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Traction bar with lift blocks?

Phil513

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So I have been pondering putting a shackle flip on the Blazer. I hesitate a bit, because I'm not real crazy about the way it moves the wheel forward in the wheelwell. I have read that sometimes things need to be shimmed to get the pinion angle back where it should be. One guy (I think he had a DIY4X kit) had the slip yoke banging into the transfer case, he had to shorten the driveshaft.

So, I was kinda thinking, what if I left my 4" blocks in, and added a traction bar. Would that solve most of the downsides of the lift blocks (basically, spring wrap)?

Or should I just carry on with the shackle flip?
 
Depends on what you use the truck for in all reality....but I still think shackle flip is far better no matter what. Better ride quality, better flex, ect. I didn't notice the tire being further forward in the wheel well when I swapped from 4" blocks to a 4" shackle flip, but I have seen some applications where it looks like that. With the blocks, you still run the risk of breaking the blocks entirely (has happened, quite a bit when using the truck other than just driving around on the road).

If what is truly holding you back from shackle flip is tire placement in wheel well and driveshaft angles, just do a 2 1/2" shackle flip, with a zero rate AND a degree shim, plus throw a little longer shackle on there that is beefed up (like a 5" of 6" shackle). You will get the overall ride height you want, keep your driveshaft angle happy, be able to put your axle where you want with the EZ inch, and have all the benefits of the shackle flip. Probably be into it the same amount, maybe just a little bit more than going with the 4" shackle flip....just an idea I guess
 
Oh, and to answer your other question, yes if you went with wrap bar with blocks, it will no matter what reduce axle wrap, but I still think in the long run you will be happier with a shackle flip.....then build a traction bar :thumb:
 
Simply put


Yes.

There are still other issues such as the block shifting, the block cracking, increased reliability on u bolts.

None of these are huge issues. You can still flex well with a tension style shackle
 
Thanks guys, I'll keep thinking about it. I want to do one or the other before Blazer Bash.
 
Come over and look at my suburban. I'm running a DIY4X shackle flip
 
So I have been pondering putting a shackle flip on the Blazer. I hesitate a bit, because I'm not real crazy about the way it moves the wheel forward in the wheelwell. I have read that sometimes things need to be shimmed to get the pinion angle back where it should be. One guy (I think he had a DIY4X kit) had the slip yoke banging into the transfer case, he had to shorten the driveshaft.

So, I was kinda thinking, what if I left my 4" blocks in, and added a traction bar. Would that solve most of the downsides of the lift blocks (basically, spring wrap)?

Or should I just carry on with the shackle flip?

The thing is... the factory tension shackle has the rear springs sloping. So the blocks are actually moving the axle backwards from stock. With the shackle flip a STOCK rear spring is almost flat. With stock springs and no blocks, the flip only moves the axle forward 1/4" or so (from stock). It's with lift springs that the flip moves the axle more like 1" forward. With a stock driveshaft, the slight forward movement helps compensate for the lift.

Big degree shims are only required for running single-cardan driveshafts with a shackle flip. A lifted Blazer is really happier with a C/V joint back there and the shackle flip actually lines things up pretty close for that. With 4" lift and stock driveshaft the U-joints need replacement rather often. With a C/V shaft, they last almost like a stock application.
 
Back in the day, they made traction bars that also lifted the truck. I've seen more refined versions of these on some newer lifted Diesel trucks.

I've lifted 2 K5's with shackle flips (one ORD and 1 DIY4x) both vibrated bad and both ended up getting a double CV rear driveshaft (the same driveshaft found its way into both trucks)
 
Back in the day, they made traction bars that also lifted the truck. I've seen more refined versions of these on some newer lifted Diesel trucks.

I've lifted 2 K5's with shackle flips (one ORD and 1 DIY4x) both vibrated bad and both ended up getting a double CV rear driveshaft (the same driveshaft found its way into both trucks)

I guess that's another thing that makes me a bit nervous. It can run 75 on the freeway all day right now with no vibrations. I'm scared I fiddle around and screw it up. lol
 
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