trading my 1/2 ton 6 lug axles for 8 lug D44/14FF, have questions?

[rdn2blazer]

My best buds brother-in-law has a truck he wants to dump, he used the 75' reg and 350/465/NP205, he wants it gone but offered me the 3/4 ton axles in trade for my 1/2 ton axles so he can still move it to get it hauled off. My burb is a 89' with a 700R. We need to do a swap and Im wondering what parts do I need to get it bolted up and drivable? I think he said it has 4.10's in it. I have a really tall gear in my burb now so that will help a ton.

I get the set of rims and tires thats on it, he gets my pitted eagle alloy type 15 inch Aluminum wheels rims. Im going to have to sell the 15 in. Truxxis MT's I have on it now or trade them or something, there like 95% good tread. I want to run a 17 X 8 rim/tire combo.


I have to look at the transfer case to see what out put drive I have, I dont remember. Should need just drive shafts, U-joints, possible CV-joint??


Steering components....I dont know what I'le need, ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

since you have the whole truck for parts; you should only need a conversion u-joint on the rear. front axle is a dana 44; basically the same as your front 10 bolt. steering will be the same. the spring perches will be in the right place on the rear axle since it is off a 3/4 ton. may have to do some moving and adjusting on the e-brake cables.
your rear output on the t-case is a slip yoke on your 89, while it is a fixed yoke on the older truck. on the front output, the 89 is a flange while the 75 is probably a yoke. i would go ahead and keep the driveshafts just for parts and perhaps to make spares later on.
you can also get 15 inch 8 lug wheels if you want to run your 15 inch tires.

 

[jor]

Yea, like Jeff said, it's pretty much of a direct bolt on but the e-brake deal can be troublesome. I put an older 3/4 ton setup on my 87 Suburban and ended up having to get different backing plates to get it to work right. The red arrow is the older style. Good luck.
jor

 

[TDAWG1]

Like They Said And Man What A Score

 

[rdn2blazer]

Thanks for the help guys, I will get pics up when we do the swap.

 

[K-5 Bomber]

One other thing you may face: You may need to have your drive shaft shortened. I took the one from the donor truck (it was beefier) and needed to have it shortened due to the pinion length on the 14BFF. Also had it balanced at the same time. Took some injinuity (sp?) to adapt the E-brake cables, but they work. Also, check the spindle surfaces on the 14. Mine had grooves worn in it under the oil seal. I had to get a speedi sleeve, which I sealed with some orange RTV. That also required that I build a special driver (section of pipe with a cross bar tack welded to the end as a striking surface). Good luck- you'll appreciate the stronger diff.

 

[rdn2blazer]

I will take anything he will give me as far as parts. I hope the drive shafts are still there. I will probably do a disc swap while Im at it. Im getting quite the 14FF collection. This will make 5 complete. I dont know how I keep aquireing these but I just cant pass up a free 14FF's . Its not actually free, Im trading, but I have got 2 free ones so far.

 

[Mudstud]

A 14 bolt housing is less then .5" longer (pinion wise from center line of axle) then a 12 bolt. I would grab the Master Cylinder and maybe the prop valve too. I never had good brakes running my 14 bolt with disc and a 44 up front. They work great now with 4 wheel disc. You might ought to see if you can locate a free set of blown 10 bolts or something to put under his. Sell your good stuff and reclaim, err, get some money for them. Take your shafts and lock outs out if you do the swap.