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Traction Bar Pictures?

I just made a set for a buds truck, we used 2.5" Johnny joints on each side with just a straight piece of DOM tubing sleeved out for strength. On the frame we are using leaf spring mounts from a J**p then on the axle just some custom mounting tabs. When I get done I'll take some pics. Possibly tomorrow. Wont be a finished project, thinking of some triangulation with a drivehsaft hoop integrated.
 
84_Chevy_K10 said:
Wheel travel from your leaf springs was apparently optional.
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If you look at the pic it looks like there is a slip right before the attachment point at the cross member eliminating the need for a shackle.
 
"Wheel travel from your leaf springs was apparently optional.

__________________
Tim "


No,,,it works just like a two piece driveshaft, allowing the bar to move with the suspension.
 
85m1009 said:
Here is our newest innovation in traction control, dubbed the "Wrap Zapper". More info is available on our website http://www.mo-offroad.com

wrapzapperdisplay.gif

wrapzapper04.gif

wrapzapper03.gif
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I couldn't find a price on the website. Do you guys have a price worked out yet, or are you still working out the details?
 
crazy_swede_73 said:
"Wheel travel from your leaf springs was apparently optional.

__________________
Tim "


No,,,it works just like a two piece driveshaft, allowing the bar to move with the suspension.
Click to expand...

Two piece driveshafts still have a slip yoke to change lengths.
 
We have preliminarily set the price on the kit with the center mount, not a truss, at $425.00. It includes a cut to length bar with a front universal crossmember and the rear mount on the axle which varies according to axle model. The trusses cost $250.00 but makes the cost of the traction system $375.00.
 
so its cheaper to get the truss than the center mount? Or am I misreading it? Also, how much welding is required?
 
I think that means $425 for the wrap bar without the truss, then if you want the bar with the truss its $250 for the truss plus $375 for the bar, which would make the system like you see it pictured above with the truss cost $625.. Buying the truss and the wrap bar lowers the cost of the antiwrap system by $50. I think this is what is meant, atleast thats the way I interpret it. Either way doesnt sound all that bad of a price considering what you get and how much the azkickin set up cost. Hey do all of your axle trusses come with the shocks tabs on them?
 
Nice design, I always liked doing it that way over the shackle, much simpler and cheaper and just as effective, good job!
 
BlueBlazer62 said:
Nice design, I always liked doing it that way over the shackle, much simpler and cheaper and just as effective, good job!
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Cool thanks,,
The slip is actually almost 15" long, its quite heavy but i can lift the truck by putting a jack under the pinion housing :D
 
The price for the traction bar with the center mount is $425.00. The price with the truss and traction system is $625.00. There should be no welding involved, unless you have to modify the front crossmember. You mount the front crossmember by drilling two 3/8" holes in each frame rail, the center diff mount uses the top 3 or 4 bolts in the cover and a pinion bracket either a cnc cut ubolt, or a plate that attaches to the pinion support like with the 14 bolt ff. Once you have both mounted you determine the length of the upper tube which is already welded at the front end, cut it off and drill a 1/2 inch hole to mount it on the diff bracket. Once you have the top bar mounted you set your pinion angle measure your hole centers for the bottom bar, cut it to length and drill another 1/2" hole and bolt it in. Should your pinion angle change in the future you either shorten or get a longer bottom bar without having to modify the rest of the bar. If you do not like the way your truck corners on the street, with a locker, you can pull out the bottom bar and keep it with you until you are in need of traction control. If you change rear axles you can buy the different center mount without buying everything all over again. The slip shaft rides in a 4 inch long bronze oil impregnated bushing and does not require lubrication. The shaft has 6 inches of slip which is way more than most suspensions require.
 
85m1009 said:
The price for the traction bar with the center mount is $425.00. The price with the truss and traction system is $625.00. There should be no welding involved, unless you have to modify the front crossmember. You mount the front crossmember by drilling two 3/8" holes in each frame rail, the center diff mount uses the top 3 or 4 bolts in the cover and a pinion bracket either a cnc cut ubolt, or a plate that attaches to the pinion support like with the 14 bolt ff. Once you have both mounted you determine the length of the upper tube which is already welded at the front end, cut it off and drill a 1/2 inch hole to mount it on the diff bracket. Once you have the top bar mounted you set your pinion angle measure your hole centers for the bottom bar, cut it to length and drill another 1/2" hole and bolt it in. Should your pinion angle change in the future you either shorten or get a longer bottom bar without having to modify the rest of the bar. If you do not like the way your truck corners on the street, with a locker, you can pull out the bottom bar and keep it with you until you are in need of traction control. If you change rear axles you can buy the different center mount without buying everything all over again. The slip shaft rides in a 4 inch long bronze oil impregnated bushing and does not require lubrication. The shaft has 6 inches of slip which is way more than most suspensions require.
Click to expand...

Wow, that sounds perfect. If my Timbar doesn't work as well as expected, I know exactly who I'm calling for some antiwrap.
 
Everything comes in black, the yellow just shows up well for advertising. We use a Nason urethane single stage black paint for painting our parts. We were powdercoating our diff covers but they are impossible to touch up and for some reason our customers keep hitting rocks with them, go figure.:cool1:
 
why would you need that much slip? part of my plan was to limit the axel travel if the springs descide to bend, keeping the axel out of the transfer case.
 
55Willy said:
why would you need that much slip? part of my plan was to limit the axel travel if the springs descide to bend, keeping the axel out of the transfer case.
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I dont need it, i just wanted it to be long so it would
add some strength to the bar.
 
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