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torque specs and loctite (my engine swap)

78Suburban

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I may have asked this question before, but I can't find the answer, and I have searched with very little luck. I get to the meat and potatoes of the motor swap tomrrow : 6 bellhousing bolts, 3 TC to flexplate bolts, and 2 motor mount bolts?. What order do I remove them before pullnig the motor, and what order do I put them back on the new motor? What are the torque specs for each (350 to th400)? should I use red locktite on all of them? Are any of them easy to strip or undertorque, if I can't get a torque wrench to them?
sorry for the noob questions, but I MAJORLY appreciate the help.
thanks a million,
James :bow: :bow: :bow:
 
I pulled everything in the way first , the bellhousing bolts and the torque converter bolts next , and the motor mount bolts last .
 
What i did was disconected all my battery starter wires gas lines and all the other wires then the fan. next i did the bellhousing and then the torque converter bolts finnally the motor mounts and bam getting the hood to line up my be your biggest problem when putting it back on specially if your hood springs are shot like mine.

make sure you lay something down underneath you will have a mess of fluids to deal with no matter what you do
 
does anyone have the torque specs?

I'm just gonna snug the heck out of the bellhousing bolts, but does anyone have the torque specs of motor mount bolts? I can't find it in my haynes manual.
torque specs on flexplate to Torque converter bolts would be awsome too.
I think I'm gonna loctite the torque converter bolts as well.
thanks,
James
 
Use blue locktite since it's semi-permanent, the red stuff is a pain to get out of the threads if you need to do any engine or transmission work afterwards. If you have locktite in your threads you have the risk of not being able to torque the bolts properly after you've taken them out... That's just my personal opinion though... some people might just weld their bolts to their junk too... :haha:
 

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