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Traction Bars

k20

k20

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 9, 2001
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Location
Mineral Springs, NC
Yeh I know, beat to death topic, but with the unfortunate close of M.O.O., my plan to buy a wrap zapper is gone. Ive found 2 more antiwrap bars. Superlift makes their "Super-trac" series for these trucks, and Tuff Country makes their "Ladder Bars" too. The Super-tracs look to be around $220 for everything, the TC's around 320, and for reference, I believe the wrap zapper was 420.

I was wondering if anyone had ever used these systems on their trucks with a 14ff, and how they worked, did they fit, or were they universal fit.

This page has em both shown, http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/tractionbars.htm

The Tuff countrys look more substantial (cant get the nice superlifts for anything this old) but I dont know how low they would hang, which is why I liked the wrap zapper because it was over the axle.

Thanks guys.
 
I've got the Superlift Trac-bars on my '86. They were a pain to mount, because the bar attaches to the spring plate and then to another point on the frame. Superlift includes a bracket (or they did when I bought them about 3 years ago) that is supposed to mount to a point on the frame forward of the axle. The only problem is that this point...doesn't exist. I had to fab up something to mount the front, but it wasn't too hard. The other fault I'd have would be not having dual heim joints. It would be nice to be able to dial in the pre load without having to unhook the bar, flex/droop the spring and then reattach the bar. But maybe I'm splitting hairs here. They're very stout and have never given me problems. Hope this helps, and here's a pic of how I rigged them up.

tracbar.jpg
 
Well those styles of bars may help axlewrap some, they have a hard time eliminating all axle wrap, can cause the suspension to bind and therefore reduce travel, and can lead to spring fatigue. To eliminate rotation of the axlehousing you have to have the housing restrained in two places. Those bars obviously only have one restraining point and thus relies on the spring for the second point. Also if the length of the bar doesn't travel in exactly the same arc (during suspension travel the axle does not travel perfectly straight up and down) as the axle it will cause binding, either reducing suspension travel or causing stress to the springs.
 
Thanks guys, I dont know what Im gonna do, but I do know I need to do somethin, I been puttin it off ever since I swapped in the big block, but now after gettin the truck back from paint, I seem to have more of an urge to push the gas a little harder, something I hadnt been doing cause I knew I had bad axle wrap. I mean, come on, the back of the truck bouncing and hoppin pullin out of the neighborhood, sheesh. I have to do somethin.

Anyone know any other manufacturers?
 
what is your rear suspension set up? I wanna go up about 3 or 4 inches, but don't want a bunch of axle wrap... What is less likely to hop, lift springs, or shackle flip?
 
That sams bar looks kinda like the tuff country one, you know of any pics of one installed on a truck, or if there standard length bar is correct. I am :confused: when it comes to figuring this kinda stuff out. I do know if its too short, it would be like a pole on the suspension lol.


78 Suburban, Im not sure which would cause more wrap, I havent dealt with a shackle flip. I do know that my bds springs like to wrap.
 
I'm going to go with a "tim bar" style trac bar on my rig.... linkys to info...

linky 1

that one is on a jeep... take the same design at the diff end and add a MOO wrapper zapper tube part that goes to the frame and thats pretty much what I want to build. Here's another pic...

2592rearhad2.jpg


j
 
the superlift style does limit articulation right? it looks like it would. i guess ive been lucky, ive never had any axle wrap.
 
The "timbar" was first referred to as the bambar. It is a simple and effective idea, it works too. It does make for an enormouns amount of antisquat though. That is the last thing I want when off camber and full of traction.
 
It's funny you mention articulation... I run pretty much all Superlift parts on mine (12" springs, shocks, trac bar) Before purchasing the lift, I called Superlift to make sure my tires would clear, and used a phrase something like "I just want to make sure that I won't have any rub at full articulation." The guy actually started laughing and said that articulation was a four-letter word around there.

I finally realized that here in Central Florida, where I'm approximately 15 feet above sea level, articulation really isn't all that important to me, either, and went with the Superlift.

So I guess that's a long way of saying that, yes, the Superlift setup probably does limit articulation, but I really can't say because my rig's pretty damn stiff to begin with.
 
Here's mine-
P1010132.jpg

P1010131.jpg

P1010129.jpg

P1010127.jpg


I modeled it after the Sams Off-Road bar. Only issues I've had are with the Johhny Joint at the top, and the mounting point off the backside of the spring hanger. The JJ blew it's guts out within 2 runs. Gonna try a Rubicon Express joint next. And I bent the hell out of the mounting point area. Shoulda built one that went from frame rail to frame rail.
 
jekbrown said:
I'm going to go with a "tim bar" style trac bar on my rig.... linkys to info...

linky 1

that one is on a jeep... take the same design at the diff end and add a MOO wrapper zapper tube part that goes to the frame and thats pretty much what I want to build. Here's another pic...

2592rearhad2.jpg


j
Click to expand...
I'm probably gonna get flamed for this, but WTF. That setup looks terrible. Those welds are something less than good. Why not build a mount that uses the bearing retainer bolts and the rear cover bolts instead of welding to the housing??? That thing looks like it would beat the hell outta the bottom of the truck, waaaaay too tall.
 
I posted that pic just as a design example, not an example of good fab skills. ;) Besides, it ain't my rig so don't blame me. :grin:

As far as the anti-squat issues go... is there a way to modify the design so its not as much of a problem?

j
 
jekbrown said:
As far as the anti-squat issues go... is there a way to modify the design so its not as much of a problem?

j
Click to expand...

Yes. The shorter you make it the less downward force it will have. Tim's upper pivot is a good 5" above the lower one. If you can get them within 1-2" of each other it can help. Either way you are still 8" above the axle centerline (tim's is about 12") and that makes for larger anti-squat to begin with.
 
with that bambar/timbar how will it cause more antisquat? can someone explain it for me?
 
What about DIY's wrapbar setup?????? that's what i'm gonna use looks good and stout and the price is ok too
 
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