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Traction bars with leaf springs

D

dcell152

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Sep 23, 2004
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Nothern Maine
What is the easiest way to put traction bars on a K5 with leaf springs. I have read if you use latter bars you have to useshackels at both ends of the spring. How hard is this to do, how bad is the flex affected? What is the best way to go? Any one have pics?
:k5: My 350 is well built; 30 over, 2.02 heads, headers, Elderbrock carb & intake. It has some power.I'm in the proses of buying a 6 inch lift, either Alcan springs, BDS, or Tuff Country. I've been told I will have a proublm with axel rap:dunno:

Ryan
 
It works exceptionally well, but isn't being made anymore. Pricing when it was being made was $875 or so...

Rene
 
where would I get a kit at? I cant aford any thing like that. How hard would it be to fab one like the tube one?

Thanks
Ryan
 
I doubt you will need traction bars. Depending on what "2.02" heads and cam profile you are using but if the heads are iron and your cam isn't huge than you are probably making about the same amount of power as me and I don't have any issues, even with a 4" block.
 
The heads are Sportsman 2, iron, the cam is an Extream Energy. I cant rember the profile. I was told the Alcan springs are really soft and would proulby need some thing to keep it from twisting. I cant find any one who sells BDS mail order. I dont live near a dealer.
 
rjfguitar said:
I doubt you will need traction bars. Depending on what "2.02" heads and cam profile you are using but if the heads are iron and your cam isn't huge than you are probably making about the same amount of power as me and I don't have any issues, even with a 4" block.
Click to expand...
With 4" blocks and stock springs I had bad axle wrap. Did a shackle flip and went with 57" rears...worse axle wrap. Now I have Alcans going under it but the anti-wrap bar will control wrap.

A less visually appealing anti-wrap device can be made at home using the info in this thread alone (design wise) but you'll need a welder and some other tools and the ability to use them.

An alternative is to contact Steve at Missourri OffRoad (his nick here is 85M1009) and see what he can set you up with and how much it'd cost.

Rene
 
Thanks guys!!! I have a welder and about every thing else I think I'd need. With the help of my grand father. I think we could make it work. There is no substute for experince, and he's quite a bit. I think I'll chech with Steve to.

Ryan
 
The one that Rene is talking about is $275 I believe, If you have the tools they are pretty easy to make and I found the jonny joints for $40 which is a good price.
 
and my big problem is that I dont have much room for the bars since I have dual exhaust that runs pretty close to the drive shaft, so just plan it out and you should be fine.
 
Tim (Tim84K10) made a version of that on his truck. I believe he said it works good but you'd have to ask him to be sure
 
It's better than nothing, but still a fundamentally poor design IMO.

Picture that set-up without the leaf springs, there is no triangulation without them. So, that design relies on the strength of the front half of the leaf spring to work. If you run modified spring clamps then all the triangulation and stress is on the main leaf.

The upper link looks short enough to describe a different arc of motion than the axle would normally have during cycling of the suspension too.

My two cents...

Rene
 
sorry for the hijack but would it be ok to use square tubing instead of round for the links and just go with a pretty thick wall?? It is kind of hard to get round tubing around here for a good price.
 
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