On my 87 K5 there are spacers between the frame and crossmember. Not sure there suppose to be there. Can anyone look at picture and give me a answer?
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Transfer case crossmember?
- Thread starter brans87
- Start date
On my 87 K5 there are spacers between the frame and crossmember. Not sure there suppose to be there. Can anyone look at picture and give me a answer?
They should be on the inside of the frame. Someone has attempted to lower the tcase but it makes the front shaft angle worse and could damage the frame.
those are a bandaid fix for those looking to improve the rear u-joint geometry. Most remove them before they damage the frame.
The spacers are there for better clamping force. That being said it needs to be inside the frame.
Ok will remove them and put them on inside of frame as stated they need to be.
H20 Toie
1/2 ton status
Don't be surprised if you get a vibration after putting them back.
you probably have a 4" lift and that use to be the way to help with the angle
you probably have a 4" lift and that use to be the way to help with the angle
all points said are correct .
bolt up or down with crossmember flat against frame .
spacer tubes in inside frame rail were you cant see them . sitting down on frame rail .
this is the correct way to install them .
it lets a longer bolt get used for better clamping force over a shorter bolt.
bolt up or down with crossmember flat against frame .
spacer tubes in inside frame rail were you cant see them . sitting down on frame rail .
this is the correct way to install them .
it lets a longer bolt get used for better clamping force over a shorter bolt.
Replace with some 1x1x6" square tube if you get some vibrations. That way you spread out the load along the frame. It would be better against the frame but spacing it down isnt a horrible thing after a lift kit.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Shimming the axle 2-4* is a much less horrible idea. And it takes about the same time. And is the 100% correct bonified way of doing it.
"Momma says he's bonafide..." "He's a suitor!".............sorry.
Yeah, shim it to win it.
Yeah, shim it to win it.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Actually the 100% correct way is to cut and reweld the perches. I forget who it was but someone posted pics of their shims breaking and letting the rear axle shift backwards on a gravel road last year.
Found it. Looks like it was more than a few yrs ago ...
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/check-your-u-bolts.316885/
only shims I like are solid steel . the aluminum just don't hold for truck real world use.
and yes if able to cut/weld that's also best in the end.
don't forget with dana 60 front you need 3 shims . the extra is for the top plate to sit flat and hold the u-bolt washers and bolts flat .
and yes if able to cut/weld that's also best in the end.
don't forget with dana 60 front you need 3 shims . the extra is for the top plate to sit flat and hold the u-bolt washers and bolts flat .
Got no lift yet and 10 bolt in front.
I can only swap it around correctly and see how it drives at this point.
I can only swap it around correctly and see how it drives at this point.
lol
no lift kit AND it's spaced down, WTF? why haha
no lift kit AND it's spaced down, WTF? why haha
CrpMag122
1/2 ton status
Mine was the same way before I lifted it, can't for the life of me figure out why. Mine is a CUCV, so needless to say there have been a few things I have found on mine that has left me scratching my head.
