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Transfer case cooler
- Thread starter nedceifus
- Start date
You'd need to add a pump to do it.
Why do you say it's hot? Any idea why?
Why do you say it's hot? Any idea why?
Not that I'm saying it's necessary, but I believe this would fit:
https://torqueking.com/product/661015/qk1015-filter-and-double-cooler-kit-for-manual-transmissions/
What temp is "can't hold your hand on it"? Not to be snarky, but I know that can be a rule of thumb for coolant temps too.
I tested my 465's fluid temp, it was 210*. I didn't put my hand on the case, but I have to believe it assumes the same temp, and that's way too hot for a hand. That cast iron retains heat like no ones business...starting at roughly 100* on flat ground for an hour, easy cruising, once it hit 210* after climbing steep grades for long periods, it never lost noticeable heat, even after the exact same one hour return trip with easy cruising.
https://torqueking.com/product/661015/qk1015-filter-and-double-cooler-kit-for-manual-transmissions/
What temp is "can't hold your hand on it"? Not to be snarky, but I know that can be a rule of thumb for coolant temps too.
I tested my 465's fluid temp, it was 210*. I didn't put my hand on the case, but I have to believe it assumes the same temp, and that's way too hot for a hand. That cast iron retains heat like no ones business...starting at roughly 100* on flat ground for an hour, easy cruising, once it hit 210* after climbing steep grades for long periods, it never lost noticeable heat, even after the exact same one hour return trip with easy cruising.
Several years back I remember going through this, temps by hand are a tough deal but I want to say that on average a person doesn't like touching things that are in the 120 degree range, and hard to touch is 140ish. Burning skin in a brief time (think engine block or radiator) is in the 180-190 range. I think the old trick of spitting on your finger and wiping it across a hot surface shows 220 or so if it sizzles.
That being said, we've run a 203/205 setup for HOURS on end in 115 degree air temps with no cooling and no issues. If your running dino blood oils still you may need to change the oil on more regular intervals but if your using a synthetic oil your not going to have heat issues typically speaking.
Too hot to touch isn't all that hot usually in the oil world. Engine oil likes to be in the 200 to 220 range for normal temps for instance. Amsoil stuff is usually good to north of 300 in the gear oils etc.
That being said, we've run a 203/205 setup for HOURS on end in 115 degree air temps with no cooling and no issues. If your running dino blood oils still you may need to change the oil on more regular intervals but if your using a synthetic oil your not going to have heat issues typically speaking.
Too hot to touch isn't all that hot usually in the oil world. Engine oil likes to be in the 200 to 220 range for normal temps for instance. Amsoil stuff is usually good to north of 300 in the gear oils etc.
The NP242AMG in a Humvee uses a coil submerged in the fluid in the case and passes transmission fluid through it before the transmission to cool it.
That's how they get a 11,500lb rating from basically the same t-case they used in 6cyl Jeep Grand Cherokees.
I've wanted to add the selector from the NP242J to a NP242AMG to get 2wd and swap one into my K2500 for a while to get the AWD for snow/ice. Just can't find the spare $$.
That's how they get a 11,500lb rating from basically the same t-case they used in 6cyl Jeep Grand Cherokees.
I've wanted to add the selector from the NP242J to a NP242AMG to get 2wd and swap one into my K2500 for a while to get the AWD for snow/ice. Just can't find the spare $$.
I've told this story before.......
Back in the old Compuserve days, I was working with a guy who regularly hauled a large horse trailer over some mountains. He was running a one ton Ford, still in warranty.
The Ford dealer had rebuilt his rear end twice, and the third time, replaced it entirely as one unit. Problem was, he would get about half way across, and start seeing smoke because the oil in the rear end had gotten so hot it was boiling out the vent.
He would pull over, let it cool, and go on. But, a few trips like that, and he would start got get bearing noise and it was time for a rebuild.
I was talking him through installing an electric temp gauge so he could watch his oil temp in real time, and pull over and let it cool before it got too hot.
One of the guys on the forum kept suggesting changing to Amsoil. This was back when synthetics were new, and we all were suspicious of them.
The temp gauge pretty much solved the problem, but now he had to stop several times per trip. Finally the Amsoil guy, who was a dealer, offered to send him enough gear lube to replace his oil for free.
About a month or so later, my friend posted up that he was still using the gauge I had helped him with, but had no had to stop since changing oil.
It just never got too hot anymore.
My '79 F150 had bare metal floorboards, and an NP205. After a hard run on the highway with 12.50-33s, I could feel the heat coming up through the floor.
I tried to check the oil once after a run, but, like you, did not want to touch the casing. Not sure if it would have blistered me, but I did not want to experiment.
After the rear end report, I hunted around and finally found some Amsoil. This was probably 1980 or so. As a result, I could not tell you the weight, but it was gear lube, not ATF. Probably 75W90, or something close.
After the same run, same weather, I could lay my hand on the case. It was not cool by any means, nor all that comfortable, but I could hold it there.
After that, I switched all oils to Amsoil. And have been running it since.
Does it cut down on friction? No doubt. Does it save gas? Technically it pretty much has to. The heat you feel is created by the torque of the engine being converted to heat instead of motion. Less heat, more efficient driving. Does it save enough gas to pay for its self or even be noticeable? Almost certainly not.
