - 18 studs and was told to use grade 8 bolts. Is this OK??? What are the benefits of using real studs vs. bolts.

3. Torque specs to tighten down crossover rod from box to right knuckle and also for tie rod. I am using heim joints with the washer spacer things that allow for full movement of the heim.

I think that's all for now. Dang just remembered I need to go get the ball joints pressed in. Crap!!

 

[goldwing2000]

1. Don't know what axle you have but most are around 80 ft-lbs on the outer nut. The inner nut is "just snug" and then just enough more to line up the pin washer with one of the holes in the nut. I could go look up the actual verbiage but it's quarter to 1 and I'm lazy.

2. I'm running bolts in mine with no problems. Don't know what the torque spec would be but axle u-bolts are 5/8 and the spec on those is 125 ft-lbs.

3. Can't help ya.

Most parts stores have loaner ball joint presses that work quite well.

 

[3 on the tree]

Ok I am finally putting the cherry bomb back together after running Old Chinaman's Gulch way back on April 8th.

1. Torque specs on hub nuts. The ones you need a special socket for.

2. Torque specs for steering arms. I upgraded to 5/8 studs and still using conical washers. Also question on this. I can't seem to find 5/8 - 18 studs and was told to use grade 8 bolts. Is this OK??? What are the benefits of using real studs vs. bolts.

3. Torque specs to tighten down crossover rod from box to right knuckle and also for tie rod. I am using heim joints with the washer spacer things that allow for full movement of the heim.

I think that's all for now. Dang just remembered I need to go get the ball joints pressed in. Crap!!

Hey Duane, here's what my Chiltons says about the hub nuts: inner nuts, torque to 50 ftlbs, then back off to line up hole in nut with pin in washer. Outer nut-minnimum 80 pounds, also gives bearing endplay specs of .001 to .010 inches. Steering arms show 90 ft lbs. 45 ft lbs for tie rod nuts. I only see 2 advantages to studs. #1 is help align the steering arms when installing. #2-studs are much less likely to strip the threads in your knuckles. Over tightening will likely strip the nut or the upper threads of the stud before it damages the threads in the knuckle. Hope this helps!!!!

 

[70jimmy]

Thanks guys.

Axle is a 10 bolt. I will have to look, now that you mention it I don't recall seeing the normal pin on the nut to fit the washer.

 

[roadnotca]

Just torqued my hub nut after replacing ball joints (10b), 1985 factory workshop manual "160 lb. ft." on the hub (locking) nut. I read this post yesterday and I was thinking, 80 sounds kinda low.

 

[goldwing2000]

Just torqued my hub nut after replacing ball joints (10b), 1985 factory workshop manual "160 lb. ft." on the hub (locking) nut. I read this post yesterday and I was thinking, 80 sounds kinda low.

Interesting... my '79 FSM says 80 but my '89 FSM says 160, just like yours. I guess they changed something between '79 and '85. The design and all the parts are the same, so I wonder what it was.

 

[roadnotca]

Hmmm. So 70jimmy, what year is your "Junk"?

 

[70jimmy]

Supposedly the front axle is out of an 87 blazer.

 

[roadnotca]

Supposedly the front axle is out of an 87 blazer.

Oh man, the latter version has gotta be thicker or someting to stand twice the torque. So Goldwing, are the old and new really the same parts?

 

[goldwing2000]

Oh man, the latter version has gotta be thicker or someting to stand twice the torque. So Goldwing, are the old and new really the same parts?

A 10-bolt is a 10-bolt is a 10-bolt, as far as I know. I didn't look at the actual axle that was pictured in the '79 FSM, so the only thing I can think of is the 80 ft-lb spec might be for the older Dana 44. I know they had smaller spindles, so it kind of makes sense that the spec would be lower. The truck I had was actually an '80 and it had a 10-bolt, so I can't say for sure. I've always torqued my 10-bolts to 80 and I've never had a problem.

However, if the axle is out of an '87, i'd say go with the 160 ft-lb spec.

 

[roadnotca]

A 10-bolt is a 10-bolt is a 10-bolt, as far as I know. I didn't look at the actual axle that was pictured in the '79 FSM, so the only thing I can think of is the 80 ft-lb spec might be for the older Dana 44. I know they had smaller spindles, so it kind of makes sense that the spec would be lower. The truck I had was actually an '80 and it had a 10-bolt, so I can't say for sure. I've always torqued my 10-bolts to 80 and I've never had a problem.

However, if the axle is out of an '87, i'd say go with the 160 ft-lb spec.

Was the design change with 1981? Spindle lock nut kit changed with that year. BTW, NAPA Auto has the kit (adjuster, lock ring & lock nut) for $18. BK6301653 and BK6301654.

 

[goldwing2000]

Was the design change with 1981?

I guess it's possible but my '80 is exactly the same as my '89. I suppose I could have a late-model '80 or something.

I didn't even know there were two different designs until I started shopping for new axles and parts for the Blazer. I'm pretty sure the difference is between a D44 and a 10-bolt, though.