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Trailer from scratch, input.

Stomis

Stomis

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I need to build myself a basic car trailer. Im going minimalist for this one as I anticipate needing to make a beefier one down the road. This trailer just need to haul a standard car. No insane monstrous trucks or anything like that.

My plan so far was 2x4 box perimeter frame 75in x 14ft flat deck and 2 ft beaver tail. Now I know this is plenty for a tandem 3500lb axle trailer. Where Im falling short in experience is with the ribbing to properly support the deck. I plan on decking it with treated 2x8. Initially I was wanting to do 2x2 angle 3/16s thick 1ft on center. The idea behind 2x2 was to keep the deck flush or just below the exterior frame. But now Im sitting here pondering it and wondering if 2x2 is tall enough for the span, but at the same time the weight is all going to be within 1ft of each side, its never going to be point loaded in the center.

Plus Im also wondering if 1ft on center is over kill and if I can go to 16in or even 24.

Input please?
 
Buy one. It's actually cheaper unless you have it all laying around. I built a 16' tandem axle a few years back and I had $1500 in it even though I started with the axles, bare wheels, and 3/4 of the frame material laying around. A 16' prebuilt car tralier can be had used around here for $1000-1500. Wish I had searched first and saved time.
 
shady said:
Buy one. It's actually cheaper unless you have it all laying around. I built a 16' tandem axle a few years back and I had $1500 in it even though I started with the axles, bare wheels, and 3/4 of the frame material laying around. A 16' prebuilt car tralier can be had used around here for $1000-1500. Wish I had searched first and saved time.
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not here... anything sub $2200 is junk. I don't want something I have to worry about. My maths says I'll be all in $1500 for a $3200 msrp trailer...
 
don't skimp on tires! Also include at least one spare, and keep em covered from the sun.

my 7000lb car hauler was similar in construction but it did have 2x3 tubing crossmembers and the tongue angled back all the way to the side frame rails (many don't) even though you THINK you won't haul anything in the middle, go the extra and "overbuild" it if you can. Single axle brakes and 3500lb axles are good behind a decently outfitted tow vehicle. Put tie down anchors in the deck as well as the outer perimeter. A weather tight box to keep tie downs, block, etc in is handy as well.
I also am a firm believer in equalizing bars and sway control.
 
I would find out in your state is this possible anymore to do, i know here its not so easy. I know someone who went thru a mess and ended up selling it as is. Has to go to a special inspection station and has to be beyond perfect for them to ok it. Make sure you check into what it takes to have all of that so you don't go thru all the trouble. On a side note i know pj trailers weren't real expensive and are decent, new ones are 25-2700 for an 18ft. That's an 8k trailer with a front rail for a winch, tie down spots all up the sides,16 ft with 2 foot beaver tail, ramps in the side, removeable diamond plate fenders, brake safety box, etc. Real nice for the price, bigger and smaller versions too.
 
rob h said:
I would find out in your state is this possible anymore to do, i know here its not so easy. I know someone who went thru a mess and ended up selling it as is. Has to go to a special inspection station and has to be beyond perfect for them to ok it. Make sure you check into what it takes to have all of that so you don't go thru all the trouble. On a side note i know pj trailers weren't real expensive and are decent, new ones are 25-2700 for an 18ft. That's an 8k trailer with a front rail for a winch, tie down spots all up the sides,16 ft with 2 foot beaver tail, ramps in the side, removeable diamond plate fenders, brake safety box, etc. Real nice for the price, bigger and smaller versions too.
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Yeah self construction is perfectly fine here.



So anybody with any insight on the crossmember question?
 
I'd do every 18"- 2 feet, but make like every third one the same size as the out side rails
 
So couple of thoughts. Have you priced out 5k axles vs 3500?

5k axles are usually 6 lug and it sounds like the trailer will be strong enough to handle them. I know it adds some initial cost but when I was pricing it out it was about 350 bucks more.

As far as the xmembers go every 16" should be plenty. I think the 2x2 3/16 angle is exactly right. Remember flat side forward so they don't load up with crap.

Trailers is pretty much the same advise as welders, air compressors, plasma cutter, buy the biggest you can afford. Or the most weight capacity.

I'd also cruise classified adds for the axles.
 
blazinzuk said:
So couple of thoughts. Have you priced out 5k axles vs 3500?

5k axles are usually 6 lug and it sounds like the trailer will be strong enough to handle them. I know it adds some initial cost but when I was pricing it out it was about 350 bucks more.

As far as the xmembers go every 16" should be plenty. I think the 2x2 3/16 angle is exactly right. Remember flat side forward so they don't load up with crap.

Trailers is pretty much the same advise as welders, air compressors, plasma cutter, buy the biggest you can afford. Or the most weight capacity.

I'd also cruise classified adds for the axles.
Click to expand...
I think I would be looking at $750 for axles instead of $500. I'm also thinking a 2x4 frame is overkill for a 7000 lb trailer now. I've browsed some 16 ft trailers that were full 2x2 angle construction except the tongue portion. I'm not gonna cheap out but like you're saying I don't want to put 3500 lb axles under a 10 or 12k frame.
 
My 7000 lb trailer has like 4" angle or so for the tongue. (Channel is the better way). I'd also do channel for the crossmembers if it was me. Like 2" or 3" maybe. Definitely don't skimp on anything cuz you will always end up hauling heavier stuff.
 
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