So, why do I run it? I don't mind doing mods or improvements to my vehicles, but I hate replacing worn out parts. My '89 F250 is 30 years old, has over 300K on it, and has had no lubed parts wear out.
The engine was replaced at 200K, but still had 35lbs of oil pressure at idle, good compression on all cylinders, and used no oil.
But, a new water pump seized up at speed, snapped the shaft, and the heavy fan took out the radiator, bottom rad hose, and dumped all the coolant out in seconds.
I stopped in less than a minute, but with no water, the block just sat there cooking even though it was not running.
After that, I started getting coolant into two adjacent cylinders. Tried a gasket, no luck, so I cut my losses and went with a reman.
Before I tried to rig a cooler for your transfer case, I would grab either one of the instant reading meat thermometers, or an IR gun and check the temp after a fast run.
Then change to a good name synthetic and check again. I like Amsoil, but there are others.
Be warned, there may be another theory out there about the cooler temps.
I was on another forum a year or so, and a guy was having problems with his rear end temps. I suggested Amsoil, and another guy chimed in.
He said it would ruin the bearings and gears in his rear end due to heat if he went synthetic. I had to ask, if it ran cooler, how did the hardware get too hot?
He said that the cooler case was not due to the gears and bearing running cooler, instead the synthetic oil would not transfer heat like regular oil. Thus the case got cooler since the oil never transferred the heat from the gears and bearings. As a result, they would get hotter and hotter until they failed...........
Since this would require the oil to have the insulating properties of something like Styrofoam, I decided it would not be a good use of my time to continue to converse with this person......
Back in the old Compuserve days, I was working with a guy who regularly hauled a large horse trailer over some mountains. He was running a one ton Ford, still in warranty.
The Ford dealer had rebuilt his rear end twice, and the third time, replaced it entirely as one unit. Problem was, he would get about half way across, and start seeing smoke because the oil in the rear end had gotten so hot it was boiling out the vent.
He would pull over, let it cool, and go on. But, a few trips like that, and he would start got get bearing noise and it was time for a rebuild.
I was talking him through installing an electric temp gauge so he could watch his oil temp in real time, and pull over and let it cool before it got too hot.
One of the guys on the forum kept suggesting changing to Amsoil. This was back when synthetics were new, and we all were suspicious of them.
The temp gauge pretty much solved the problem, but now he had to stop several times per trip. Finally the Amsoil guy, who was a dealer, offered to send him enough gear lube to replace his oil for free.
About a month or so later, my friend posted up that he was still using the gauge I had helped him with, but had no had to stop since changing oil.
It just never got too hot anymore.
My '79 F150 had bare metal floorboards, and an NP205. After a hard run on the highway with 12.50-33s, I could feel the heat coming up through the floor.
I tried to check the oil once after a run, but, like you, did not want to touch the casing. Not sure if it would have blistered me, but I did not want to experiment.
After the rear end report, I hunted around and finally found some Amsoil. This was probably 1980 or so. As a result, I could not tell you the weight, but it was gear lube, not ATF. Probably 75W90, or something close.
After the same run, same weather, I could lay my hand on the case. It was not cool by any means, nor all that comfortable, but I could hold it there.
After that, I switched all oils to Amsoil. And have been running it since.
Does it cut down on friction? No doubt. Does it save gas? Technically it pretty much has to. The heat you feel is created by the torque of the engine being converted to heat instead of motion. Less heat, more efficient driving. Does it save enough gas to pay for its self or even be noticeable? Almost certainly not.
So, why do I run it? I don't mind doing mods or improvements to my vehicles, but I hate replacing worn out parts. My '89 F250 is 30 years old, has over 300K on it, and has had no lubed parts wear out.
The engine was replaced at 200K, but still had 35lbs of oil pressure at idle, good compression on all cylinders, and used no oil.
But, a new water pump seized up at speed, snapped the shaft, and the heavy fan took out the radiator, bottom rad hose, and dumped all the coolant out in seconds.
I stopped in less than a minute, but with no water, the block just sat there cooking even though it was not running.
After that, I started getting coolant into two adjacent cylinders. Tried a gasket, no luck, so I cut my losses and went with a reman.
Before I tried to rig a cooler for your transfer case, I would grab either one of the instant reading meat thermometers, or an IR gun and check the temp after a fast run.
Then change to a good name synthetic and check again. I like Amsoil, but there are others.
Be warned, there may be another theory out there about the cooler temps.
I was on another forum a year or so, and a guy was having problems with his rear end temps. I suggested Amsoil, and another guy chimed in.
He said it would ruin the bearings and gears in his rear end due to heat if he went synthetic. I had to ask, if it ran cooler, how did the hardware get too hot?
He said that the cooler case was not due to the gears and bearing running cooler, instead the synthetic oil would not transfer heat like regular oil. Thus the case got cooler since the oil never transferred the heat from the gears and bearings. As a result, they would get hotter and hotter until they failed...........
Since this would require the oil to have the insulating properties of something like Styrofoam, I decided it would not be a good use of my time to continue to converse with this person......
Does your Chevy have dual exhaust that is routed next to the transfer cases?
It was on this site a while ago, but a guy did an nv4500 build and he added those extruded aluminum PTO cover extensions for added capacity and he also tapped them for AN or NPT fittings and added an electric oil pump and a cooler as well. It was a pretty neat set up I thought about running something similar in my NP205, but then again heat has never been an issue for me.
