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Tranny cooler lines

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shoeless

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Anybody know where I can get new, pre-bent tranny cooler lines for an '88 K5? I busted one of mine, and I think that helped contribute to the demise of my 700r4. I'd bend my own, but I have not been able to find a flaring tool that actually works(without calling the Snap On guy, $$) I know somebody makes them, we used to get them for the tranny conversions we did on Postal vehicles at the shop I used to work at.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Shoeless
'88 K5
 
how did the line bust? You can get a little piece of high pressure rubber tubing and make a joint. Cut out the ragged ends, stick them in tubing, smack some tubing clamps on it and good to go .... $4.
 
NAPA sells a decent flaring tool for steel lines. I think it was about $35. I've seen pre-bent lines but I suffer from CRS (can't remember sh!t). You might want to try classic tubes but I bet they are expensive. I'd use the hose trick or cut and replace the bad section with a new piece of tube once you get the flaring tool.
 
i just use brake line, am i crazy? its already pre flangedwith fittings and any auto store has it.

Tork DSR
"look ma, i can make the dog pee white...."
aol screen name TorkDSR
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.torkpig.homestead.com>http://www.torkpig.homestead.com</a>
 
Brake line is what I use. Just get the little bender tool and route it where you want it...

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
Most of the parts stores around here will rent/loan you a flaring tool. When I swapped my 700R4 in I didn't like the routing of my lines (nearly touching the exhaust). For a short term fix I used high pressure wrapped rubber line (similar to what you use to hook up a tranny cooler) until I get the exhaust re-done. A short piece and a couple hose clamps might work. Come to think of it, not a bad thing to throw into the toolbox when I'm wheeling.
 
I think either a rock got caught in between the line and driveshaft, or somehow the drive shaft hit it. Either way it was crushed. This happened over a year ago. I fixed it with some rubber tranny cooler line and hose clamps, but it has come undone about three times, no matter how hard I tighten it. It took about a gallon of ATF to refill it each time. I tried using the brake lines, but could never get the length right, so I had to cut and flare, but the tool that we had did not flare at all. But Napa has a good one? I might try again if I can get a cheap flaring tool that works.

Shoeless
'88 K5
 
WRT the rubber line coming loose - fixing one in the field we just flared the tube out with a flat bladed screwdriver so the hose and clamp had something to clamp up against. not pretty, but got home
 
I used a small piece of rubber hose to join two pieces of tranny line together. Hose ruptured and sprayed the tranny fluid directly on the exhaust manifold. Lucky the car didn't catch on fire. It wasn't just vacuum hose either, it was fuel line. Perhaps high pressure fuel hose would have worked better, but theres just too much chance for failure with rubber, thats why the factory didn't use it in most cases, where it wasn't necessary.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
I'm not 100% sure what kind of rubber line I used. Got it from a tranny shop, it's wrapped outside with some sort of tape. Same stuff came with my tranny cooler to plumb it from the radiator. I didn't ever worry about it rupturing (until now) on the cooler, what do you think, hard lines to the tranny cooler as well?
 
If you could run hard lines to the cooler, I would, but more often than not, you can't. It's far enough from engine heat that it won't affect the rubber, but the fluid itself is hot and isn't good on rubber AFAIK. I believe they now make a specific transmission hose, which might be a good choice for any short sections that really have to be rubber.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
I have a set from Classic Tube - but I ended up not needing them. Mine are for an 86 - check their website and if it is the same part, I'll sell you mine for 60% of their price plus shipping. They have not been installed and are NEW.

Chris

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
So I says to him, I said, "get your own monkey."
1986 K5, 350 GM Crate, 700R4, NP208
 
I have to call classic tube back tomorrow, and ask for part numbers. I called today, no listing for an '88 K5, so I said ok, an '87. He said, that he had a listing for a K10 with a 700r4, but the was some sort of note, that they would not fit a K5. Why they wouldn't fit I have no idea, as far as I know they are the same(between K5 &amp; K10), but he is supposed to check it out, and I'm going to call him tomorrow. I'll also ask if the '86 lines are the same thing, if they are then I would like to buy yours, 1986blazer. Are yours stainless or not? Do the lines come up on the passenger side of the radiator on your truck? Also, is your a/c comp on the driver's side with the lines running into the passenger side of the condenser? That's how my K5 is laid out.
I'll let you know about part numbers after I call them back tomorrow.

Thanks,

Shoeless
'88 K5
 
seems like throwing money away to not use brake line. it's already flared, practically unkinkable and cheap. if its too long just wrap the excess around a screw driver. its that easy

Tork DSR
"look ma, i can make the dog pee white...."
aol screen name TorkDSR
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.torkpig.homestead.com>http://www.torkpig.homestead.com</a>
 
On my K30 with TH400, I got 2 brake lines that were almost exactly the right length. No cutting at all. Just got a tape measure and, with my son's help, routed it roughly the path I wanted to run the lines. Then, got the next size longer lines. After I got them bent (Napa tool) the lower was perfect and the upper had to be bent back a little from the tank and then forward (it was about 2" too long). No cutting, looks nice, already flared.

Don't remember the lengths but that is the way to go IMHO.

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
I had to get one of the lines replaced on a '77K10 a few years back. I was working for a farmer then, and just went to the local implement dealer and had them cut and put ends on some hydraulic line about the same inside diameter. It was plenty strong enough since it was designed for constant high pressure/high temp use. Don't remember cost, but wasn't much. If you wanted to, it would be an good time to add an external tranny filter for the really small crud floating around.
 
All the specs you listed are the same as mine. The lines are steel, not stainless and they are identical to the factory lines. Let me know when you get the part number.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
So I says to him, I said, "get your own monkey."
1986 K5, 350 GM Crate, 700R4, NP208
 
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