Traction Bar Question

[4wheelin4Jesus]

I need some help with the front mount of the traction bar (the one that connects to the frame, see pic). Some are fabricated with this shackle mount which allows up and down and left and right movement. Some are made with a bolt hole that allows for up and down movement only (see pic with black tube). It seems to me that if you had the shackle mount, and it allowed for 4 way movement, that you are defeating the purpose. Can anyone please shed some light on why you have two options of these traction bars?
thanks

 

[sweetk30]

first styke is for full movment of springs and suspension. second style limits spring movement quite a bit. if you flex off road alot go first setup. if highway or dd most of the time second style o.k.

 

[divorced]

I don't understand how any traction bars work... it seems to me that they would all bind up.

 

[4wheelin4Jesus]

any other thoughts from anyone else.
thanks.

 

[Greg72]

The shackle setup is a smart solution for a truck that goes offroad...

Ultimately the #1 function of the bar is to NOT allow rotation of the axle housing. Either design you've shown will accomplish that.

However, all leafsprung trucks will allow the axle to move substantially (front to back) as the suspension cycles (or articulates)...if you connect a trackbar with two fixed ends to a leafsprung axle, it will bind like crazy and try to prevent the axle from moving the way it needs to. My guess is that ultimately you will just end up tearing the mounts off the trackbar....

That shackle setup on the first picture allows for the front-to-back movement and still offers the resistance (up and down) to prevent the axlewrap.


....it's somewhat hard to describe in words. The bottom line is that the yellow pic is GOOD, the black pic is BAD.

 

[4wheelin4Jesus]

your explanation of traction for dummies was awsome. I appreciate your help.

 

[seschev3]

The shackle setup is a smart solution for a truck that goes offroad...

Ultimately the #1 function of the bar is to NOT allow rotation of the axle housing. Either design you've shown will accomplish that.

However, all leafsprung trucks will allow the axle to move substantially (front to back) as the suspension cycles (or articulates)...if you connect a trackbar with two fixed ends to a leafsprung axle, it will bind like crazy and try to prevent the axle from moving the way it needs to. My guess is that ultimately you will just end up tearing the mounts off the trackbar....

That shackle setup on the first picture allows for the front-to-back movement and still offers the resistance (up and down) to prevent the axlewrap.


....it's somewhat hard to describe in words. The bottom line is that the yellow pic is GOOD, the black pic is BAD.

To ad to Greg, when using option 1. You need to set it up so the shackle is 90 degrees to the traction bar which helps ensure that the axle does not wrap and allows full movement of the axle front and back. I made mine with the first design and it works great. Make sure you use a johnny joint to allow for some twisting movement as well.

 

[Zeus33rd]

The idea of the traction bar is to allow the axle to swing in it's natural arc pivoting on the front hanger, but not allow the housing to twist on the springs. Keeps your pinion pointed at the same place throughout suspension travel. After getting mine all installed I noticed an immediate change on the first test drive. On hard acceleration the truck just kinda squated down and took off like a shot compared to before. The rear just planted itself and went. The power was all goin to the wheels and not to twisting the springs into an "s" shape. Trac bar helped ALOT with soft/long 63" springs.

I made mine alot like seschev3's-

Poly busings at the axles ends and the bottom of the shackle. A 2" Jonny Joint at the top of the shackle. After a couple hard runs the Jonny Joint has almost blown it's guts out. The snap rings couldn't hold the joint together under all the stress and poped out, allowing the bushing to walk out and get mangled to death. To those lookin to fab one of these things, I'd suggest using something other than a JJ. An RE joint maybe. JJ's are almost impossible to get together, took me close to an hour to get mine together, and it only lasted 3 trips. I do drive hard and don't baby things, so maybe 4 trips for the average guy. A bigger JJ might have helped too, but would still be difficult to assemble.

Another thing I have to add is, if you decide to copy my idea for a mount, rather than use a conventional full x-member, be sure to gusset the hell out of it. On my last run to Fordyce, the mount on mine (2x2x.250 wall tube) got bent up a good 2" tearing the back of the spring hanger apart partially. The tube didn't bend, just tore the back of the spring hanger apart.

 

[ntsqd]

It is possible to make a two ends fixed type traction bar not bind most leaf spring suspensions. It's also not worth the work to do it when the shackle type works better for twist.
I would advise against the frame mount being cantilevered off just one side. Even if you have to go up and over the driveshaft, make it grab both frame rails.