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Transfer case drop

fouronereason

fouronereason

1/2 ton status
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Sep 2, 2009
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Location
colorado springs, co
Well, I got my six inch and I guess I'm one of the unlucky. I just recently changed my 350/203 to a 465/205 and just like before, I'm getting this grinding noise at about 45 or 50 mph. I know it's the rear driveline angle, I know they make a 1 inch drop kit, but has anyone done 1 1/2 inch drop. I'm askin cause I have 1 1/2 inch square stock in the garage and figure I could buy longer grade 8 bolts and save myself some money:dunno:
 
don't quite understand your last post about clearance, but you should be fine with a 1.5" drop if you don't car about ground clearance. However, if it was me, and I already had a 3" body lift, I would clock the transfercase and then drop it if you need to. That way the unit is out of the way except for that 1.5" drop. IMO, but that's my style of driving.

Edit: because of the angle of the engine vs. firewall, got it
 
why not do it the right way and correct the back angles, or go to a cv...
 
if you have a non-cv shaft you want the angle at the pinion and t-case equal....

if you have a cv shaft THEN you want it pointed at the t-case...

both of those ways you want the pinion pointed down a degree or 2 to allow for torque...



dropping the t-case is a bandaid fix... it makes your front angle worse..

you clock a t-case (rotate it up or down) by using a clocking ring...
 
I guess its the band-aid fix for now, really don't think my wife is gonna let me spend that much more money, just spent about 800 on it in the last 2 weeks
 
Try shimming your pinion down 4 degrees and see how that works for you. It might be enough to get the vibes to mellow out some. Then maybe a 1/2" to 1" TC drop if things improved but not 100%.

I ran similar lift, same tranny Tcase with a 1/2" drop on the TC. No vibes at all, and there isn't any excuse for vibes with that tranny/T-case combo because it gives you the longest rear driveshaft possible in a K5. ~ 45" if I remember right. A CV shaft is nice, but I didn't feel I needed it.

Double check the condition of the U-joints too.

Rene
 
fouronereason said:
How would I correct the angle at the t case? the pinion is already pointed at the t case so that angle is good.

And what is clocking the t case?
Click to expand...

Yes if you have a standard UJ shaft and your pinion is that high, you are much better off dropping the pinion angle then dropping the t-case. You are probably just going to create clearance issues with your front driveshaft.
 
I'll find out tomorrow about the front shaft, getting it lenghtened, if it creates a clearence promblem not sure what to do. If I drop the pinion angle down wont that create a steeper angle at the tcase?
 
It's not the steep u-joint angle, it's the difference in angle between the t-case and axle.

Basically it works like this...

You have your rear axle pinion pointed up at the t-case, this makes that u-joint run with little to no angle. Basically a straight line from pinion to t-case.

While your t-case output is pointed to, lets say, the rear bumper and the shaft angles down to get to the rear axle. This makes that u-joint turn at an angle.

2 u-joints working at different angles will vibrate. If you point the pinion back down, both u-joints will be working at angles, essentially cancelling out each others oscillations. You following me here?

If you wanted to keep your pinion angle up at the t-case you would need a CV joint at the t-case for smooth operation. So, for now, drop the pinion down to equalize the u-joint working angles.
 
Is there a certain car or truck to get a cv style drive shaft out of that will bolt up or do you just have to buy one from a vendor?
 
when I had a 6" lift, mine was binding, I dropped the t-case 1", add a rear shim. Still wasnt perfect. My d-shaft needed lengthening so I added a CV which gave me the extras length and cured the vibes
 
Not sure about a vehicle to get one out of, but locally they said it would cost roughly 400 bucks to make a cv d shaft for me, I told them I would just replace u joints when needed!! But I dropped my t case 1 1/4" and it took bout 90% of my problem away, gonna try to shim the A$$ end see what happens!

Oh Yea, I dont have any clearence issues w/ the front d shaft either
 
I have a 4" lift and welded my spring perches with my pinion almost pointing at my tc. I had one hell of a bad vibe. I dropped my case 1" inch and now I don't have any vibes at all. I would like to be able to put my tc back in the stock location but, I would have to do the slip yoke eliminator kit and a cv style shaft correct?
 
might as well do the SYE if your getting a shaft made..

but you need to have the pinion pointed at the t-case.... might be able to shim ithe pinion up, depending on how far down it's pointed, or better yet, weld new perches on in the right position....
 
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