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Torque ?

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no1uknow

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My K5 has a 454 out of a late 73 early 74 passenger car such as a chevelle or monte carlo, I was told if its a 73 it came stock with 245 Hp if its 74 it dropped to 235Hp which sounds reasonable. My question is does anyone know how much torque they came with? If the HP #'s are correct and if these are good engines?
 
Well , they are down on compression from earlier models , so outputs are a little down . The other thing is they are rated net ( installed ) versus gross ( at flywheel ) , so they would of put out more in advertising 2 years earlier , even with the same engine tuning and compression .


Anyway the ls4 put out 375 ft lbs @ 2800 rpms REGARDLESS of 1973 0r 74 , in a Chevelle .

To verify the engine casting number clicky

and engine code clicky
 
Thanks, would it take much to get around 500 lb's of torque from this engine? What would it take? It only has a Rv cam that I am aware of and the carb is I was told a Q-jet 450 I know it's small I will be getting one soon but it doesn't waste much gas, just a tad bit more than my 2001 pathfinder. Oh and it doesn't have any smog stuff not cat or anything.
 
Well your mileage is gonna be more than a tad bit less than your pathfinder. If you lucky you'll be getting 11 or 12 mpg. My stock tbi 350 only got about 12.

Also if you want that thing to hit 500 ft lbs it would be A lot easier to do it with a bigger carb... you could probably trick out the 450 q jet but its a waste. Just throw a bigger q jet on there.

Since they already come with about 400 ft lbs, a good exhaust, headers, cam, and intake manifold will get you close to 500.
 
Hello

Hay man these are good moters . edelbrock has a intake performer rpm airgap also the carb needs to be about a 750 . make sure that ex. is free flowing not real loud and this motor will make enuff tq to really amaze you if not just sale it to me see ya
 
I was planning to swap out the carb for a truck avenger but wasn't sure if a 670 or 770, it also has a edelbrock performer intake I have no Idea what kind of header but they told me it had some. (as you can see, I am not too mechanically knowledgeable) I know it has a single exhaust the brand is "bullet" I've never heard of it before. The reason I am asking these questions is because I will have around $2500 here in about a month I want to get the carb with that a locker for the rear (14bff) and gears front and rear I don't know what gears are in there now but I know the drive shaft turns about 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 per full tire turn and I don't know where the website is that would tell me my gearing by the way I run 35's. Also at 65mph without od I'm at around 2200 rpm with at around 1800 rpm's. anyone have an Idea on what gears I currently have? I figure after locker, gearing and carb I will still have around $1000 what would be my best bet as too spending that money and getting more torque? I have a mechanic in Mexico (30 min. away) so labor is not a problem. And what kind of Hp and Tq can I realistically look at? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance................
 
For 1400 bucks you could have a full blown mpfi system that would give you better off idle tq, smoother idle, and better throttle response than any carb or tbi could give you. If you don't want to go that route then get a 670 carb(don't need a 770 unless your making big hp), maybe a better cam and some ignition upgrades like a hotter coil. To be honest you'll probably be damn close to 500 ft lbs of tq once you get a bigger carb and tune it right.

There are tons of calculators for the gearing to rpm. search for gear calculator on yahoo.
 
Just remember an engine is a system. All the changes won't matter much if they don't compliment each other.
 
blazinzuk said:
Just remember an engine is a system. All the changes won't matter much if they don't compliment each other.
Click to expand...
That's what I am worried about. I don't want to throw some money away to be dissapointed. I did put a hotter accel coil on it aswell, would changing the distributor make a difference? Don't get me wrong I know this thing is undergeared but it still runs pretty good I just want it to run damn better. I know putting in the proper gears will make a big difference. I plan to run 36/14.5 tires on it eventually, think a d44 will hold up to moderate wheeling? mostly sand but moderate trails? Again I appreciate your input and am looking forward for a little more guidance.
 
The distributor should be ok as long as you don't get over 4500 rpm... I've heard the stock distributor falls all over itself past 4500 rpm. You might want to clean up the points with a wire brush tho.


The d44 is not generally a good axle for a bb, but as long as you don't shock the drivetrain it should be ok. You'll probably break a few parts every year or two if you wheel it hard but it should hold up.

Before you do anything else get a good carb on top and have it tuned by a shop or knowledgable friend. After that put some better gears in it. If you have OD you should be happy with 4.56's if not then get 4.10's.

Gears will make a HUGE difference.
 
It is hard to go wrong with a well tuned carb add a intake manifold to that and headers, and by all means if you have a points distrubutor change it to an HEI or at least put on ignitor in it
 
no1uknow said:
That's what I am worried about. I don't want to throw some money away to be dissapointed.
Click to expand...

yes an engine is a system but its nothing to be worried about. Picking the right parts is the simplest part. putting them on right is what you should be worried about. If you have a low stall towing converter, get a low rpm tq cam and do some research to find out what the best duration and lift would be for what you want.
 
Stock carb is going to be 750 or 800CFM, so if that's whats on there (didn't see it mentioned) a rebuild of that is going to be more cost effective than a new carb. See if anyone that runs a q-jet bad mouths them for trucks. :) A few will, but tuned right, the Q-jet is a very good carb.

I just can't see spending $300+ on a new carb, when you can replace/fix all the pieces that actually wear for about $70, if you are willing to do the work yourself.
 
The carb that's on there is a Q-jet 450 cfm. It's pretty small, but gives good gas mileage but I definately want to get rid of it.
 
There is no such thing as a 450 CFM Q-jet.

The dual-jet (front half of a Q-jet essentially) was 250 or 300CFM IIRC, but a true Quadrajet (4 barrel from 1965-1990) is only either a 750 or 800. (well, you'll see 795/800 used interchangeably when described)
 
I aint to mechanically inclined, That's what I was told but I guess the dude was wrong. I guess I won't be taking it to that mechanic again.

Here are a few pics it's kinda hard to see and the truck isn't here to take some. Maybe someone can get an Idea of what I have.

Some pics
 
Yeah that's a q-jet.

Can't tell an 800 from a 750 without removing the air cleaner or knowing what CFM a particular application used, but it really shouldn't matter. I've known no one to actually notice a difference between the 750 and 800.

At the same time they were using 800's on 305's, they were using 750's on 350 engines, and I'm sure on 454 as well, so only GM knows the rhyme/reason of what got what and why.
 
I was told the carb didn't work and it smells like raw gas comming out of the exhaust. Is it better to fix that one or just go ahead and buy a Truck Avenger? I also have a 650cfm I don't remember if it's a Holley or edelbrock sitting in my friends garage that I loned him, would that be too small?
 
It can more than likely be rebuilt and a new float installed . Sometimes the throttle shaft bores need sleeving to prevent an vacuum leak leak .

I swear by the q-jet on uneven terrain , never had it stall with that carb . Even my original one with leaking throttle shaft bores runs good ( sitting in box my "new" one came in ) :D
 
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