Traction bar link tab placement on axle tube

[TSewell]

I am going to build a cheap, yet effective set of traction bars to eliminate axle wrap. I wanna put them where they are out of the way. My plan is to use 3'' axle link tabs, flat link tabs, 7/8-14 x 3/4 heat treated chromoly heim joints, and tube inserts with 1 3/4od x 1 1/4id tube and make them roughly 40 inches long with a bolt on cross member right behind the transfer. I can accomplish all of this for around 170. The problem i am running into right now is trying to figure out if i could put the axle link tabs on top of the axle tube, or if they have to be below.

 

[454Sub]

Either works, the bottom of the axle twists more on the apex of the spring, so its best to have the tabs on the bottom, to stop the twist before it can ever start. Best way is tab on both bottom and top, and run a Y shaped trac bar and hook to both.

 

[TSewell]

Either works, the bottom of the axle twists more on the apex of the spring, so its best to have the tabs on the bottom, to stop the twist before it can ever start. Best way is tab on both bottom and top, and run a Y shaped trac bar and hook to both.

Thank you for your input. I understand that having another bar would be best. But this way works, and works with my budget and the tools i got. If i had a tube cutter i would have it that way.

 

[Blue85]

The simple answer is that you should do both. A single connection an the axle side will force the axle and leaf spring to twist as the suspension cycles. The drive torque may actually cause the rear to lift or squat. Why won't the standard 2-point connection to the axle tube work for you? You only need to do this on one side, so the total material may be less than doing the single bar on both sides. You don't need to bend tube to do this. Even the angled cuts can be close enough with an angle grinder.

 

[TSewell]

I have decided to do the traditional single triangular mount like you are describing. I'm going to use a grinder to make my notches. Thanks for the help and shedding more light on the situation.

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[Blue85]

I don't know if this helps, but we had some design discussions in here: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275829

Filling the gaps with weld shouldn't be a problem with 1/4" wall tubing.